My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

[87gtVIC]

Yay. That’s the HO stick I gave you in there? Hope you figure out your lifter tick issue and have some fun whipping it around. I would hope you notice a difference.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Yay. That’s the HO stick I gave you in there? Hope you figure out your lifter tick issue and have some fun whipping it around. I would hope you notice a difference.

Yessir, that’s the one.

I’m really hoping I just shimmed a rocker wrong. Where it sounds like the noise is coming from is where I used a large shim that Crane states is the equivalent of a full turn. They stated that 20 ft/lbs should be attained between 1/4 to 1 turn of the torque wrench. I’ll see what’s up next week.

[87gtVIC]

I have no clue about pedestal mount rockers with their shims and such. I only dealt with the stud mounts on my twisted wedge heads. I found many ways people adjust theirs..many different ways I should emphasis. Again. Hope its a simple fix.

[Brown_Muscle]

What brand lifters did you buy? I’ve heard of issues with aftermarket lifters.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

What brand lifters did you buy? I’ve heard of issues with aftermarket lifters.

They’re the stock lifters. I was tired when I shot that video and said lifter, but I think I meant to say rocker. I’m hoping that’s the case, otherwise, the intake is coming back off.

[gadget73]

The official blessed procedural way is to measure preload with a dial indicator. Its not hard exactly, just f'n irritating to get the indicator set up exactly so to see what its doing.

real world, if you get it to zero lash, then tighten the pedestal bolt between 1/2 and 1 turn from zero lash to torque, the preload is fine. More than 1 1/4 and the valve hangs open, under 1/4 and it clatters like a bastard.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Went home and snatched the upper intake off again and removed the valve covers and spent some quality time double checking everything. I definitely over-shimmed cylinder 6's exhaust valve. Had like a 1/4 worth of turn before clicking off on the torque wrench. Shame on me for reading only the first sheet in the box, as the second supplemental that went with it explained that on a pedestal type for Fords 1/2 to 1 turn was necessary at zero lash. The first page I read was that they recommended at least 1/4 to 1-1/4 of a turn. Whoops. Anyway, fixed that, and it shut right up! No collapsed lifter here, just set too loose.

Went to take it for a test drive, and found all the power steering fluid leaked out while the reservoir was tilted, so I had to grab some Type F from the store before I took it out. Unplanned fluid change? Probably not the worst thing to do for it. Anyway, I do need to adjust base idle a touch, since it's idling around 800-850 in park and about 650 in drive. Just a bit high, and I don't want to strain stuff. I also need to make a slight TV cable adjustment since things have shifted slightly, as I'm noticing O/D is coming on with light throttle closer to 45 vs 50 where I had it. NBD, it's not clunking so bad going to O/D for the time being. It's not engaging excessively early, as the slowest I could get it to go in with the smallest amount of throttle was about 43, and I was putzing to get it there.


As far as the driving goes, it's just like everyone says, which is a meh start, and then fun times. Really reminds me of a nPI Aero with a 2.73 taking off. Not an exciting start, but once it gets wound up, it just keeps going. Needless to say, I did the AOD-shuffle a few times and had no issues getting up to 80 with little fuss, and the engine definitely had the spirit to keep going, but I figured going to jail was not a smart idea. It's considerably nicer being able to keep winding the engine past 4K without it just promptly falling on its face. Even just driving normally it feels so much more competent. I just need to get the HO shift governor for the AOD so I'm not getting kneecapped when getting on the accelerator.

Regarding the Mark VII computer I'm using, despite coming from an LSC that was utilizing the E6 HO setup, I couldn't hear any pinging under load or while at WOT, so I assume it's cool working with the E7 heads.

[gadget73]

Ported lower intake really helps the bottom end, more than I'd have ever believed if I hadn't experienced it first hand. My black Mark VII has a Holley Systemax 1 that uses the stock upper and it really made a difference, but a properly ported lower will do the same thing. Mostly it evens out the airflow so all 8 make the same power. Stock the front corner cyls are choked more by the intake than the head design. #5 especially is bad.

What gears do you have in that thing anyway?

[Kodachrome Wolf]

What gears do you have in that thing anyway?

3.27 open.

[87gtVIC]

Awesome to hear. Happy for you.

An alternative is the transgo hi rev kit if you cannot source an HO governor.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Hopefully I didn't fry the AOD...




One of the cooler line connectors started leaking profusely on my drive home tonight, and not much was amiss when it happened. I guess it failed while I was on the interstate. When I got off at my exit, I got a mild slip starting from the stop light but shifted normally for about another half mile. While waiting at the light prior to my house, started smelling ATF. It took off fine, but when I slowed and got back on the accelerator, it slipped before engaging. I managed the last quarter-mile home and popped the hood to smoke. The lower fitting on the transmission was dripping onto the converter and the undercarriage is coated in ATF to the rear bumper. Dipstick is dry with the car off, so fluid level is dangerously low.

The closest fitting I can find is Dorman 800-608, but it's not listed as correct for this car, but fits AODs up until '85??



Very aggravating. Unless there's another fitting type I should be looking for, I'll get one of those tomorrow, a disconnect tool, and enough Mercon V to get things going again.

[87gtVIC]

You should be fine.


Happened to my car twice ten plus years ago.

Popped off at the radiator cooler and destroyed my brake pads on the drivers side.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

You should be fine.


Happened to my car twice ten plus years ago.

Popped off at the radiator cooler and destroyed my brake pads on the drivers side.

Overall, I believe your outlook on things is right.

The quick disconnect wasn't grabbing the line anymore and it pulled out easily without a tool. I used a Dorman 800-608 fitting, which works fine for our stuff (despite several places saying: Nope, that ain't it). The first one I got, the plastic clip inside broke when I tried inserting the line. The second one I got worked fine. The AOD took on about 3.5 quarts of Mercon V before getting into the hatched area on the dipstick.

I took it on a short highway and in-town circuit. Seems to be shifting normally. No slipping between gears, no lurchy starts. Shift points seem to be fine, O/D comes on still at 43 MPH with no throttle. I'll monitor for leaks or any changes in shifting behavior.

[gadget73]

There are basically 2 different quick connect fittings, difference is line size. 5/16 or 3/8" I think. One fits, the other obviously doesn't. The listings are kind of screwed up on those things. I keep one on hand and when I use it I just take the empty package to the parts store and do a "gimme one of these".

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Figured a small update might be worthwhile...

Haven't had any issues after fixing the fitting on the transmission, still going good. No troubles with the HO swap thus far, very fun to wind the engine up given its motivation. A/C has been solid so far in this heat, but it kills the gas mileage, gets about 13-14 straight city MPG right now. I'll take the comfort though.


Barring the dent I've been putting off rectifying for two years, I did get something "new" for the tailgate that'll swap to the donor one.



Georgia upped the age limit for running a "year of manufacture" tag from 1970 to 1989. I can now run my 1983-1989 plate since it has a 1987 sticker on it. All I have to do is keep a signed affidavit from my tag office and the originally issued tag in the car, and I can use the old. Costs nothing for me, especially considering if one wants a "Hobby/Antique Automobile" tag (has a Model T on it, then alphanumeric), you're gonna pay extra for the manufacturing (one time), and an extra yearly "special plate" fee, on top of your $20 for the sticker. Plus, I think a period correct plate looks cooler, even if it's not the most visually exciting thing.

Nick said once he's back down from his travels in NY, the old Country Squire tailgate is going on here. I think I'll start working on getting it cleaned up for install. I know I want to replace the dew wipe so that it's not going to scratch the glass. As I've said before I'm going to "attempt" to get colors similar to what's on the car so it's close-ish. There's no matching fade at the present state.