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Saved from the Demo Derby: 1990 Country Squire
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Looks nice. What brand of paint did you use ? Maybe I missed something but why is the front clip off ?
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I'm digging what I see. That paint looks like it went down smooth. Gloss in the roof and side looks great!
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Three coats of base. Only two coats of clear. It looked fine so I quit while I was ahead. No plans to cut and buff.
3 Photos
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Did the jambs and window frames. With the glass still in the doors and the interior still in the car, this seemed like the best way. Lots of masking, however.
This probably sounds crazy but there is a decent mental game going on while painting after the first coat over primer. Have to remember where you've been and not, since you can't see a difference really. There are a lot of edges in the door jambs to forget or cover twice accidentally. This way lets me focus on those areas and not worry about the rest of the car.
I really like the base I am using. Southern Polyurethanes makes it. Lays now so nicely I think my nine year old kid could do it. Covers nicely as well.
The new while absolutely blows away the old white in brightness. I hope it's not too bright.2 Photos
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Originally posted by 87gtVIC View PostLooking good. I wish I was local to lend you a hand. Fun stuff…. Well once it’s done it’s all fun. The process is long and tedious but gratifying once complete.
On my Mercedes one day blasts I noticed my primer shrinking back more so then I would have liked.
When I recently repainted my front bumper I upped the grit to 400 before primer and allowed the primer to dry two hot days before wet sanding out and painting as opposed to 320 grit scratch and only allowing 5 hours to dry before wet sanding.
its stuff you really have to look for but I know its there on some of the panels.
if you do have the chance to let the primer sit for a week or two before blocking out I’d definitely do it.
On a side note, an old timer told me that if your paint shrinks down and you start to see sanding marks several days or weeks later, you have good adhesion! So there's a perk for ya when you see those little places.
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Looking good. I wish I was local to lend you a hand. Fun stuff…. Well once it’s done it’s all fun. The process is long and tedious but gratifying once complete.
On my Mercedes one day blasts I noticed my primer shrinking back more so then I would have liked.
When I recently repainted my front bumper I upped the grit to 400 before primer and allowed the primer to dry two hot days before wet sanding out and painting as opposed to 320 grit scratch and only allowing 5 hours to dry before wet sanding.
its stuff you really have to look for but I know its there on some of the panels.
if you do have the chance to let the primer sit for a week or two before blocking out I’d definitely do it.Last edited by 87gtVIC; 06-26-2024, 04:53 PM.
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Filler work is mostly, if not all, done. Should have grabbed some close up pics.
Scuffed this with 180 and the DA today. That was a weird process because dull white paint makes it hard to see where you have sanded it well, or when it needs more. Also scuffed the door jambs with a red scotch Brite... found myself wishing this was a two door instead of a five door.
Hope to mask the jambs and glass tomorrow and get it clean. Then epoxy hopefully Thursday morning. Want to do it outside but have a short window of time in the morning before the sun starts baking it. Inside the garage is an option (and will be used for the base and clear) but I have to clean, move everything out, and cover up what remains.2 Photos
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I am with you on the filler over the epoxy. That is how I have prepped some spare doors for the future of my car if needed. I was just curious about the dry time required before applying filler on top of it.
I used Eastwoods epoxy primer and that took a number of days to dry.
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Tailgate reinstall with definitely be a two man job! Going to put some epoxy primer on all that patch today and start some body filler tomorrow.
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Woof, having done tailgate R&R, that is not a fun job at all even with two people, especially trying to get it hung again and accounting for slop in the hinge assembly.
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