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Saved from the Demo Derby: 1990 Country Squire

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  • VicCrownVic
    replied
    Those lights look so much better. I need to do the same on The Scab.
    I know there are some differences between the parking brake setup on my pre '90 Panthers but don't recall what those differences were. If I remember I'll try to look the cable this weekend on The Scab.
    I don't recall that large nut at the top of the shock body on The Ice Car, and I'm pretty sure those were original. If they're still in the shed at my parents' place I'll have to take a look next time.

    Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
    ...
    Then adjusted the transmission gear selector linkage. It was loose. Much better shifter feel. Don’t have to go to 1 to get OD and don’t skip reverse any more.
    ...
    Hmm, sounds like The Ice Car, but I gave up on it. I tried following my shop manual but just couldn't seem to get it and figured it had something to do with the '89 trans. I swapped the linkage. I was only able to shift into 1, D, OD and maybe N with the '89 linkage. P, R, N, and OD is all I get with the '91 linkage. Figuring I messed up the cable by hooking it up with the '89 linkage, I ordered a new cable but got the same result. I have a spare shift cable now.

    Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
    ...
    Next up baby rear sway bar install. Had to drill the two holes. Used a 15/32 bit. Not as bad as I figured. I suppose I could install an Aero P71 or HPP rear bar on this machine if I find one. Then install both... food for thought.
    ...
    Hmm, I know they mount different, but do they not occupy the same space in at least some areas? Double sway bars would be a neat option for the '90-'91 boxes if that's possible.

    Also, I haven't forgotten about those lug nuts. I think last week was the first time I made it to a JY this year and I found none of that type.

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  • 87gtVIC
    replied
    New to car headlights really make the front end shine.

    Leave a comment:


  • JeffBoudah
    replied
    Dude, i just did the rear shocks on this 84 and it was a PITA even with no rear axle or gas tank under it. Coming at it them from inboard, still horrid.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tiggie
    replied
    Did some stuff to this today.

    Washed it (carport life = bird poop).

    New to this car headlights, junkyard finds. Low beams are Sylvania “Performance” and highs are typical Sylvania “halogen”.
    Before


    After


    This one fell part upon touching it.


    Almost put 91 clears in but decided that would ruin the 1990 character.

    Then replaced an exhaust hanger isolator. Needed two which I didn’t realize until I got under there. Will have to get another to complete the job, but one is doing it for now.


    Do you 90-91 owners have a spring for the parking brake in this area? My 88 does. I think this may be my parking brake problem. Used a drum brake spring. It didn’t do well - stretched too much upon application of the brake.


    Next up new to this car shocks. Newish Gabriel Ultras I pulled from the junkyard a while back. The first one sucked, like an hour an a half of struggle. Then I realized there was a nut on the top of the body of the shock. So the next one came out in three minutes easy peasy. These were original, with a 1990 part number. I don’t know if the earlier cars had them or not. I don’t remember my 82 having these when I pulled the original shocks. Certainly handy if your car has these.


    Anti seize everything.


    Then adjusted the transmission gear selector linkage. It was loose. Much better shifter feel. Don’t have to go to 1 to get OD and don’t skip reverse any more.

    Next up baby rear sway bar install. Had to drill the two holes. Used a 15/32 bit. Not as bad as I figured. I suppose I could install an Aero P71 or HPP rear bar on this machine if I find one. Then install both... food for thought.


    Busy day.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    If you do end up pulling that pedal assembly out, would you mind letting me know how different it is to standard box e-brake pedals? I've halfass thought of converting mine to a newer style so I could use common off the shelf parking brake cables with the rear disc swap. Not like I actually use the parking brake ever.

    Leave a comment:


  • slack
    replied
    I had a similar issue with my '91 GMQ. The parking brake would tighten up when you pressed the pedal in but wouldn't slack all the way back out. One time it got completely jammed up when I was parked on a hill and ended up just having to cut the parking brake cable under the car to get it to let go. Even after doing that, my pedal portion was still jammed up so something must have been stuck on that side? Unfortunately I never really dug into what was broken about it. I drove the car with the sheared e-brake until the end.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tiggie
    replied
    Got my Chilton manual out since I don’t have a Ford manual for the 90.

    To get the parking brake mechanism out on an 89-, it’s five easy steps. On the 90+, it’s 13 steps, including loosening the dash and pulling it back. F-word that.

    The 90+ is adjusting in the mechanism. There is an adjustment procedure to follow for a new mechanism. I will try that first.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Tiggie
    replied
    Finally a break though on the brakes lol.

    Drove it this afternoon. Flawless brakes. Set the parking brake and let it off, and the problem was back!

    It has to do with the parking brake mechanism, which apparently has a self adjustment in the 90+ design from what I can tell. I can tug on the parking brake cable under the car and loosen the brakes up. They are fine until you use the parking brake. Each click of the parking brake mechanism results in tightening the cable. Letting it up, either manually or with the vacuum auto release, does not allow the cable to loosen. You can push the parking brake again, upon which it continues to tighten the cable. Release - and again no loosening of the cable. The rear brakes are very tight at this point with the brake released. On the third parking brake use, the cable is already tight, tightens slightly, and upon release, releases back to just being tight. The cable seems to move freely manually and isn’t rusty.

    I’m going to attempt to pull the mechanism out tomorrow and take a look at what’s up with it. If there is something that engages/disengages the self adjustment, it is not working...

    Anyone play with one of these 90+ mechanisms before. Looks quite different from the one in my 88.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tiggie
    replied
    I am concerned it’s holding too much residual pressure.

    Truck parts don’t fit. The part that screws into the master cylinder is a much larger size on the truck. Possible I could do a truck master cylinder conversion...

    The original valve seemed fine when I had it out. Moves in and out freely. The truck version seems to function the same.

    Still need to check to see if the shoes are backwards.

    Leave a comment:


  • sxcpotatoes
    replied
    Originally posted by jaywish View Post
    They also provided a residual pressure function. Calipers actuate faster than drums so the drum half of the system is kept under pressure so it actuates faster.
    Yep, when I was gathering parts for my stalled '62 Willys Jeep project, I ended up getting some one-way in-line valves which retain 5 or 10 or 15 psi (I forget the precise number) in the brake hoses up by the drums or whatever to keep the 4 drum brakes closer to engagement. I learned to drive stick on my brother's '79 F-250 w/300-six. Stopping that beast with 4 drums when driving in today's traffic required a lot of advanced planning and filling out a request in triplicate. Especially when my car went down and I had to borrow it for a month, in the snow.

    Leave a comment:


  • jaywish
    replied
    They also provided a residual pressure function. Calipers actuate faster than drums so the drum half of the system is kept under pressure so it actuates faster.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tiggie
    replied
    Haven’t done anything else to the car since that requires time and a yard that isn’t a swamp (currently artic swamp with a foot of snow).
    Been researching though.
    No boxes at the local junkyard. Was looking for one of those valve things to screw into the master cylinder. Found one on a 1994ish F150. Decided to try to find some interchange information.
    1988-91 boxes uses E8AZ-2B257-A. It is called a “brake pressure differential valve assembly”. Not available new from anywhere so it seems.
    The 1989-97 F-Series uses a F8UZ-2C161-AA. It is called “brake master cylinder fluid control valve”. Available new most anywhere (Amazon, eBay, Ford, etc).
    I’m hoping they have the same function.

    Stolen from http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/man...j/stj69b03.htm
    The brake pressure control valve regulates the hydraulic pressure in the rear brake system. It is located between the rear brake system's inlet and outlet ports in the main valve. When the brake pedal (2455) is applied, the full brake fluid pressure passes through the brake pressure control valve to the rear brake system until the valve's split point is reached. Above its split point, the brake pressure control valve begins to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes, creating a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels to minimize rear wheel lock-up during hard braking.In case of the front brake system malfunction, the brake master cylinder fluid control valve has a bypass feature, which allows full hydraulic pressure to the rear brake system.

    I will likely swap the used F150 valve on in the next couple days but won’t be able to test results for several weeks while, if, the swamp dries out a bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    lots of pedal travel would go with the adjusters backed out. The parking brake actuates from the bottom too, so the shoes being backwards wouldn't bother it.

    curiosity test, does it act the same in reverse? If its a shoe issue I'd expect different behavior that way.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tiggie
    replied
    I will pull the wheels to check the the shoes. I put them back as I found them but someone had did the brakes before the car entered its stationary slumber in 2008, and could have put them back wrong.

    It does have the valve in the master cylinder with no other proportioning valve. When I cleaned the valve, there was a small plastic restrictor in there that moved around loosely. Not spring loaded or anything. Been meaning to pull one from a junkyard car to compare. And swap into this car to see if it made a a difference.

    The parking brake cable was plenty loose. The parking brake does work normally and requires quite a bit of parking brake pedal travel.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    the rear brake shoes aren't on backwards are they? There is a front and a back shoe, and if you reverse them the brakes are prone to lockup. The front shoe has a shorter strip of friction material.


    If its mechanically right, only other thought is the prop valve is bad. I think 90 has the one screwed into the side of the MC instead of the block on the frame, but if it were not reducing pressure to the back you'd get these problems.

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