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My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB
idler arm was easy. The metal sleeve seized to the center link. Just knocked it open at the slit and applied some heat and it came off.
the pitman arm was a struggle. Pitman arm did not want to feer itself from the center link whatsoever.
Eventually I smartened up and put a tie rod popper tool on the joint and let it sit for a half hour. Came back and one gentle smack of the hammer it popped loose.
Pulling the pitman arm off the splined shaft of the steering box was easy. No issue there.
All pieces replaced had a little bit of play in them hence the replacement.
You're inspiring me to go through my steering mechanicals while I'm swapping to this Volvo/FoMoCo electric power steering pump...
Thank you.
I am going to replace all the inner/outer and adjusting sleeves...maybe centerlink too? in some time myself. The stuff is so old, some boots cracked and such BUT has no play. It bothers me so damn much though how ugly some of the parts are so they are going in the trash when I muster up the funds for new items.
I do the alignments myself so its no big deal setting the toe again BUT it is not fun chasing a straight steering wheel when done.
Its all done in my back yard with long acre toe plates and quick trick turn plates.
I cant bring myself to have the car worked on by others.
Id have to look into that. Uneducated me says that there is no way that would provide a solid/play free mounting solution while adjusting toe. My usual method was setting toe to spec. Drive car around to see steering wheel position rinse repeat...a process to say the least especially considering both adjusting sleeves needing to be adjusted in sync so as not to throw off the toe setting.
When I pulled the lopo out of the CV, I noticed that the idler arm had no boot on it. When I took it off, the balljoint just flopped around. I'm curious to see if that made any difference with the steering; and if it was one of the many rattles under that car.
Id have to look into that. Uneducated me says that there is no way that would provide a solid/play free mounting solution while adjusting toe. My usual method was setting toe to spec. Drive car around to see steering wheel position rinse repeat...a process to say the least especially considering both adjusting sleeves needing to be adjusted in sync so as not to throw off the toe setting.
If the tool is available I can't see why it wouldn't work as I have seen shops use it to a perfect result. Holds the steering wheel straight and then simply adjust the tie rods. Let us know how you progress.
What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo
took her around the neighborhood this afternoon and ripped a couple 1-2 burnies! Running like a champ.
definitely have to get her up to highway speeds and just stomp on the brake pedal a couple of times. Sitting in the backyard all winter ain’t the best for the rotor surfaces. After that I will have to clean up the wheels as the black wheels turn gold from all the brake dust/rust being smoked off. Well for now…..
First cruise of 2023. All is well. Hit up a bunch of Long Island. Cross Island, Long Island expressway, sagtikos parkway, southern state, northern state, Robert Moses cousway, meadowbrook parkways and Whitestone expressway.
got back a little before 6:30 am and then washed up with optimum no rinse and a p&s bead maker top coat. So happy.
What piece are you using as a hood ornament substitute?
It is a stock base, JB welded the void. Body worked smooth with filler, primed, painted with some silver metallic paint (to match the stock 1979 rear license plate panel) and 2k cleared.
I would love to run the hood ornament but the car sits under a car cover all the time. Not only would the cover get ripped, but the cover could actually make the stock hood ornament move around and potentially gouge up the header panel.
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