1993 F-150 Flare Side

[DerekTheGreat]

Seems to run OK and it's certainly advancing the timing. With the 350 TBI General Motors stuff I have, it's obvious when that isn't happening. If those don't detect knock at all with five minutes or so, they do a self test by advancing the timing as much as possible until it sees knock. If it doesn't, it sets a code and then disables ignition advance, transforming the vehicle into a sloth.

MCU? Would that be the abbreviation for the VV crap 351's?

EDIT: Dug around the 1992 service manuals for 351 equipped E/F 150's. '92 E-van service manual mentions a knock sensor, but the component diagrams do not list it or it's location. More digging to commence at later time.

Lovin' this truck though. Angie works from home today and she offered me the snoozer-cruiser Tahoe. "Nah!"

[gadget73]

I think its Master Control Unit but its the bullshit box that makes the emissions junk work on a VV setup. I think its technically EEC-II. I'm told you can unplug it and it still runs so its not doing anything all that critical.

[DerekTheGreat]

Ah. We have lots of products with "fluff" in them so we can get specific patents. I see that's not restricted to just chemistry.

So the plot thickens. Over at that Ford Trucks website [ECM which one? HELP, Number dummy? - Page 8 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)], someone stated this:

Z2D1 is for 302, so your codes are correct.
have a look on the driver side a-pillar post when door is open ,half way up windshield ,see if there is a four letter sticker there.

For what it's worth and hopefully you can decode it, here's my calibration sticker:


The Z2D1 ECM is the one I'm using, which according to that EEC-IV database we have here breaks down as "5.8 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50 SD-Bank." So I'm a bit baffled, but that database was wrong before which resulted in me essentially wasting $100. Being that I'm seeing code 225, it might indeed be for a 5.0. One thing that doesn't fit, however, is the IAC valve. Remember the BS surrounding that and the 5.8 specific unit? Yeah, the IAC will only function with the supposed 5.8 specific IAC valve. I think I'm learning, but am mostly confused.

EDIT: Those guys hooked me up with this website: All Computer Resources : Auto Computer Experts

You can search by that four or three digit code in addition to the part number listed on the ECM and it will show the applications. From that, I learned the other ECM is also for 5.0, which would explain why there was no difference in how the truck ran with either ECM. Shit, which ECM should we be after??

[VicCrownVic]

My guess is F2TZ-12A650-CB, A2Z1 will work for you.

[DerekTheGreat]

Sweet, that's a start. How about this one?:

F2TF-12A650-CC

Problem with that one site is it doesn't tell me what trans the ECM is set up for...

[VicCrownVic]

F2TF-12A650-CC, A2Z2 seems to be more likely what you need. I'm not sure if A2Z1 would support your trans.

[gadget73]

well if thats a 5.0 ECM and the 5.0 normally has a knock sensor, that would explain why its got the knock sensor code on an engine that doesn't have one.

[DerekTheGreat]

Thanks, Vic. There's one on eBay right now, but I was supposed to go junkyarding this weekend to pluck one from a suitable truck. Didn't happen.

I doubt putting a correct ECM in will correct the strange vibration issue the engine has, as it does it throughout that RPM band affected, acceleration or deceleration. I'm convinced that if it was related to fuel delivery, it wouldn't do it on deceleration, or that it would be reduced significantly. So that leads me to ponder this:

What would happen if you used a torque converter from a 302 on a 351? Are they even interchangeable? Wondering if I've got some weird balance issue.

[VicCrownVic]

Looks like if this post is correct: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16743131
F2TF-12A650-CC replaced F2TF-12A650-CA & F2TF-12A650-CB for 5.8 with E4OD, so looks like any of the 3 will do, I just didn't see any reference to trans on CA or CB when I searched on Friday.

I'm not sure if I'm misremembering but I thought I saw some info somewhere about the flexplate being balanced different.
Actually, this post seems to confirm that: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4403182
So I would lean toward the flexplate rather than the torque converter.

[DerekTheGreat]

Flexplate, right. I'm not the brightest crayon in the box. Wonder if that's something I can verify with the inspection cover of the trans off? Also, if it had a 302 flexplate on it, would a 351 starter work with it? That's what I put on it and there are zero issues with it. (Edit: Yes, based on the one link Vic provided, the flex plates only differ in balance, so the same starter can be used.)

Thanks, Vic!

[gadget73]

diameter wise and tooth count wise they are probably the same, but the weights will be different. Its welded on, can possibly see it through the inspection cover but without something to compare it to I don't know that its obvious which flexplate it is. 28oz vs 50oz imbalance though so the weight on the 302 one will be larger. The balancers are different too, though they also probably physically interchange.


looking at some pics online, it looks like the 302 one has both a weight and a window opposite the weight, the 351 one has just the weight. thats aftermarket stuff though, won't swear OE Ford is identical.

[Tiggie]

I think a 50oz flexplate on a 28oz engine gives absurd vibes all the time. It's worth checking out but I suspect you'd know it already.

[DerekTheGreat]

diameter wise and tooth count wise they are probably the same, but the weights will be different. Its welded on, can possibly see it through the inspection cover but without something to compare it to I don't know that its obvious which flexplate it is. 28oz vs 50oz imbalance though so the weight on the 302 one will be larger. The balancers are different too, though they also probably physically interchange.


looking at some pics online, it looks like the 302 one has both a weight and a window opposite the weight, the 351 one has just the weight. thats aftermarket stuff though, won't swear OE Ford is identical.

Thank you for diggin' around for me. Hmm, so perhaps I'll dig through photos too, seems like 351 stuff doesn't have windows.

I think a 50oz flexplate on a 28oz engine gives absurd vibes all the time. It's worth checking out but I suspect you'd know it already.

As would I. I've researched a bit about the wrong balancer or flexplate being used and the posts I've come across describe the vibration as being so bad they felt the engine would self-destruct. Our truck? It's gotten better since we worked on it and since we've been driving it. Coming up on 600 miles with it. I bet most folks wouldn't even care about the vibration at this point. I can't tell if it's balance, mechanical and/or fuel delivery related though. It does seem to require more throttle effort when cruising through the range affected, especially at the top of that range, which is around 1,400 rpm and about 45 mph. I can feel it either stuttering or just the vibration, can't tell what it is as it's so minor. For the longest time, I just thought it was the road or the tires. Get it outside the affected range- smooth as can be. I am stumped at this point, requires more brain cells to solve than I've got available.

[DerekTheGreat]

Did lotsa work on this over the weekend, or at least spent a lot of time on it.

Friday I set out to change the brake hoses, but instead ended up checking and adjusting the brakes at all four corners. Of course, the fronts aren't adjustable but without all the corrosion in those slide pins and the brackets, the pads can now float as good as they're going to float instead of stick. Pads up front are in great shape and so are the rotors. Passenger side wheel bearing was a wee bit loose, so I snugged up the castle nut just a bit. No play in any of the front end bits. Out back I discovered 98% of the braking stuff back there is new- only the star wheels and those little straps for the self adjusters were reused. Passenger side had snapped, so I robbed the brake kit I've got sitting on the shelf for my Town Car. They seemed like they were the same length, but when I put it back together, the arm sat below the star wheel, almost touching the brake shoe. Hmm. Spent time dicking with that only to add that little part to our junkyard list for Saturday. Side note: posi unit seems wasted, you can spin the one wheel independently of the other fairly easily. There's some resistance, but not much. 2nd side note is that the rear end might've been worked on. Passenger side axle seal had been leaking at some point, given the old build-up of dust & diff oil on the backing plate. Probably explains the new brakes too. 3rd note is that it's got a rear sway bar! I didn't notice before, first truck I've ever had which as one. Didn't realize they were an option.


Saturday morning rolled around and so we visited Parts Galore on 8 Mile, the first time for me in years. I remembered why I don't go there- everything I hunt for is either picked clean or trashed. There was one '94 or '95 F-250 that was supposedly dropped just days before. 351/E4OD! Yay, here comes the ECM I need! -NAH! Already gacked. Was about the only part taken at that point too. Some other guy came up while we were working off that truck and had the same idea. He said you gotta get there the same day they drop, I believe it. Just baffled that this combination is in high demand. Meanwhile, there was a '91 Mark VII with a complete 302 HO and ECM in there and had been for over a month.... Anyway, we pulled a few small things from that F-250 and I had to abandon the revised upper intake as a bolt stripped on me. I did get the throttle body though. Found another FlareSide, but nothing of value on it apart from that strap and springs from the rear brakes.

Get back home, take the driver's side back apart and put the spring in and the strap. Strap was indeed the same size, but the spring pulled at the yard was much tighter than the new one on there, so now we've got functional self-adjusters on both sides now. Yay. Adjusted the brakes, lubed the studs, mounting surfaces and slapped the wheels & "new" lug nuts on. Now they all match and are the same size, my OCD feels better. Front brakes were already de-rusted and lubricated. Cleaned up the throttle body after comparing against the 302 unit already on the truck. Bleed holes were smaller so I greenlighted all that tedious work. Probably the 3rd throttle body we've cleaned now. Before the 351 TB went on, I flushed the cooling system and put some flush stuff in there. Fired it up and let it warm up enough to pop the thermostat open & circulate the sauce. With the rubber snorkel disconnected from the air box, I noticed blow-by steadily flowing out of the air cleaner at the core support. She has reached sub choo-choo levels. WTF? Verified the PCV valve is sucking, but I'm not sure how much it should be. About a 1/2 inch from my hand and it sucks right to it like a magnet to steel. I swapped it's supply line for the larger one used by the brake booster, suction seemed to be marginally better and braking performance is no worse. Guess I don't need the revised upper TB after all. Still choo-choos. Maybe that's why the PO deleted the PCV valve, I didn't notice the blow-by before, but the upper intake was practically filled with oil when it came off. Oh well. Curb idle improved, but only by about 100 rpm, in gear didn't change. What did was IAC %, it's now got plenty of wiggle room- ~40% instead of ~4% in park, idling while hot. Barely idles with the IAC unplugged now. Small victories. Seems snappier with this TB, could be the placebo effect. Brakes seem much better now too, as does how easily it now rolls. Still runs like a scalded dog. What does the blow-by indicate? I'm assuming poor compression and eventually fouled plugs... So far, it's gone about 800 miles and has drank 1/3 qt of oil.

[Tiggie]

Rings might be cooked a little. I'd call that oil consumption okay and it runs fine, don't worry about it. Throw some plugs at it every so often.

When I bought the 68, the 302 in it fired up fine, no blow by at all in the guy's driveway. Got it home and started sorting it out and, lo, the breathers were both hooked to full vacuum. Fixed that, ran better, but had significant blow by. The floor it and you'll smell it inside type.