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    #31
    so basically- lube your hinges at every oil change

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      #32
      Originally posted by jayh View Post
      so basically- lube your hinges at every oil change
      Have been. When I got the car, I opened the rear drivers door and it barely wanted to move...I guess the old guy never drove anybody around in the back seat so he never used the door. WD40 saves the day!
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
        Have been. When I got the car, I opened the rear drivers door and it barely wanted to move...I guess the old guy never drove anybody around in the back seat so he never used the door. WD40 saves the day!
        WD-40 is great for freeing stuck, dirty parts, is that what you use to lubricate it at every oil change? If so i'd highly recommend using white lithium grease instead. It will stay where its sprayed and continue lubricating long after the WD-40 is gone
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

        Comment


          #34
          I usually hit it with WD40 whenever I think of it, which is more often than oil changes. white lithium grease, you say? Is there a particular brand or it just a generic product or..? I'll grab some tomorrow when I'm in town.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #35
            I dont have a particular brand to recommend, currently i'm using liquid wrench brand white lithium grease.
            -Phil

            sigpic

            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

            Comment


              #36
              Basically WD-40 is more of a solvent, so it cleans it up nice but wont lubricate long. I just use some of the grease I use in the front end for the tie rods etc, which also get greased every oil change.
              "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
              1985 GMC 1500

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                adjusted the striker...no big deal. i'm assuming there's no set position that is best for every car, you just have to adjust and check, adjust and check, adjust and check?

                I think someone misadjusted this one at one point, it was on way too much of an angle to seal the entire door properly.


                The striker can only be adjusted by spinning it around, right?
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #38
                  ...spinning it around? It's a striker head but it's got threads just like any bolt that thread into a welded nut inside the pillar. You unthread it to loosen it and then it's able to move around every which way.

                  Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                  You mean they'll go bad eventually? What are signs it's gone bad? It doesn't seem to close quite as tight closer to the hinge than at the rear of the door.
                  Are you saying the forward edge of the door doesn't line up with the fender as well as the trailing edge lines up with the rear door? If so, that's a hinge alignment issue, not a hinge pin or striker issue.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                    ...spinning it around? It's a striker head but it's got threads just like any bolt that thread into a welded nut inside the pillar. You unthread it to loosen it and then it's able to move around every which way.

                    As in spinning it in a circle. Is that the only direction it can move?

                    (pic stolen from 87gtvics thread about striker replacement





                    Are you saying the forward edge of the door doesn't line up with the fender as well as the trailing edge lines up with the rear door? If so, that's a hinge alignment issue, not a hinge pin or striker issue.
                    The forward edge of the door had more wiggle room between the stripping/door than at the rear edge of the door
                    Attached Files
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Disregard previous post. I didn't want to end up unscrewing it all the way in fear that I'd never get it back in (in case you haven't guessed, I'm not exactly mechanically inclined) but I loosened it even further and there's room to move it around however I wanted. 2-3mm closer at a very slightly different angle = no leaks yet.

                      Haven't had it through the pressure washer (and I don't own a hose) but we've thrown a whole lot of buckets of water at it and no leaks after this last attempt. I would jinx myself by saying it's fixed but I will say "so far so good"

                      thanks everybody
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Yes, I've guessed you're not very well versed in automotive mechanics. However, in the brief time you've been posting here I've noticed you improving quite a bit, and you're no dummy so I have no problem helping you learn. In fact, I am more than happy to provide any help I can.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                          Yes, I've guessed you're not very well versed in automotive mechanics. However, in the brief time you've been posting here I've noticed you improving quite a bit, and you're no dummy so I have no problem helping you learn. In fact, I am more than happy to provide any help I can.
                          Thanks man. I basically only know what information I've gleaned from these pages.
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                            I dont have a particular brand to recommend, currently i'm using liquid wrench brand white lithium grease.
                            Good for quieting noisy hood hinges too!

                            Comment


                              #44
                              hood hinges are supposed to squeak and groan like crazy (especially the ones with the "if it breaks someone dies from the shrapnel" springs)

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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