Got a Code Scanner for $15.

[packman]

It's an Actron code scanner. Not really sophisticated but it came with a 9 volt battery and the instruction manual. My ma's CV has a smooth idle right after it starts up, but it slows down drastically, surges, and stalls after 30 seconds upon first start-up. It'll do this until it warms up; it will stall out a few times before it warms up unless you lightly apply the throttle and then it smooths out a little. Occasionally it will run rough when it is warmed up while in drive and it will stall if you go from reverse into drive. It also has developed a kind of stutter upon the first pull off from in front of the house. Those are the symptoms of what I believe is a vacuum leak. I knew a kid with a 1970 Charger with a 413 wedge that had only three of the intake bolts tightened. It did the same thing that my ma's CV does.
I read the instructions twice and ran the tests. Here are the results......
Test One-Key on engine not running.
>I got codes 22 and 12. Code 22:"Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor or Barometric Pressure (BP) sensor-signal voltage out of specification." Code 12: "System cannot raise engine speed above normal idle." WTF the engine wasn't running, but the code 22 does somewhat confirm my vacuum leak suspicion.
Base timing read 18* +20 for ignition timing= 38 give or take 3*. Seems a little high but it passes inspection. Also the scanner gave me codes 13 and 16 for the timing test. These codes are fairly lengthy in explanation, but they have to do with engine rpm out of specification possibly because of as lean condition detected in the EGO or the Idle Speed Control (ISC) is out of specification.
Test Three-Key on and engine running.>I got codes 12, 41, 33, and 13. We already know what 12 is so I will go no further. Code 41:"Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor (EGO) voltage signal always lean (low value)-does not switch." Code 33:"EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve isn't opening.
or,
EVP or PFE sensor indicates EGR valve not seated (closed) properly." Code 13:" RPM out of specification during normal idle operation or D.C. motor doesn't follow dashpot."
So I guess I have a lot of diagnosing to do before I have this problem solved. Perhaps the scanner isn't working, but it is confirming that I got a vacuum leak somewhere within those codes. My questions are as follows: 1) Does the EGO sensor affect rpm? 2)Can the EGR valve and or the ISC be serviced or cleaned? 3)Are all of these codes an indication of a much larger problem?
I know I have some reading to do in the original engine manual for the CV and the Haynes service manual that I bought. I am going to read about servicing the above valves and possibly replacing the MAP sensor, if it can be replaced. Thanks for your time and help on this matter.
Packman

[Archangel]

EGR and IAC (ISC) valves can be removed and serviced - when you look at yer intake plenum the EGR is the big chunky thing in front of yer throttle body, and the IAC motor/valve is on the back side right next to the two massive harness connectors. EGR nuts come off with a 1/2 and a 9/16 socket, IAC bolts take 5/16 socket IIRC.

[gadget73]

EGR is probably stuck open. I'd also consider backing the timing down to 12-14 degrees initial. If the EGR has a clot of garbage in it, it will create a vacuum leak which results in pretty much every code you're getting. I'd also inspect the rest of the vacuum hoses to make sure nothing is cracked, especially those plastic lines over to the fender. If those are broken it will make the EGR stuff not work properly.

EGO indirectly affects idle but has zero effect till the engine is warmed up and goes to open loop mode. 160 degrees at the coolant temp sensor is required before it hits that point.

EGR can be cleaned, so can the idle controller. Use a round wire brush, like a battery terminal brush to clean the holes in the EGR spacer where the valve sits. They have a habit of building up carbon chunks. Also, press on the pintle of the EGR valve. it should move smoothly, but spring back. If it doesn't seem to move, or doesn't spring back, try cleaning it but consider replacing it if it won't move properly.

MAP don't usually go bad. Check the manifold vacuum before replacing it. If its low on the gauge, the MAP is working exactly as it should be, and its showing whats really going on. Cracked vacuum hose on the MAP will also produce those problems.

[86VickyLX]

If your oxygen sensor(s) are messed up, then it will thorw an EGR code. It did on mine and then I replaced them and that code went away. If there's no vacuum to the map, the car will smoke black out the tailpipe. I had no connection to it and it ran horribly and smoked black until I hooked up a hose. Those hoses are notorious for deteriorating.

[packman]

There's no smoke coming from the tailpipe (single exhaust) so it is visibly running clean. I will try to check and clean the EGR this week and see what comes of that. I will also check the ISC and see what's up with that. Thanks for the help!!
Packman

[packman]

I removed and checked the EGR valve and it seemed okay. The passages weren't blocked or carboned up really bad. The plunger moved in and sprung back out. I cleaned off the mounting surface and replaced the gasket with a Fel-Pro. While I was re-installing the EGR I managed to break the PCV hose (from the valve cover to the throttle body) so I looked around for one for about an hour and couldn't find one at any auto parts stores. I took some 3/8" copper tubing and 3/8" fuel line and made one up. This has me thinking about going back over the vacuum lines. Perhaps I missed one, my service manuals don't have any diagrams that show where the vacuum lines are. Hopefully I can locate all of them.
Tomorrow I have my ma's car, so I am going to attempt to check the ISC and see if that is working properly. Again, I don't have any specific information in any of my books so I am on my own for this one. If the ISC is clean and working, I will move onto the MAP sensor. I plan on converting to duals so the EGO sensors will be changed out anyway. Eventually I will find the problem.
Packman

[86VickyLX]

I have one of those scanners. How the hell do you do those damned test with that thing? I tried it for my 86 and it doesn't do crap. Can anybody help me? please give me some sort of procedure because I must be doing something wrong.

[packman]

First thing you need to do is to find the wiring harnesses that hook up to your scanner. On my ma's CV they are located behind the fuel vapor canister (the darkish soup can looking thing) on the drivers side fenderwell. If you have the instruction manual for the scanner it will tell you how to do four different tests that gives you information on the well being of your engine and sensors. If I can find a copy of this manual on the internet I will post it if you need it. Perhaps I can make copies of my manual and fax it or something.
Packman

[packman]

Oh yeah, there are two wiring harnesses that hook up to the scanner; a big one with three prongs and a small skinny one. They are not hooked up to anything because they are used only for diagnosis. Hope this helps.
Packman

[86VickyLX]

Yes I did exactly what the manual said. I get no codes. Is that right? Shouldn't I get like a code 11? A system pass code or something? I don't know.

[packman]

I am not sure what kind of code you'll get if everything is alright. My ma's CV was tripping all kinds of vacuum related codes. This is gonna sound stupid, but did you check the nine volt battery that goes inside of the scanner? Did the hold/test light (red light) blink or even light up? What problems are you having with your CV? Judging by the signature pic, that car looks good, that's gotta count for something.
I took the ISC out today and checked it. It didn't look bad or carboned up or anything like that. I used some Gum Cutter carb cleaner and used a quarter of the can cleaning the ISC. I went to buy a gasket for it and both places I went to said that the gaskets aren't sold separately and that I have to buy a new one. I went to my usual spot and they were out of gasket material; so I used a light coating of the blue form-a-gasket (the stuff you use on water pumps and thermostats) and screwed the ISC back on. I fired the 5.0 up and it idled smoothly without stalling, even when it went into the closed loop (which is when it would surge and stall out). I took it on a test drive and it didn't stall. It had a little bit of a lope but that smoothed out. I even came to a stop, hit the gas as to pull off, and then immediately apply the brakes (the CV really hates that) and it still didn't stall. I will wait until tomorrow when it is cold and rainy to see if it stalls or if it still runs rough. In either case I am thinking of bringing the CV to a mechanic who will perform a motor vac (that's what they call it) to have the intake and its components purged and cleaned. Now that it appears to be running smoothly (knocks on wood) I am going to focus on getting those duals installed.
Packman

[86VickyLX]

The 9 volt battery was just replaced the light lights up when just connected to the test connectors and shuts off when I put the ignition on. I believe that the manual said that that would happen depending on what car it is. I guess it's mine. Well I don't get any codes. A system good code would be a code 11. For system pass. I get no codes. I am dealing with, I believe a stored code for the ECT. That's all I think. My check engine light is on. I don't know.

[packman]

How's it running with the check engine light on?
Packman

[Tiggie]

The 9 volt battery was just replaced the light lights up when just connected to the test connectors and shuts off when I put the ignition on. I believe that the manual said that that would happen depending on what car it is. I guess it's mine. Well I don't get any codes. A system good code would be a code 11. For system pass. I get no codes. I am dealing with, I believe a stored code for the ECT. That's all I think. My check engine light is on. I don't know.

You are right that you should be getting a code 11 for a system with no problems. I've pulled the codes on my '87 and '88 with no problems with my cheapo Equus code puller. It has a "Hold" postion that I put it in before turning the key. After the key is on and the fuel pump has pressurized, I take it off hold and it starts the test. Little relays click and such. Then it spits codes. You ECM might be bad or there could be a poor ground somewhere.

You car is an '86, right? If your check engine light is on, you've got low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. More than likely, one of those sensors is bad. That isn't going to affect the running of the car, though or throw any codes.

[86VickyLX]

You are right that you should be getting a code 11 for a system with no problems. I've pulled the codes on my '87 and '88 with no problems with my cheapo Equus code puller. It has a "Hold" postion that I put it in before turning the key. After the key is on and the fuel pump has pressurized, I take it off hold and it starts the test. Little relays click and such. Then it spits codes. You ECM might be bad or there could be a poor ground somewhere.

You car is an '86, right? If your check engine light is on, you've got low oil pressure or high coolant temperature. More than likely, one of those sensors is bad. That isn't going to affect the running of the car, though or throw any codes.

Yes it is an '86 the only sensor I know of for the oil is the idiot light 'Low Oil'
The coolant temperature sensor gave a code the last time I did a scan check. That was with a snap on code scanner that the inspection stations use. That thing did everything for you except turn the wheel and depress the brake pedal. Coolant temp sensor does have a code. code 21. 'Out of range' i replaced it. Twice. it's not the sensor, it's not the wires. I thought it would be the salt and pepper harnesses. Because I had them disconnected at one point. So I thought I would reconnect them. i never got a chance to see if the check engine light now was only a stored code in the system. So I don't know. For the code scanner, would you flip it on test and then to hold? Would you do that before you hooked it up so the scanner is on? Or after, and then you go through the tests? I don't know i never used one of these things.