Originally posted by gadget73
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Blew out my shock mounts
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so, whats the status on this Matt?
you fix it yet?2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
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Originally posted by 88grandmarqso, whats the status on this Matt?
you fix it yet?Last edited by svt87; 06-27-2006, 12:24 PM.
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weld the fuckers on, i got sick of replacing mine every 2 weeks(guess i engage in too much "sprited driving" heh heh) so i had em welded on when i did the exhaust, theyre brand new, and the odds of havin to replace the shocks before the car dies are very slimjay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......
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Originally posted by 83tcweld the fuckers on, i got sick of replacing mine every 2 weeks(guess i engage in too much "sprited driving" heh heh) so i had em welded on when i did the exhaust, theyre brand new, and the odds of havin to replace the shocks before the car dies are very slim1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
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Okay, I figured out what to do. Basically while the shock is out I'll drop a bolt through each hole from the top, and with a washer on either side of the control arm surface I'll fasten a nut on each bolt from below. Voila! Mounting studs! Then I just sandwich the metal blade on the shock with washers and fasten another nut in place and I'll be all set. Yes I'll techincally be extending the length of the shock tube by like 1/4" but I don't think that will matter.
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I don't think it will make a noticeable diffrence, when I have my front wheels up in the air (so suspension is maxed out) if I disconnect the shocks from the control arms the shocks extend at least an inch more. This was true for the stock shocks, and also for the new Monroes I have there now, so I think you'll be safe, but then again I don't know if the cast upper control arms allow for some more down movement than the stamped ones - just check for that before you do it. Aaand you really need to get that ass off the ground, looks like you have three dead hookers in the trunk now.
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Originally posted by Ivan DI don't think it will make a noticeable diffrence, when I have my front wheels up in the air (so suspension is maxed out) if I disconnect the shocks from the control arms the shocks extend at least an inch more. This was true for the stock shocks, and also for the new Monroes I have there now, so I think you'll be safe, but then again I don't know if the cast upper control arms allow for some more down movement than the stamped ones - just check for that before you do it. Aaand you really need to get that ass off the ground, looks like you have three dead hookers in the trunk now.
Yeah, the car really needs a whole new rear end in terms of suspension and differential. Putting more money into it is not a priority right now though. I already have my deposit down on a new daily driver that will be much more fuel efficient and reliable. Don't worry though, I'm keeping the Crown Vic. It's just not going to get the budget and miles that it used to.
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Here are the next scheduled upgrades:
-Rear axle rebuild (replace seals and bearings), preferably a 31-spline setup if I can get the parts and build it.
-Rear differential replacement (3.73 gears, some sort of locking device)
-New rear springs, shocks, bushings
-Rear swaybar
-Larger gas tank, high performance fuel pump
-AFR165 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake manifold, 70mm TB, 80mm MAF, 24# injectors, new lifters, dyno tune
-Rear disc brakes, possibly ABS
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Originally posted by svt87Okay, I figured out what to do. Basically while the shock is out I'll drop a bolt through each hole from the top, and with a washer on either side of the control arm surface I'll fasten a nut on each bolt from below. Voila! Mounting studs! Then I just sandwich the metal blade on the shock with washers and fasten another nut in place and I'll be all set. Yes I'll techincally be extending the length of the shock tube by like 1/4" but I don't think that will matter.
THe Service Manual actually says if you strip the threads, to just use some appropriately sized bolts with nylon lock nuts, so it is a fairly common occurance.
IMO I would use a grade 8 bolt.
The slightly extended shock length is liekly jsut a moot point, I highly doubt any difference in shock operation will occur.
-derekLast edited by drock96marquis; 07-05-2006, 01:32 PM.-My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
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