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    oil pressure

    after hooking up a mechanical oil pressure gauge,Im not sure IM happy with its readings. When Its cold its reading about 40psi, after warming up it runs between 10 & 35 psi. The dummy light doesnt flicker & the motor sounds strong. Should I be worried? Oh by the way its a 92 5.0 HO motor.

    #2
    Thats fine. As long as its got some oil pressure you're OK.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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      #3
      Thats about 10 to 15 PSI low
      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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        #4
        20PSI and below is definitely cause to take note. It means that you have bearing wear. 10PSI means significant wear. A low idle could be giving you a low reading.

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          #5
          I installed a cheap set of Sunpro gauges. could it be the gauge? I used every bit of line they give me to route it to where i have gauges but im sure there is no kinks.

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            #6
            If you're getting 10, I wonder what my '88 gets....the light is on/flickers all the time lol
            '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
            '95 Ford Bronco XL -

            sigpic :rebel:

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              #7
              you dont need much oil pressure at idle, the important thing is wether or not it goes up while you are driving.
              I think the light comes on at 6 or 8 psi
              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
              sigpic
              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                #8
                Yea, see...it's on when I drive too. :p
                '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
                '95 Ford Bronco XL -

                sigpic :rebel:

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 85crownHPP*
                  you dont need much oil pressure at idle, the important thing is wether or not it goes up while you are driving.
                  I think the light comes on at 6 or 8 psi
                  If it doesn't go up while you are driving, you will soon get several clues such as the hole in your oil pan....

                  It is affectionately called an idiot light for a reason. By the time the light goes on if you are driving, it may be too late do do anything abaout it anyway, although I know of more than 1 bright individual that would wait to add oil until their light would come on. Needless to say, the engines didn't last long.
                  In a 302, it isn't a matter of "need" as much as a symptom of impending failure. As your bearing clearances increase, your oil pressure will decrease. You could also have a oil pickup screen which is clogging up or an oil pump with excessive clearances.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Usually most ford engines will live for a considerable amount of time with just 3 pounds of oil pressure at idle in gear. Try adding heavier oil (SAE 15W-40) and see if that helps. It should give you an additional 4-5 pounds. Also keep the engine as cool as possible.
                    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
                    Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You could use some lucas oil stabiliser too, and a 180 dgree thermostat will help keep it cooler.
                      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                      sigpic
                      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                        #12
                        Mine would drop to 0 hot at idle....motor was quiet. Ran great. 250K miles. Trans died first...

                        Now, the 91...wow. 20w50 and the idiot light lit up on the highway. Lots of noise. Crank was ground up along with the bearings.
                        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                          #13
                          i've seen plenty of 302's run without oil pressure.......10 psi is fine for a high mileage motor........i bet jeremys car makes no more than 10 psi........prob run some more if it's not beat on lol

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                            #14
                            I used to drive my 1979 LTD to school in a snow storm up hill both ways towing a school bus with -4psi of oil pressure...752,289.4 miles on it.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mercracer
                              In a 302, it isn't a matter of "need" as much as a symptom of impending failure.
                              I feel like that should be quoted again.
                              Personally, I drove over 500 miles in three days with the dummy light coming on and the gauge reading sub-10psi the entire time. When I parked it, it still was not knocking. However, I didn't bother, because I knew what was coming.
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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