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recommend-to-change timing chain mileage?

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    #1

    recommend-to-change timing chain mileage?

    I looked at the paperwork for the 91... it got a new/reman engine in 2001 at about 95,000 miles... its got about 170,000 on it now.
    I'm replacing the water pump soon, maybe this weekend. If i don't break any bolts off, I'd rather not do the chain, lol. Mostly because I want to do the intake gaskets in the same day (and not take ALL day), and I wont mind doing the chain 30-50,000 miles later... It's not a mess down there either, the crank seal is pretty dry.

    Anyone got stories about how sloppy their chain was at a specific mileage? Help me be lazy.

    I also have a few other things to do that day too, front shocks, fuel filter, re-set the dizzy (the TFI module is almost touching the t-stat housing...)
    Fixing the steering column issues got me motivated to give her more... she's been trouble free aside from needing a transmission pretty soon after I got her. Time for lovin'... she might even get HO upperstuff and a P71 airbox...
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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    #2
    really hard to say....since the engine is a reman, not factory original, they may have put in a good quality aftermarket chain so it may last quite awhile if not abused, I am from the old school "if its not broke, don't fix it"......

    Comment

      #3
      I doubt it needs a timing set after 75,000 mi if they remanned the motor. Checking it is easy though. Just unsnap the distributor cap and watch the rotor while you turn the crank back and forth with a breaker bar. There should be very little to no slop before the rotor starts to turn.
      Matt

      Deep Jewel Green/Mocha 1993 Grand Marquis LS

      Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Welded mufflers, 17x8 bullits, KYB shocks, Air Lift springs, Draw Tite Class II trailer hitch, and new valve seals @ 116,000 mi.

      Comment

        #4
        ^ what he said, I'd check, hopefully they put a double roller on there and it doesn't have much slop, although after 120K my double roller was pretty loos...but if you don't mind doing it in 30-50K miles, then you should be all right.
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

        Comment

          #5
          I replaced the double roller set on the Mark VII at 225k, and it wasn't that terrible. It had slop, but not nearly enough to have been cause for concern. There was no danger of it jumping or anything. Single rollers won't hold up nearly as well, so it really kind of depends what they put in there. If some fool found and installed a plastic gear set, those are often hosed by the 100k mark. Second the rotor check to see whats going on with it.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

          Comment

            #6
            At 190k I was in the same boat as gadget. Some slop, but not scary. I only did it because I was resealing the cover and I was already in there.
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

            Comment

              #7
              I did mine because it needed a water pump and the balancer replaced. I was a handful of bolts away at that point and I already had the new part in my hand.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment

                #8
                at the age these cars are at, i usually pull the timing cover too if i'm doing a water pump and the cover gasket has never been done.

                1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                Comment

                  #9
                  Did mine at just over 122K because I needed to do the water pump. Gears/chain still looked good but I had a "Forrest Gump moment" - since I already had the pump out I might just as well keep going....


                  "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                  "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                  "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                  Comment

                    #10
                    How much more is involved to do the timing chain say for expample if your doing the water pump?
                    "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                    -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                    -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                    -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                    -2011 Subaru Outback

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I could be wrong but I don't believe you need to remove the harmonic balancer for a water pump replacement so you would need to do that, unscrew all the bolts for the timing chain cover (front block cover) and remove (sometimes with great effort), scrape away the old gasket, turn the engine until the marks are lined up, remove camshaft bolt, replace timing chain, replace crankshaft seal, rtv sealant and gasket everything up then put it back together. If I would have had everything I needed before starting I don't think it would have taken much more time. Prepping the gasket surfaces is what took the longest for me.

                      I've been meaning to do a write up on it... mushroom season kind of got in the way.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        thats pretty much it. Balancer, crank pulley, and maybe 10 more bolts. Plus the gaskets under the cover of course.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Is't the balancer located under the water pump and not needed to be taken off?
                          "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                          -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                          -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                          -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                          -2011 Subaru Outback

                          Comment

                            #14
                            it needs to be removed if you are replacing the timing chain. It prevents the cover from coming off. It does not need to come off if you are only changing the water pump.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                            Comment

                              #15
                              One of my 88 CVPIs had 165K on it (double roller chain). It was surprisingly loose so I replaced it. Overall engine performance and gas mileage improved and also allowed me to switch the car back from 91 octane to 87 octane fuel without ping and the acceleration was better. These was replicated on a 1975 Torino Elite with a 5.8 Windsor when I replaced a loose chain and plastic gears. If your octane needs have increased or you had a slight acceleration lag, and especially doing a water pump or replacing a leaky front cover, DO THE CHAIN and GEARS.

                              Comment

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