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Pedestal or Stud Mounted Rockers???

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    Pedestal or Stud Mounted Rockers???

    Which of these types of heads are better for the street and occassional track time?



    Packman

    #2
    I'm no expert, but I think stock stamped pedestal rockers are fine unless you have a huge cam or wind to crazy RPMs. Then you might want to do one of the roller-rocker upgrades. Even then, there are pedestal-mount roller rockers you can buy that won't require a separate stud conversion kit.

    If you're looking at pre-'77 cylinder heads that used a stud mount from the factory, pay attention to whether the studs are pressed in or screwed in.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      For what I want to eventually build for the CV, it definitely won't be revving that high at all. The heads that I'm looking at have pedestal mounted rockers, so if they're good for low end to midrange type of engines, then that's what I'll get. I'm still thinking about finding an F4TE Windsor and building it up. I'm guessing that the later roller block 302 and 351W (96-98)engines are all pedestal mount. If all goes well, I might start collecting parts for the build in a couple weeks.


      Packman

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        #4
        Mild motor you should be fine with pedestal rockers.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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          #5
          All '77-up Windsors are pedestal mount.
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment


            #6
            Stud mount is usually used when you go to really high lift cams. High lift cams are usually accompanied with very stiff valve springs, and high RPMs. This can cause the bolt holding the rockers down on a pedestal mount to rip out of the block. The stud for the stud mounts has a larger diameter thread size to go into the head, so that it's stronger.

            Later cars use pedestal mount because it's cheaper to assemble, only one bolt per rocker, where stud mount requires torquing the stud and the nut.
            Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 09-13-2009, 03:26 AM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Blaze86Vic View Post
              Later cars use pedestal mount because it's cheaper to assemble, only one bolt per rocker, where stud mount requires torquing the stud and the nut.
              And adjusting the rocker properly. Just more work all around.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment


                #8
                I'm going to look for the stud mounted heads first because I can easily find stud roller rockers. If they don't have them, then I will go with pedestal heads. Good idea, bad idea?



                Packman

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                  #9
                  Are a lot of pre-'77 production heads really worth messing with on a mild engine? Even if they are, I seem to recall hearing/reading that there's a strong likelihood of ending up with pressed-in studs, which would have to be removed and the head modified to accept screw-in studs.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #10
                    Pedistal mounts are just fine, I run them on my built 351M and I have a big cam in it, and run it up to 6000 rpm. No problems for the last 5 years.
                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      I'm looking at the AFR 165 heads. I like the pedestal heads because they have 60cc combustion chambers versus the stud heads with 58cc combustion chambers. Though, all I see in the parts catalogs are the stud roller rockers. I have to find my Ford Racing catalog and see if they have pedestal roller rockers.



                      Packman

                      Comment


                        #12
                        A lot of production stud mount heads are no better from a strength perspective than a pedestal mount. The studs are pressed in. Honestly it may be that a thread-in pedestal rocker is a little stronger than the press in stud, though I have no data to back that up. I have seen the studs pull on big block Chevy heads though. Its sort of interesting when it happens, if they go gradually. The valvetrain will suddenly loosen up, and maybe bend up a pushrod. It will usually tighten back down and work for a bit, but it will keep coming loose until eventually the stud just yanks right out of the head. Its not real good when valvetrain parts come out of position. Last motor I saw with that problem wasted the lifter, a couple pushrods, the rocker, and it did a number on the head itself where the stud majorly egged out the iron around it before finally letting go.

                        Lots of people make pedestal rockers. Crane, Harland Sharp, Scorpion, Ford Racing. Have a look around Summit, they're out there. I have a set of Crane Cobras on the Towncar, and a set of Scorpions on my P heads.
                        Last edited by gadget73; 09-14-2009, 11:50 PM.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by packman View Post
                          I'm looking at the AFR 165 heads. I like the pedestal heads because they have 60cc combustion chambers versus the stud heads with 58cc combustion chambers. Though, all I see in the parts catalogs are the stud roller rockers. I have to find my Ford Racing catalog and see if they have pedestal roller rockers.



                          Packman


                          Oooooh, you weren't clear that you were looking at expensive ($1300ish/pair) aftermarket heads. Any of those with studs should use threaded studs and should be quite strong, and starting with a head that expensive it won't be a big deal to drop $200 on a nice set of Comp Pro Magnum roller rockers to go with them.

                          What are you planning to do with these AFRs? What static compression ratio do you expect with the 58cc heads versus 60?
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            There might be an opportunity to get these heads at a much better price than what's in the catalog. Hopefully the deal works out. I'm hoping for 10.5:1 static CR in a standard bore/stroke 351W. IDK, I might even try Pirate's long rod bottom end kit. For now, I'm focusing on finding the parts I want at a decent price.



                            Packman

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                              #15
                              AFRs will make outstanding power on your 351 build. Hope this works out!
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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