Car just quit!

[sly]

the hose from the pump to the hanger probably split open and it's just spraying gas back inside the tank. You will need a new pump gasket (should still be able to get those from dealers for cheap - <$10). Dropping the tank with gas in it is not advised... definitely siphon it. Though with the tank close to empty, it's not that bad. You will also need a new filler neck grommet/seal. They do not like being disturbed. I wouldn't waste my time trying to cut an access hole with the tank in the car as you'll probably destroy the tank in the process.

[gadget73]

I believe the pump faces forward on these, so no point cutting holes. Even if it doesn't, the tank is so close that the chances of you getting a hole in the right spot without slicing through the tank are about zero.

[VicCrownVic]

If you're unable to get a fuel pressure gauge, I suppose you could disconnect the filter, grab something to catch gas in, turn the key on, and if you get a weak stream or no stream at all then it's time to drop the tank.

Also I'm not sure if cutting in from the trunk will be much help since the pump is probably on the front of the tank. Cutting through the back seat might get you there, but either way you have to worry about hitting the tank and compromising structural integrity.

+1 siphon the tank first, get all that weight of the gas out so the tank is more manageable.
I'm not sure if there is any kind of anti siphoning baffles in the filler neck though, my mom's 98 Taurus seemed to have such a thing when I tried to siphon her tank before we dropped it for tank replacement (tank was rusting through). I'm not sure what my dad ended up doing to siphon it.

If you get in there and find that it is the hose that split you may be able to get away with just getting a new section of fuel hose, a new fuel pump strainer, filler neck grommet, and the fuel pump tank seal (for around the lock ring/mount plate).
If you're going in that far you might as well get the $93 pump + filler neck grommet which might be easier than trying to piece all of that together, and you shouldn't have to mess with it again.

[split1atom]

Ok. Thats a no on the cutting the floor. All the 3rd Gen Camaro guys go that way so they dont have to drop the suspension. I just did this on my 68 Impala. The work isnt the deal. I just read an article on the Grand Marquis that was saying something about how difficult it is to put it back in. That they had to cut the straps, add pieces in, blah blah blah. Basically very difficult and I was trying to avoid the delay. Sounds as though you guys dont think so. I will also go ahead at least with the $100 unit. Too little cost versus just a hose and then have to take it all apart again. To another question, I didnt take the filter off and check the pressure, but I did depress the schrader (sp) valve on the engine. It only came out about an inch. I had the kid turn the key on, not much more. I figured under pressure, that should have done more than bubble out. Thanks again to everyone.

[IPreferDIY]

... I just read an article on the Grand Marquis that was saying something about how difficult it is to put it back in. That they had to cut the straps, add pieces in, blah blah blah. Basically very difficult and I was trying to avoid the delay. ...

I've never done it myself, but I read something like that too. But, the problem is apparently that the mounting bolts/studs are too short because the originals -- which are much longer -- are made so that the excess threads get broken off after installation. You can apparently get the original long bolts/studs so you don't have to lengthen the straps when re-installing.

[split1atom]

Beautuful! Thanks.

[gadget73]

There are 2 studs that hold the tank straps in. I have had to cheat and use longer bolts to put it back together, but its not the end of the world. The studs come out with the nut half the time anyway. My tank straps are original, the tank is not. Hacking and adding to the straps sounds like some sort of Bubba fix to me.

[VicCrownVic]

Ok. Thats a no on the cutting the floor. All the 3rd Gen Camaro guys go that way so they dont have to drop the suspension. I just did this on my 68 Impala. The work isnt the deal. I just read an article on the Grand Marquis that was saying something about how difficult it is to put it back in. That they had to cut the straps, add pieces in, blah blah blah. Basically very difficult and I was trying to avoid the delay. Sounds as though you guys dont think so. I will also go ahead at least with the $100 unit. Too little cost versus just a hose and then have to take it all apart again. To another question, I didnt take the filter off and check the pressure, but I did depress the schrader (sp) valve on the engine. It only came out about an inch. I had the kid turn the key on, not much more. I figured under pressure, that should have done more than bubble out. Thanks again to everyone.

Sounds like the pressure at that schrader valve is nowhere near where it should be (roughly 30 to 40psi, closer to 40 if IIRC).
Like you said, it's probably a better call to get the pump and not have to worry about doing it all over in the near future.

[Louis]

You may want to do a search on crownvic.net (don't need to be a member, just use their google search function) about removing the pump without dropping the tank....I recall awhile back a taxi guy posted that he could pull and change the pump without dropping the tank. (I think it was member 'BMFer') He had done so many that he could do it in 20 minutes. I was peering up at mine one day when I had the rear up on ramps....looked like a tight squeeze to remove the pump but possible.

And like mentioned above, you should be getting a healthy squirt at the schraeder valve when its pumping properly (40psi).

Damn these new cars, totally over-engineered nonsense just to get to a fuel pump. My '73 Buick, two bolts on the side of the engine, disconnect the fuel line, 30 bucks for a new pump.

[gadget73]

I think it may be possible too on the aeros. I've never tried it, mostly because I don't have a roundbody but it might be worth attempting. If it fails, you had to get under there to drop the tank anyway.


Use a brass punch to walk the lock ring out. Non-sparking tools around explosive gasoline vapor FTW.

[split1atom]

Louis/Gadget, Good input. The car is damaged beyond ever making it anything more than a work car anyways. As long as I take my time and dont blow myself up, maybe I can donate something to the forum useful for once! Ive got all the brass tools to keep the sparks down. I just did my 68 Impala in a day. Pulled the tank, cleaned it, powder coated it and put in back with a new sending unit in an evening. Pump was like yours with 2 bolts. Took more time getting ready than it did to do. All this tech crap is why I started going back to 60's vehicles! I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks as always.

[gadget73]

dunno, I'll take a once every 20 year fuel pump replacement over the far more frequent maintenance intervals on older stuff. My first two cars were air cooled Beetles. I was driving enough every month it got an oil change and a valve lash check and adjustment. I know not everything is quite so maintenance intensive as one of those but its still a lot more frequent diddling than most EFI stuff.

[split1atom]

Conclusion! For any of you that have been following, thanks for the help. For anyone new to the thread or the Ford/Mercs that has a bad pump, read the whole thing. Well, I cut the 3 brackets (2 on muffler and 1 on tail pipe) and pulled the exhaust to the side. I made a second trip to the parts store to get the special quick release tool for the fuel lines. After removing the fuel lines, I cut the 3 wires that ran off to the passenger side as others had explained. I took the 6 bolts out of the fuel pump cover, removed the unit, replaced the pump and hose in the kit and put it back together. I spliced the 3 wires back together and was done in less than an hour. For anyone reading the posts on if the pump can come out without removing the tank (on a 2001 Grand Marquis) the answer is a definite yes! DO NOT REMOVE THE TANK. Here is the one bit of help that I will give you from my experience. My car had a full tank of gas in it. It actually quit at the gas station. The work took 1 hour. Emptying the tank on the ground, in the driveway, took 5 hours. The filler tube has a check ball in the bottom. No syphoning. I wasnt willing to lose the gas by draining it out the fuel pump cover. So I took an old gas cap (could have just used duct tape). Drilled a hole in it and fitted it with an air nozzle that I had for the compressor. I then split the fuel line on the front side of the fuel filter and added a line out to a can. I then pressurized the tank with air. I was able to "push" the fuel out the through the pump. It took about 7-10 minutes per gallon but worked great. Someone with a bigger compressor wont spend near the time. Hope it helps. Bob

[gadget73]

I've suspected you could get the pump out without dropping the tank on the newer ones. Why do you have to cut the wires, no plug to disconnect them ?

[split1atom]

Hey Gadget. I heard that everyone was cutting the wires while I was doing my research. What I found out once I was under it, was that the main harness comes in from the driver side. Then 3 wires run out to the passenger side. Because of the small loom, you cant pull the fuel pump out as it needs to come out and immediately turn towards one side or another. I couldnt find the plug for either. Based on what the other threads stated, the connectors are up on top of the tank.