anybody know how to get the 'gate motor out?
thanks.....
thanks.....
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87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.
91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.
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I haven't done the tailgate in a few years, but if you find the location of the motor behind the door panel, you should see three dips in the metal. Drill those out with a 1/2" drill bit and you can access the bolts holding it in. I want to say they were 7/32 or something ungodly small.
Hope that helps.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming. -
no dimples... that's what i expected to find after doing side doors....
i guess i could just get out the sawzall LOL
87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.
91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.
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The guy my dad paid to replace my tailgate window motor used a sawzall and it looks like shit. Please don't do that.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.Comment
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I was kidding.....but I still need to figure it out.....
87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.
91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.
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i did somany of those i should make a tech artical!
its very hard to explain, i would habe to give mesurments to drill hols for screw access., i will try to get mesurements the next time i see my old mans wagon, but i can tell you this, u need a drill bit bigger than a 5/16 1/4 drive socket!
1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)Comment
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Originally posted by marquismani did somany of those i should make a tech artical! its very hard to explain, i would habe to give mesurments to drill hols for screw access., i will try to get mesurements the next time i see my old mans wagon, but i can tell you this, u need a drill bit bigger than a 5/16 1/4 drive socket!
Bump. :hacksaw:
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Sounds like it's like every other door. 9/16" drill bit and a 5/16" 1/4" drive socket.Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons
Busy maintaining a fleet of FordsComment
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I did both of my rear windows AND the tailgate window on my '88 Colony Park today.
The tailgate is much more difficult than the doors, because of the smallish access holes, and NO DIMPLES.
My best advice is to first remove a DOOR panel, and look at the locations of the 3 bolts that hold the motor in place.
The tailgate is similar.
Look closely, and you can just see the upper left (as you face the inside of the tailgate) bolt. Drill a 1/2" hole in the panel so you can remove it.
All the holes you drill are below the trim panel, so they will not be hidden when you're through like on the doors. Try to be accurate when you drill!
Feel around, and you can just barely put a finger on the upper right bolt.
Drill another 1/2" hole and remove it.
The third hole is almost at the bottom edge of the tailgate, a little left (your left, not the cars left) of midway between the two previous holes. Good luck on this one!
The motor and repairs are the same as for the doors.
Cover the holes you just drilled with duct tape and/or sheet metal when you finish, to keep dirt and exhaust out of the car. You can find matching color duct tape at some hardware stores...Last edited by pine box; 04-28-2006, 10:01 PM.Comment
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Yeah, old post, I know....
Is this doable with the regulator still in the tailgate? Can I simply pull out the motor, once the screws are loose and swap in a new motor? I remember exchanging a window motor on a 82 Corvette and having a hard time snapping the motor in on the bench in a vice, working against the pressure from the regulator spring.Regards, Alex
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No pressure from the regulator spring. Not sure if it’s just not there or the design holds the spring in place during replacement but nothing to worry about.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
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