Subs

[sly]

oh yeah... I remember the 2G blink. Be thumpin and all the lights dimming. 3G solved all that.

[longroof87]

150W sub runs on a 15 amp fuse typically (20A max). Even the stock alternator can handle that, but as with all 2G alts, best to upgrade to the 3G.

Well sure but, an 80-90A alternator is what most of these cars got. I didn't have trouble with the original in my CP but, when I was stopped at a light and had the heat or a/c, all the lights dimmed and the turn signal would slow down. There's a lot going on that needs power. Heck, Roadkill proved that you can only get what... 6 or 12 miles on the road on battery power alone with just the ignition system needing power.

[sly]

Well sure but, an 80-90A alternator is what most of these cars got. I didn't have trouble with the original in my CP but, when I was stopped at a light and had the heat or a/c, all the lights dimmed and the turn signal would slow down. There's a lot going on that needs power. Heck, Roadkill proved that you can only get what... 6 or 12 miles on the road on battery power alone with just the ignition system needing power.

Yup. Exactly the issue I had. 3G swap solved all that mess.

[marquis_82_withneons]

i will be custom building a super slim box to house a pair of whatever sized subs. its for my dads 84 Vic Wag and im gonna put it flush mount to the back of the rear seats and fire towards the tailgate. will be full width of the seat but will only be around 7" or so thick, basically the mounting depth of whatever subs go in there.

[DerekTheGreat]

Like sly and I mentioned, a 120A 3G will solve all your problems. I think even at idle they can put out 50 or 60 amps which is far superior to the 2G's 16 or 18. No more slow turnsignals, wipers or dim headlights.