Subs

[drwoowoowoo]

Looking at adding 2 10s or 8s to my wagon. Just wondering where you guys are putting them? Is there enough room under the plastic panels on the sides to put some bumpage?

[BlackVic_P71]

The wheel wells are behind that plastic panel(where the speaker is) so there isn't much room.

I was trying to get a hold of an extra set of trim panels to make some fiberglass enclosures for 8" subs but that hasn't gotten very far.

[longroof87]

Subs

Hate to grave dig threads but....

I just installed a Kicker Hideaway under the passenger front seat. It's small enough to not get kicked by passengers and it's really good for its small size. Amazon has a refurbished version for $150.

[sly]

I'm guessing you mean this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Hideaw.../dp/B007LQWSYC

Looks like a stout little bit of kit. Doesn't look any bigger than the amp for my subs. It quite literally could be mounted almost anywhere.

[longroof87]

Yeah it's great. Just don't expect it to get really loud. It's been fine for my listening needs. I listen to modern rock, ska, electro swing, 70s, 80s rock.

[gadget73]

Nice way to get a little bottom end without giving up any cargo space. The under-seat area is pretty much a waste anyway, not much but dead fries and loose change is stored there.

[87gtVIC]

I have a mid 2000's Ford soft shell owners manual zip up thingie i have adapted to hold CD's when I first got the car back in 2006 that resides underneath the passengers side seat. To be honest, it has been pretty much sitting there since untouched. lol

[Rodentkiller]

My subs are mounted in a "Down fire" Box due to the desire that I did not want to vibrate my trunk and not here good base.

[BlackVic_P71]

Hate to grave dig threads but....

I just installed a Kicker Hideaway under the passenger front seat. It's small enough to not get kicked by passengers and it's really good for its small size. Amazon has a refurbished version for $150.

I have one under the passenger seat too, I wasn't expecting much but was pleased with the output when I put it in.

[DerekTheGreat]

They say the area under the seat provides HVA/C circulation...

[sly]

meh. Never had an issue with my amp under the seat in the beater. And it's larger than that speaker housing (manual seat). You still have either side and the area above the speaker to the seat itself. Circulation will still happen.

[longroof87]

They say the area under the seat provides HVA/C circulation...

So far, it hasn't seemed to cause any issues. Plus, if the circulation really mattered and actually made a difference, the sub would've become from floor heat. Yesterday after 2 hours of driving, the sub was still cool to the touch. Not ice cold but, room temperature type of cool.

[longroof87]

Before doing a sub upgrade, you must do an alternator upgrade. Its pitiful to not be able to maintain voltage when stopped at a light with the heat and headlights on. It's not only better but also safer if you go with a 3G alternator.

Back in June I installed a '95 Mustang GT alternator and a Painless Performance fox body 3G upgrade. The charge cable is not long enough to route nicely so, you'll need to cut your own. It comes with crimp on connectors and heat shrink so all you need is the cable.

There was a ground wire that I ended up grounding to the housing of the alternator itself because if I went to the battery, I didn't get a charge. I may post pictures once I'm back in town if somebody wants them.

[sly]

150W sub runs on a 15 amp fuse typically (20A max). Even the stock alternator can handle that, but as with all 2G alts, best to upgrade to the 3G.

[DerekTheGreat]

I ran my stocker 2G with my sub for awhile, it was pitiful. When I swapped to a 3G it was a major improvement for soundquality, the sub hit harder & tighter with less impact on the lights. I also installed a 2F capacitor and that helped loads, at least by 75%. I used a charge cable from a 90's Continental, was long enough to go from the starter solenoid past the battery, along the core support and up the driver's side frame rail to the existing harness to then meet the alternator. No splicing or any of that, has a fusible link incorporated right at the eyelet going to the SS. If I had to do it again I'd take two of them and splice just enough length to get me running the wire along the driver's side fender and then meeting up with that harness for a more factory look. As it is now though you can't even tell the swap has been done, looks natural.