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Picked up some new parts for the Fairlane, so I'm getting it ready for some good track/cruising time this summer. I have a new differential ready to go, so here's what I have.
New Quick Fuel Q-950 carb. Is this a work of art or what?
New Detroit TrueTrac 31-spline
New Strange Nodular Housing
New Strange Daytona Pinion Support
New Richmond 4.33 Gears
New Moser 1350 End Yoke
All Together
Looking for the next nice day to take out the 3.89 Traction Lock differential, and swap out the 850 Holley Double Pumper.
I've never really run this thing in the 1/4, with everything just right. I think this is the year for that. I hope to be running mid 11's and get kicked off the track, for no roll bar. I'll be a happy man if that happens. I'll post back when I get new vids and some track time.
1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed 1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD 2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Current - June 2016 POTM Winner
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2dr - Long gone
Yeah, I'll have to lower my "cruising" speed a bit so I don't run out of gas, but coming out of those toll booths will be a blast. I hope one day you can ride this thing Tom. I was looking back to the start of this thread, and we are going on 3 years now since I first thought of this engine. We gotta get you behind the wheel.
1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed 1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD 2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Current - June 2016 POTM Winner
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2dr - Long gone
That'd be the 'slop' between the gears; thats how I would describe it. Usually measured with a dial caliper on a magnetic base. On the GM 10 bolt I did recently, it was supposed to be .008"-.012".
I have some questions about the Caltracs:
Prior to installing them, did the car just spin? Did you have wheelhop? Did you consider the Competition Engineering 'Slide-a-Link'? My brother wants to use the CE pieces, but everything I have read says the Caltracs are best. I was even thinking of getting a set for the Ram to combat the bizarre wheelhop.
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
That'd be the 'slop' between the gears; thats how I would describe it. Usually measured with a dial caliper on a magnetic base. On the GM 10 bolt I did recently, it was supposed to be .008"-.012".
I have some questions about the Caltracs:
Prior to installing them, did the car just spin? Did you have wheelhop? Did you consider the Competition Engineering 'Slide-a-Link'? My brother wants to use the CE pieces, but everything I have read says the Caltracs are best. I was even thinking of getting a set for the Ram to combat the bizarre wheelhop.
You're right on with the backlash. It's the "space" or "mesh" between the ring and pinion gears. As they heat up they expand, so that's why you have to have some sort of "gap" or backlash between them while they are cold. They would lock up if you had no backlash, and drove away for a short distance. Drag racing only cars have tighter backlashes of .008, since they aren't driven for long distances, and can cool down quickly. I did have ALOT of wheelhop with the Lakewood Traction bars, so that's why I went with the CalTrac bars. On a leaf spring car, there is nothing better than CalTrac bars. You change the center of gravity for the launch, and up to 3K rpm launches with my car, the tires don't spin. The car just squats and goes. That's what you want to do.
I installed my new Quick Fuel 950, Blue Thunder Competition Valve Covers, and my new 4.33 geared center section. I took a quick ride with my Dad with everything in, and it feels great! I took it out on the interstate and calibrated the speedometer. I can't wait to bring it to Raceway Park in Englishtown, NJ, to see what she does. I think I'm finally done with the car for awhile, other than body stuff. I'm real happy with my combination.
Here's the old valve covers, that made my engine look like a BB chebby....
These covers clear my brake master cylinder with room to spare. It was alot closer with the Moroso covers I took off. To tighten that allen head bolt, I modified an allen head wrench to fit between it and the brake master cylinder. It's in the glove compartment now, because without that, I can't take off the valve cover.
I did change out the stock 30cc accelerator pumps with dual 50cc pumps on the Quick Fuel, because it just didn't seem to get going like the 850 with 50cc pumps I just took off. With that change, the car is really a beast on the street. This is the fastest the car has ever felt from a standing start, so I hope to be deep in the 11's in full street trim and drag radials. I'll post when I finally take it to the track.
Here's a before video, and it feels ALOT quicker with the new carb and gears.
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