I'll have to let you know when I get my fairlane road ready. Its coming from the opposite end of the spectrum but keeps me and my wallet happy.
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521 Stroker Motor for the Fairlane
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Originally posted by Jason_MarkVI View Posthey pat, I dont have quicktime 7 and cannot upgrade it..because my computer still WIN ME. quicktime 7 is only for XP and Vista. So, that mean Im going to get a new computer soon. Can you make me a favor, you put some videos at streetfire? so I can view your videos??
Nitroracer, show some pics during the work, and let's see what you have now. I dumped alot in my engine build, but the rest of the car needs alot of attention. It is sporting a 10 year old Maaco paint job, but I use my car all year long, and run the heck out of it. It's not even kept in a garage. I don't want a big dollar car either.1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed
1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD
2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
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hey pat baddass!
hey come out here sometime and race at numidia! it's a nice track.....lotsa traction.....my slow beasts never spin lol
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by PatFromJersey View PostHi Jason. Those videos are not in quicktime. Maybe you can do the old right click and save to your computer, and it should play with Windows Media Player. Also, are you the Jason that I sent the Fairlane pictures to? Did you get the ones from at the track? If not, you may be a different Jason.
Hey Pat,
yes that me!! haha. good to see you here! I will try to save it into my computer and use windows media player to see if its works.1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Current - June 2016 POTM Winner
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - SOLD
1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2dr - Long gone
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Originally posted by lincolnmania View Posthey pat baddass!
hey come out here sometime and race at numidia! it's a nice track.....lotsa traction.....my slow beasts never spin lol1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed
1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD
2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
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After 37 years, it was about time I took apart the 9" differential from the Fairlane. This setup was originally in my old 70 Torino Cobra, and as far as I know, it has never been rebuilt. I had two gear changes done to it a long time ago, 4:30's to 3.50's, then the 3.50's back to 3.89's. I had someone else do them, but since I tackled the 8.8 differential, the 9" is like a walk in the park. I was a little disappointed that I thought I had a Detroit Locker, according to the original owner, who is my Dad's friend I bought the Torino from back in 1985, but it has a Traction Lock rear in it. I don't think any of the guys who did the gears swapped it out on us, since I still have the original "N" case big bearing housing, and they would have had to swap all the bearings out too. I found out that is was common to have the 4.30 Drag Pack option on the Torino with a Traction Lock rear, and it was a $207 option for the Detroit Locker. I guess I'll never know 100%, since I don't have the original invoice. Anyway, I know I have to rebuild the traction lock with new clutch packs, and now I know why I've had traction issues for some time now. It needs new clutch packs! Here's some pics of my work.
The nasty before pics.....
I bought this little fixture last year, anticipating this job. What a lifesaver, and it made things real easy to work with. I cleaned and painted everything cast iron gray, so it looks all clean again. I used ALOT of brake cleaner on this thing.
I finally put the center section back together for the Fairlane. Not a bad job at all, and is very easy to do. I watched a DVD from the same guy who taught me the 8.8 rebuild, so I watched it a few times, took some notes, and headed to my Dad's garage.
I decided not to use the original traction lock, and picked up a used Detroit Locker. Half the price of a new one, so I hope I leave two black tire marks when I have it back in my car. I did buy new clutches for the traction lock, so I will put that back together next week. I'm not sure if I'll sell it, or hang on to it just in case.
After putting on the same ring gear I had before (Richmond 3.89's), I installed new bearings and races. I made work with the 20-ton press and did this all myself. I have more than paid for this thing, with all the use it's had. Don't throw away your old bearings, because you will need them to finish off pressing the new ones on. A flat piece will only get the bearing flush, but use an old bearing race to slip on top of the new bearing race, to press it the rest of the way.
New races installed on the larger Daytona Pinion Support.
New pinion bearing pressed on.
I decided to go with a solid pinion spacer, instead of the crush sleeve. To get me in the ballpark, I measured the old crush sleeve to get a starting point. I then made the solid spacer the same size. When I first checked the pinion bearing preload, it was only 10 inch/lbs. I took out .005 from the solid shim, and then it went up to 28 inch/lbs. I added .002 of shim, and I hit my mark at 20 inch/lbs for new bearings. The spec is 16-29 inch/lbs on new bearings, so I wanted to hit the 20 inch/lb mark.
I forgot to take a picture of the 20 inch/lb mark I left it at.
Here's the final pinion gear/support assembly, with new front seal installed and everything torque down. Since I used a solid spacer, the final torque on the pinion nut was 200 ft/lbs. If you use the crush sleeve, you tighten down (with alot of effort I might add), until you reach that magic number between 16-29 inch/lbs for new bearings, or 8-14 inch/lbs for used bearings. Don't put the O-ring on the pinion support just yet, until you check the gear pattern on the gears. Most of the time, the shim that came off will do it, but leaving the O-ring out for now, will make it easier to pull the pinion assembly in/out if you need to add/subtract from the current shim you're using. My original shim was perfect, so I didn't forget to the new O-ring on.
Here's the new pinion gear support bearing being installed.
Here's a shot of the fixture I made to hold the dial indicator to set the case spread. The actual case must be "spread" to achieve a carrier bearing preload of .008"-.012" I used a 5/16" bolt to thread into one of the bearing caps, welded a long 3/8" bolt with a larger bolt that happened to fit into one of my dial indicator adapters. I'd be lost without my MIG welder. :nod: After setting the differential into the housing, leave the right side adjuster loose, and tighten the left side adjuster until there is no play in the differential. Then, setup the dial indicator as pictured, and tighten the right side adjuster until the dial indicator reads .010". I picked that number because it was in the middle. Then make a reference mark for when you need to check the backlash.
Now I check my backlash. It was just under .008" which is a little too tight. so I loosened the left side adjuster one notch, and tightened the right adjuster one notch, to bring the ring gear away some. Move the adjusters the same amount, that's why you need the reference mark, so you don't mess with the .010" case spread spec you did earlier.
Here's the final assembly, ready to go in my Fairlane when I get home this afternoon from work.
1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed
1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD
2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
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nice work patt looks like you did a good job. this reminds me when we played around with toyota removable carriers are school
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
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Working with half my brain tied behind my back just to make it fair
- Sep 2011
- 7373
- Big Rapids, MI
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Ford 9" is a third member unit, eh? Nice. How do those carrier preload adjusters work? Sounds like they'd be much easier to deal with than the shims on an 8.8. Those are a bit of a PITA...
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
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A.K.A Kaptain Kanuck, Your Connection To The Great Land Of Eternal Winter and Incredibly Rusty Cars
- Oct 2006
- 2083
- Ontario
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Ahh, brings back memories of my first year in the AST course in college, we took apart ford 9" rear ends.sigpicVic Videos Here http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...676#post243676
Vic's Reader's Rides Page http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16917
Vic's Cardomain page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2532949
1975 Chevy C-10 Cardomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3371894
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Originally posted by packman View PostI think rebuilding the rear end will be last on my list now after looking at those pics. Good job on that rebuild!!!!!!!!!!
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Pat, what kinda clutch setup do you run?
It's getting time for me to start thinknig about things like this, and was curious. Since I got a heavy car I was def thinking of a steel flywheel, but what type of clutch material you use?
Need pics of those sexy new wheels, too1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
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