'76 continental Air Pump question

[Mike J.]

I just purchased a '76 continental yesterday. I have a question about the air/smog pump.

Currently the pump is no functional. Before I replace it.. can it be removed and if so, what other steps do I need to take after I remove it? Do I need to plug lines or remove other components?

I will get some pictures in the next few days... this is a 55,000 mile one owner car. The exterior looks great the interior has leather that needs to be cleaned and conditioned.

It needs the air pump and an exhaust manifold gasket mechanicly.

Thanks for any info.

Mike J.

[gadget73]

You can get rid of that stuff. Just cap off anything it connected to and call it a day.

[Mike J.]

Second part.. now the EGR system?

Ok.. the air\smog pump has been removed and all lines plugged at their sources.

The next question. Can I now remove the EGR system and plate off the location? If so are there other considerations when doing this? Do I have to remove or modify other systems because of the changes? What are the results of removing the system?

Thank you for any help.

Mike J.

[1987cp]

There are a few different ways to eliminate EGR if desired. Not sure why you'd want to if it's working correctly, though ...

What engine and what intake style are you working on? Just from my limited experience, I've seen intakes where the EGR valve bolts directly to passages in the manifold, and others where the manifold passages open into the carb pad itself, from whence the EGR does its thing via a fancy carburetor spacer.

[Mike J.]

There are a few different ways to eliminate EGR if desired. Not sure why you'd want to if it's working correctly, though ...

What engine and what intake style are you working on? Just from my limited experience, I've seen intakes where the EGR valve bolts directly to passages in the manifold, and others where the manifold passages open into the carb pad itself, from whence the EGR does its thing via a fancy carburetor spacer.

I will take a better look.. but I was working on it last night replacing vacuum lines and as I remember it... the EGR is bolted directly to the intake manifold on the back side. It is a 460.

I was going to remove it just to get it out off the engine if it is not really needed. No other reason at this point. I figured that it will give me problems eventually and was going to "less complicate" the engine.

What are the symptoms if it is failing or has failed?

I'm sorta stumbling around at this point since it is a new ownership situation and trying to head off items before they even occur.

Thank you
Mike J.

[johnunit]

I think most of the symptoms of a bad EGR are weirdness with idle/off idle performance. That could be different on a 4bbl 460 though.

The EGR isn't really costing you anything other than weight. It usually helps out with gas mileage. If I were you, I'd replace/check all the vacuum lines and such before I stripped it off.

As for repair, usually it's carboned/gucked up, so you just take off everything EGR related and make sure the passageways, valves, etc. are all clear.

[1987cp]

Okay, if the valve is bolted directly to the manifold you'll want to buy or make some sort of blockoff plate to cover the holes. I'd probably try whittling my one out of some 1/8" steel. Better yet, go ahead and install a performance intake with a four-barrel, but that's not much in the spirit of making things less complicated.

Hm ... I don't know a lot about what to look for with a nonfunctional EGR on an engine that's designed to have one, but logically, the stock carb calibration might be intended to take into account whatever amount of added combustibles the designers expected to flow at the times when the EGR is intended to be open, which would suggest that without an operational EGR, the engine may run a little bit lean some of the time. No idea whether that'd even be noticable on a 34-year-old engine that probably isn't in peak condition to begin with. As far as when it might be trying to run lean, that you may have to figure out yourself by observing what all controls the EGR's vacuum source (thermal vacuum switch comes to mind).

[Mike J.]

The EGR isn't really costing you anything other than weight.

:lol: I do not believe that is even a consideration with this car.

Thank you for all the information though.. I will pull it all and check it out.

make some sort of blockoff plate to cover the holes. I'd probably try whittling my one out of some 1/8" steel.

That is the plan at this point if I remove it. Easy enough to make a plate.

Thank you for all the info.

Mike J.

[79lincolnlover]

Time to up-date the vehicle list in your signature

[Merc3517]

I have worked on a 71 and it doesn't appear to have anything that even used to be an EGR. I would say if you get rid or it you would just need to cap of any vacuum lines and adjust your carburetor. Without 02 sensors and a computer I couldn't imagine much being effected but I would see if anyone else has anything to say to correct me if I am wrong.

[gadget73]

I think 71 predates EGR anyway. Theres no feedback system for the EGR, just thermal vacuum switches and some other BS that make it open whenever its supposed to. Removing it won't hurt anything. The engine won't even know its gone, though there is a possibility that you'll need to jet the carb a smidge richer to make up for the lack of EGR.

[ford man]

In my experience on 70's motors the egr is crude. It will run way better without it... The vacuum advance is an issue as it will need to be turned down or just plugged to resist pinging without egr. Like mentioned above the carb should be alittle richer also... You might be able to get a non egr spacer to mount the carb and block the manifold egr port. Edelbrock #8053 might work, but not sure... Best of luck

[Mike J.]

In my experience on 70's motors the egr is crude. It will run way better without it... The vacuum advance is an issue as it will need to be turned down or just plugged to resist pinging without egr. .. Best of luck

Well I have just completed a rebuild of the carb and left the EGR in place. It is working correctly so I decided it should stay. I did find that the floats needed to be replaced and that the vacuum advance was not working (this was alot of the problem). The accelerator pump needed replacement also. The entire carb was pretty gummed and dirty.

I also found that one of the vacuum canisters was leaking.. the one that the cruise control uses... I replaced it with a plastic vacuum tank (it is from a GM.. but I made sure it did not say GM on it anyway... I would have had to junk the car) and no more leaks. I could have repaired the coffee can but figured it was just a temp fix. There are still two more original vacuum tanks that are working great under the hood.

It is next going to get a new vinyl top. This original is not in the best of shape.

Thank all of you for the help and info

Mike J.