1978 Grand Marquis

[DerekTheGreat]

Oh I think representation for MI is overdue! Is it possible to send group PM's?

[VicCrownVic]

Oh I think representation for MI is overdue! Is it possible to send group PM's?

Just separate screen names with semi-colons.

[Grand1]

Michigan meet up thread started here:

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?52634-Michigan-time-to-show-up-and-roll-out&p=754832#post754832

[Hearsesrock427]

She's coming along! I like the engine color choices- the blue there almost matches the blue on the car's exterior. Looks like just little things from here on out (reassembling the motor, maybe adjusting timing for new cam).

[P72Ford]

A little late to the show, but...

Degreeing a cam is never required, however, it is usually recommended. Its not difficult, and it ensures that the physical camshaft matches the intended cam card specs. There are a couple methodologies, but the one I always used is the ICL. Basically ensures that your ICL is where the cam card designates. If you install the cam straight up, and you find that the ICL is a few degrees off, you can use the adjutable timing set to compensate in either direction. Very simple. It helps to check a few cylinders (some people do all of them), although if there is minimal variation from cylinder to cylinder, there is nothing you can do to fix that. Once you've established TDC, and the ICL, and adjusted your timing set accordingly, you can verify that the valve events occur when the cam card says they should. Is it necessary? No. But it does give you warm fuzzies, and despite what most people think, it is not a black art.

A degree wheel also helps to establish true TDC, which is very nice for installing a timing tape, and setting timing accurately.

Looks like a mild build that should deliver much bette performance. Please report back how it runs afterwards; I am considering doing a 385 series engine in my highboy, and would like to do a similar "mild" style build up.

Will you be using headers or exhaust manifolds? Reason I ask is, I would like to get away with manifolds on my truck, to keep the exhaust inboard of the frame rails. Almost all of the available headers for a 385 series swapped '73-'77.5 Fords route the exhaust outside the frame rail. I;d be curious to know how it feels with manifolds.

[Grand1]

P72 Ford,
Thanks for more information on the degreeing the cam ( and your right, it sounds much more intimidating than it is)
Since I wanted to keep a mild application and have some semblance of OEM ride quality...I chose not to degree it. (according to my calculations...I will be at 430 HP)...how much low end torque does one need?

The cam itself had been ground with a +5 advance already...I got TDC on #1 piston and made sure crank and timing chain/sprocket lined up accordingly.

I am going headers....from what I have heard those cast iron manifolds ( unless you can find some rare CJs $$$$$) can cause some back pressure/ more restriction....if its one thing I want...is this engine to breathe...I will take the extra noise headers can make

[Grand1]

Crunch time....alternator, starter, harmonic balancer, valve covers is on. Put in new water and fuel pump.
Rechecked everything.....I mean everything
Waiting for a recurve distributor to be delivered...sometime next week.

Slayer carburetor is going to be the cherry on da sundae. more pics coming ( will be firing up on my birthday this June 21st)

[Grand1]

Pics are ok....please wish me luck on timing...!

[DerekTheGreat]

Looks good in there! You planning on putting the A/C stuff back on it? Best o luck dude!

[P72Ford]

Pics are ok....please wish me luck on timing...!

Timing should be pretty simple. Ensure you are at TDC (intake). If you have to, pull the VC, and make sure that you are just before where the intake valve opens. Drop the distributor in such that the rotor lines up with #1 on the cap. It should start, and then you can just adjust with a light from there. Probably want to use a scotchbrite pad to clean up the timing marks on your balancer (it makes seeing them alot easier). A book would probably put you at 6-8 initial (advance unplugged). I usually start there, and then advance until I hear pinging, and then back off a couple degrees. How much mechanical advance does your distributor bring in?

The 390 in my truck was at 20 degrees of initial when I bought it. Starts alot better now

[knucklehead0202]

That car should be a sexy beast! I love the "fuel slayer" carb, lol. Combined with those ports you could get your foot stuck in, that thing should be a monster. Nothing moves the big stuff around like a big block, bar none. Great write up and car man, I love it!

[Grand1]

Looks good in there! You planning on putting the A/C stuff back on it? Best o luck dude!

I am gonna try and make the A/C functional ....by getting some R-12 like stuff....I don't want to retro fit anything at this stage.....I want to kept some semblance of OE feel...so the A/C stays....

[DerekTheGreat]

[Grand1]

....well life happened; so behind schedule

--BUT---

She is fired up!!!!! Holy sh------t.
The rumble....dry fired it for 4 seconds....Hooking up coolant system soon....yall got to hear this
Video forthcoming

[DerekTheGreat]

I was beginning to wonder what happened with you and that machine. Get that video up!