Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

remote start hook up?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    remote start hook up?

    i think im going to pick one up from work (NAPA), mostly just to warm 'er up in the mornings. i dont care about alarms, keyless entry, ect

    my question is how hard it it to hook up? im pretty good with reading electrical but im sure the instructions dont give an exact diagram of where to hook it into a 1980's panther
    1989 Grand Marquis GS

    #2
    easy.

    1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

    1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
    1994 MGM GS Montigua
    2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
    2002 Mustang GT Coupe

    Comment


      #3
      Where's the wiring for the little servo that primes the carburetor for you?
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #4
        This is the same diagram for the most part but includes other things.



        Here are some wiring techniques I would suggest. Soldering is best but this method is fine for interior wiring not being exposed to elements. It also makes it easier to remove the wires so it could be replaced or put into another car. You do a lot less damage to the vehicle wires as well and once you do it like this once, all the wires are prepped if you need to tap into them for anything else. I have had years of good luck using this wiring method for remote starters and alarms.









        PS, once again I have had zero problems with this for remote starter and Alarm systems. This over a time period of 7 years and 6 cars wired. I solder certain things that need it. This does not need to be soldered however if you wish to solder them it will be the best but unnecessary. The wires under your dash are not exposed to very much that would require them be soldered. Plus if you go to remove it or make a mistake installing you have to unsolder stuff and you will probably burn something in your car or yourself with a soldering iron. IMHO.
        Last edited by Guest; 12-09-2010, 01:53 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi

          Urgh!! What a horrible way to join two wires, I always solder my wire joints and heat shrink wrap them.

          Regards

          Dereck
          President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

          Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Dereck View Post
            Hi

            Urgh!! What a horrible way to join two wires, I always solder my wire joints and heat shrink wrap them.

            Regards

            Dereck
            THIS!

            J hook the wires over each other... twist if needed to keep the joint together while soldering. slide over shrink wrap and heat. done. Or use good electrical tape to wrap it.

            vibration in vehicles is not friendly to twisted wires.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              when i student taught we had a student try and install one, they are a major pain in the ass. his had you open up the steering column and start poking around. it took us two days to get the damn thing working.
              What happened here?

              Comment


                #8
                I don't know much about those things, but the only wires you need to get to start and run a box can be easily found under the hood. There must be some feedback to the module to tell it to stop cranking, but that's surely under the hood also.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #9
                  you need to trip on the run line as well as hit the start line until greater than 13.6V is achieved (or so goes the theory). Then a delay timer runs for a set time. If the car is manually put into run (key in turn to run) before the timer goes off... it stays running. If the timeout is reached before the key is turned to on... the car turns off.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Dereck View Post
                    Hi

                    Urgh!! What a horrible way to join two wires, I always solder my wire joints and heat shrink wrap them.

                    Regards

                    Dereck
                    Double this. Electrical tape FTL. Heat shrink and solder FTW!


                    My 91 had a remote start. It didn't work. I used the signal wire left on the coil for a tach instead.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X