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How hard would it be to make these work?

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    How hard would it be to make these work?

    SRP Sullivan Racing Products, Inc. custom aluminum racing pedals made in the United States since 1995.


    I can't imagine there being much difference between pedal styles, but it say 92 up, and It would be fairly killer to make them work in a box. Are there any huge differences between the styles? Can these be adapted to fit?

    I found the link on MM.net, if anyone is wondering.
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

    #2
    I'm guessing the worst case scenario would be you'd have to weld some sort of clamp/clip onto the pedals to mate up with the pedal...arms? levers? whatever you call what the pedals mount onto.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

    Comment


      #3
      I had aftermarket pedals on my car for just under one year. I made custom brackets to the accelerator pedal cover and even chopped the accelerator pedal rubber so all I would see was the new pedal cover. I never liked it because the new accelerator cover was wider and prevented me from mashing the pedal. I guess that is why our pedals are that skinny from the get go because they are already smooshed up against the tranny tunnel. This pedal cover is a bit narrower but you may still end up with the same problem. I will admit though that the covers I had were the bomb but after time I just didnt like them and the factory stock look was much more appealing.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




      Comment


        #4
        methinks this is accomplishable. I don't have a problem with welding, so mealsothinks that I can do it fairly easily.
        Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
        New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

        Comment


          #5
          Looks to me like they have holes for counter-sunk bolts. Could you just drill and tap your pedals? If there's not enough meat there for tapping, you could always tighten a nut against the backside of the pedal.

          Comment


            #6
            Accelerator pedal is all plastic. Dont know if that ruins welding plans or not. lol
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
              Looks to me like they have holes for counter-sunk bolts. Could you just drill and tap your pedals? If there's not enough meat there for tapping, you could always tighten a nut against the backside of the pedal.
              that could also work. I'm under the influence that those are pedals to replace the pedal pads, not go over them. Which would mean there would be bracketry somewhere. Where? I have no idea. I might just have to order a set and see if I can fab anything up.
              Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
              New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

              Comment

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