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    Fill fender gaps in trunk?

    Well I was thinking about trying to make my car quieter by laying down some sound deadner in the trunk and was wondering if filling the "gaps" behind the fenders with fiberglass or whatever filler people use will be a good sound deadner? Has anybody done just the trunk? Did it do anything?
    88 MGM 5.0 stock

    #2
    I have soundeaded the interior into the cavity you are talking about. My car is completely disassembled atm so I cannot say for sure if it made a difference. And if you ever completely tore apart the interior of one of these cars you would find along the way plastic bags filled with some sorta fiber material that was used to suck the moisture out of the car I collected a bunch o those and shoved them into that cavity as well.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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      #3
      try doubleing the sounddeadning material in the bottom back seat areas an the interior wheel well. an door panals add one layer, Thats what i did, the door panels look a bit funky(doesnt look flush) but the car is quiet as hell. try it, it may work.

      Thing is I gutted a '96 chrysler LHS interior an used the sound deading material there, had to make minor adjustments to fit the material but I gotta say with some ambition an tenacity it worked.

      just an idea i thought i might share
      1990 EFI Crown Vic Lx sigpic
      1964 Lincoln Continental (not running)
      1963 Lincoln Continental (running)
      1995 Honda Accord(Stolen)

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        #4
        Thanks for the advise, I'ma take a look under the rear seats tomorrow. I think I'll try filling the trunk cavities and see if it makes a difference.
        88 MGM 5.0 stock

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          #5
          As far as the doors are concerned, it'd work much better to glue sound deadening material against the interior of the outside door skin instead of plastering it behind the door panel itself. That'll help to soften the miniscule vibrations that happen during daily use and will actually make a surprisingly large difference.

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            #6
            Just don't pack loose fiberglass into the gaps. If it gets any moisture in it, it will hang out and rot the metal. You'd be better off with a thin flat sound deadner that will stick to the metal. I bought a few rolls of that ready roof stuff but I haven't yet installed any of it.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              Just don't pack loose fiberglass into the gaps. If it gets any moisture in it, it will hang out and rot the metal. You'd be better off with a thin flat sound deadner that will stick to the metal. I bought a few rolls of that ready roof stuff but I haven't yet installed any of it.
              Yeah, that's the stuff I was talking about. That or Dynamat/SecondSkin/etc.

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                #8
                Dynamat = expensive but it works.
                "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                1985 GMC 1500

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                  #9
                  2nd on the Dynamat. That area seams to have lots of reoccurring rust issues so I'd like reasonable access to monitor and fix any problems. You can go on ebay and buy a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme for a good deal. One pack did my entire floorpan.
                  sigpic
                  1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                  Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
                    2nd on the Dynamat. That area seams to have lots of reoccurring rust issues so I'd like reasonable access to monitor and fix any problems. You can go on ebay and buy a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme for a good deal. One pack did my entire floorpan.
                    Floor pan is just the bottom of the trunk area right? Maybe I should get 2 packs to do the inner fender parts? Did it make a big difference? You guys have stock exhaust right?
                    88 MGM 5.0 stock

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                      #11
                      floorpan is the bottom of the actual interior, basically from where it rises at the rear for the rear seat cushion all the way to where you meet the firewall. the bottom of the trunk is the "trunkpan"

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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                        #12
                        okay thanks.
                        88 MGM 5.0 stock

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