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    #16
    I know on my car the horns (yes i have two sets of two horns) are located in the fenders up near the radiator core support on both the drivers side and passengers side. Probably have to remove a couple things remove old horns and replace with new ones.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #17
      1990 got em on the fender well. One bolt, two plugs, that's it.

      Comment


        #18
        Oh, so that horn bracket I once stole from a ~'90 was in fact stock. I'd wondered about that from time to time. Handy little thing, lots easier to service than the earlier horn-in-fenderwell routine.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

        Comment


          #19
          thread resurrection!

          I just bought one.



          Someone mentioned wiring it through a relay - how and why? I am unclear on the concept of a relay to begin with.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #20
            you wire through a relay so you can get more power safely to the electrical load.

            You will use the original horn signal to trigger the relay to power the horn through a direct wire supplied through from the battery.

            i am busy now...later today i will explain it thoroughly
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #21
              thanks...I vaguely get it. Look forward to more info.


              Thanks a lot, again. You lot on this site are almost entirely responsible for my car working and running properly.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #22
                Here is a diagram i drew up it should work:




                ask away if anything does not make sense.
                Attached Files
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                Comment


                  #23
                  you rule! THANK YOU!
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Hi 87gtVIC

                    Hey mang you realise you have pins 86 & 85 wired backwards, pin 86 should be the switched feed and pin 85 the ground.

                    I know this makes no difference on an unprotected relay but you should always use diode protected relays to save the 400 volt spikes caused by the relay switching reeking havoc with your on board computers.

                    Why not fit some Hadleys?



                    Regards

                    Dereck
                    Last edited by Dereck; 10-17-2009, 04:24 PM.
                    President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

                    Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Dereck View Post
                      Hi 87gtVIC

                      Hey mang you realise you have pins 86 & 85 wired backwards, pin 86 should be the switched feed and pin 85 the ground.

                      I know this makes no difference on an unprotected relay but you should always use diode protected relays to save the 400 volt spikes caused by the relay switching reeking havoc with your on board computers.

                      Regards

                      Dereck
                      Hey Dereck

                      I did not know I had them reversed, I have read about them not mattering in certain applications but am sure glad you pointed that out. I will be sure to wire everything from now on that way.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        #26
                        Horns draw high current. You don't have to use a relay, but be sure to have a fat gauge wire to compensate for the heat that's going to be produced when the horn is on. Relays allow low current power to control high current power.

                        If you wanted all of the horns to work at the same time, parallel would be your best bet, since all of the horns will get what it needs from the battery. In that case, you would need to upgrade the circuit to handle the extra current flow. Series would hinder the performance of the horns, making them quieter, because they're not getting the proper voltage.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                          Will a pre-'85 multifunction switch bolt up to your column? If so, that could be one convenient way to actuate a second horn.

                          BTW, factory horns used relays at least by '87. I discovered this while investigating why some juryrigged horn wiring left my horns all quiet and tinny-sounding.
                          so I have a relay in there already? Don't need another?
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #28
                            horn is in and works great.. two spade connectors on the existing double horn thing and one common ground (ring terminal) so i snipped one of the spade connectors spliced it onto the ground instead of the ring. i gotta go out and tidy up the wiring a tiny bit but it's fine, and loud as fuck.
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                              so I have a relay in there already? Don't need another?
                              Probably; and probably not unless it's gone bad.


                              Loud = good (at least where horns are concerned!)
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Yeah, from what I've been reading, if it wasn't getting enough juice it would be performing at like 50% of normal. It's supposed to be 110 or 112 db, something like that...anyway, I don't have my decibel meter here, but I am pretty familiar with acoustics/sound/whatever you want to call it, and if this is less than 100db I'm gonna eat my hat.
                                sigpic


                                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                                Comment

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