.... who knows where I can locate a pair, either new or good used? My retractors won't retract, which strikes me as sort of, well, unsafe ... so I'd like to replace them before I start driving the car again. Color that coordinates with burgundy preferred, but I'm somewhat flexible.
 |
-
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
-
yo that happened to me too I just wrap it around the head rest lol I would like to get that rpelacedsigpic1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph -
Can't you just lubricate the mechanisms? I would tend to think they're just a bit stiffened up rather than being broken...
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8Comment
-
does yours have the push buttons on the corner of the door jam ??? cus mine did the same thing and come to find out when we took the seat belt mechanism out, the cable was broke, so the seat belt wouldnt go back in. so we just took the cable and the mechanism off, so now it pulls out and goes back just fine, but we dont know if it still atuomatically locks like when you stop hard---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My Toy
Comment
-
I suppose it's worth a try! I'd hoped the belt was just folded under the upper guide as had happened with the front p/s belt on the '79, but no such luck.Originally posted by Nathan in MN View Post
Yeah, I think they all have those door jamb buttons. Didn't know there was a cable involved ... so if I'm hearing you right, depressing the button when the door is closed normally pulls on this cable, which can then become jammed in place and result in the mechanism not releasing the belt? I shall have to have a look and see if I can figure out how to get mine apart.Originally posted by Bowman85merc View Post
Alternatively, if you know how to get the belt off of the retractor mechanism itself ..... but nevermind, my spare pair of retractors are for a four-door application and they're set up for the shorter travel of the four-door seatbelts.
BTW, my experience is that the locking function can often be tested by just giving the belt a sharp jerk by hand. I try to make sure to do that when swapping belts around like I've been doing in the wagon to make sure stuff seems to be safe.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
Comment
-
The way I look at it is, the grease in there is 27 years old. It's undoubtedly all dried up and crusty. Stuff isn't gonna work like it's supposed to with that crap in there. Clean it out, relubricate it and I bet you they'll work like brandy new.
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8Comment
-
Four-point rollcage and 4-point harnesses. Problem solved.
And...your wife will love them on Sunday
Comment
-
My tudor had that problems for years and was fixed once by the dealership when new. The problem is the retractor button and the cable that goes from it to the assembly, mainly it being in a tight spot and breaking the cable up. I had the belt kotted for a long time to somewhat help keep me from being ejected from the car and tried to track down a blue tudor seatbelt set with no luck. What I ended up doing wad getting any assemby from a Mark VII, because the reatractor had a Ford & Lincoln number on it and figured it was worth a shot. The assember didn't fit but I was able to take it apart and swap over the button & cable onto my orinal assembly. The seatbelt now works just as it should.
Here's a link to my original thread.
Driver's Seatbelt Interchange
sigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.Comment
-
I was thinking that myself...Originally posted by torquelover View Post**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck DutiesComment
-
Yeah, clean and lube and I think there is a wire that goes to em IIRC. I can't imagine they're completely shot.Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/Comment
-
Well, I finally got back to this little issue and figured out how to remove the necessary trim panels and pulled the passenger side seatbelt retracter. After some fiddling, I was able to get that annoying blue plastic casing off and eventually remove the cable. Looks like it'll work just fine without the cable, just maybe have to give it an extra tug before you get out of the car. Nothing else at all wrong with the thing, it seems. Other side should be fine too once I exercise some persuasion with a stubborn mounting bolt. I had previously had no idea the two-door retractors mounted the plunger remotely from the assembly itself rather than integrally like the four-door units. Thanks a bunch for all the input, everyone!2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
Comment
-
Funny this should come up, the belts on Tom's car don't work right either. Handy that VII parts fit, as there are two parts cars on the property.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
Yea, you just swap over that cable from the Mark VII's retractor. I suspect other apps. may work also, I just noticed the Lincoln part # on it and figured the Mark VII seemed like a good bet. The retractor didn't look like it'd come apart easily but it's not so bad in the end and it goes back looking the way it should. For some reason on my tudor, the cable seems to have a tight bend where it's likely to crack and then start catching.sigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.Comment
-
The retractor button on my drivers side went again. This time it's the spring inside the button itself. It rusted out and wore the cable to where it's going to need to be replaced as well. If anyone has a spare assembly for tudor or Mark VII they'd be willing to sell please let me know. Thankssigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.Comment
Comment