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    Ignition Switch Help

    Hey everyone. I just had my alarm put in and when I drove the car home I lost all interior power (windows, wipers, radio, gauges, ect.). It wasn't fun driving down Rt. 22 in a downpour w/o wipers, but Rain X is a good thing. Anyway, I got the shroud off and I figured it was something ignition related (was thinking the cylinder), and I find the ignition switch below the cylinder is a little loose, I can push in further in a bit and it gives me power, ect. I'm thinking they much have disturbed it some doing the alarm wiring. The installer had said he noticed it was loose and going to zip-tie it but then he got it working. I just want to fix it so it's dependable because the car's cut off on me a few times when moving it. Below is a pic of a part from RockAuto (MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2474 {#F29Z11572D}). I just want to confirm this is the right one, and if there's anything I need to know replacing it. I haven't taken it apart yet so I can keep the car somewhat drivable, but I'm guessing they broke a tab?
    Attached Files
    sigpic
    1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
    Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

    #2
    That looks like the right part man, however to remove the original one you will most likely need a tamper-proof T25 bit, if a regular torx bit won't fit don't attempt using anything else, just go to the store and buy a set of the hollow-center torx bits that fit in a screwdriver, they're only like $6-7. Also when installing the new switch do yourself a favor and use regular screwdriver bolts, in case you need to replace the switch again at some point and the torx bits ain't with you for whatever reason. Zip-tieing the switch shouldn't be necessary unless the harness plug is damaged, at that point zip-tieing is generally a good idea cause these steering columns can shake quite a bit.

    Comment


      #3
      MLSC made very good points. Most auto parts stores will carry that switch in stock for $10-20. You NEED the hollow tip torx bits.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the info guys, I think the harness plug was further damaged when they were splicing in the alarm system wiring. It's pretty loose and almost seems like it wants to fall out. My Dad has the security Torx so I might just reuse them. I'm going to order it from RockAuto today and get it taken care of.
        sigpic
        1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
        Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

        Comment


          #5
          some times that switch gets loose between the metal and plastic...the tabs seem to wear out, my bros 89 lsc had the same prob so i put wire around just in case and pushed the tabs back in.

          1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
          1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
          1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
          2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
          2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

          Comment


            #6
            Those are one of the big causes of fires in Fords. I'd strongly suggest replacing it. Mine was going out on me, radio would cut out, the turn signals quit working unless I turned the tumbler a tiny bit, other wierd bs. New switch and it quit giving me problems.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Yea, my stereo and gauges would cut off while driving every once in awhile and the tumbler jiggle would fix it. I think the people just made it a little worse when they did the alarm but it was already going. I already ordered the part and hope to get it in the car soon. Funny thing is my Dad said he remembers replacing a switch on the column awhile back. He said the if you'd push on the wheel, say to tilt it up without pushing the tilt lever it'd fix the problem. So I'm guessing this may be the second time it went or is there another further down? When I was searching the threads I kept hearing about the ignition switch that everyone had break apart on them when working on it (one post had pics). Maybe this is that one, I just can't tell unless it's off the column to get a better look at it.
              sigpic
              1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
              Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

              Comment


                #8
                Thats probably the one. Depending how long ago it was replaced (and it does look like it actually) it may not have been the revised design. Not sure when those came out but there was some change made to make them less crappy. The screws on yours are security bit torx. The factory ones have these wierd non-heads that look sort of like the end of a rivet. Best way to get those out is with one of those sockets designed for removing rounded off bolts. I think the factory ones had a head that would shear off when it got tight enough, making removal a real pain in the ass.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  My dad must have done changed it the mid-90's. I hope the new one is the revised design like you had mentioned. I got the Motocraft one, especially given it's kind of a notorious part on these cars. I'll take pics when I change it so you can see the shape. I have no idea what to expect, something crispy?
                  sigpic
                  1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                  Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    hopefully not, but don't be surprised if the switch falls apart when you try to unplug it.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I replaced it a few days ago.The two screws had that reddish threading on them. They came out nice and easy and I just reused them. As soon as I got the screws off the switch fell apart in my hand. The metal part of the switch has tabs that overlap onto the plastic and they were bent straight so it was just coming apart. The contacts inside were blackish and dirty, and there was some brown/scorch marks in the plug. The black harness actually came out easy, despite what I was expecting. It was a little warped but not really melted and no cracks so I reused it and it went together just fine. I must have lucked out because this was one of the easiest parts on the car I've replaced. I figured that when the alarm people were tapping into the ign. wires, they undid the plug and were prob a little rough with it because one tab on the black plug was broken and of course the switch was falling apart. I'll post picks of the old part if you'd like.
                      sigpic
                      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        glad you fixed it......i'm gentle with panthers, bring it to me sometime for a checkup

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I definitely want to make a visit up to you sometime. I have a few upgrades in mind like the 3g alt, thicker front sway bar, add a rear sway bar, new body mounts, and preventative maintenance. My Dad "hate's Fords" so the car was a little neglected over the years but never abused.

                          Almost forgot, I have some shots of the old switch. The car's an 86' with 81,000mi.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by 86GmLsCoupe; 11-27-2007, 03:21 PM. Reason: forgot to add pics
                          sigpic
                          1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                          Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                          Comment

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