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    Window help

    So I finally get around to tackling the front windows. The plan is to get them working again hopefully by replacing the regulator bushings, cause I dont think the motors are dead. I get the door panel off only to find out I have to remove the rivets holding the motors in (if Id read ahead in the shop manual Id have known this). No problemo, but now I have to get some screws to hold it in place when I put it back. At least the track/ guide assemblage looks clean.

    My question is do I have to remove the glass prior to removing the motor to replace the bushings?

    Any tips/ advice would be awesome. I really want my windows to work again.


    1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

    #2
    You meen the biskets in the gear set in the window motors? If so you dont drill out the rivets. Rivets should be replaced with rivets. Some of were the rivets are blind on the other side verry limited if aany access.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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      #3
      Are you talking about the motor or the regulator???

      The replacable bushings inside the motor are what commonly goes bad, and NO rivets need to be removed to remove the motor.
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #4
        There are 3 divets on the bottom of the door where you need to drill access holes to take out the 3 5/16" bolts that hold the motor in. NO rivets are to be remove.
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #5
          Originally posted by 85crownHPP*
          Are you talking about the motor or the regulator???

          The replacable bushings inside the motor are what commonly goes bad, and NO rivets need to be removed to remove the motor.
          I believe the bushings I need to replace are in the motor.


          1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

          Comment


            #6
            then yes dont touch any rivets - heres my window motor thread from the archives - hope it helps!

            This is an Archive of info for vacuum, electrical, HVAC and CFI specific info - *read only*
            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
            sigpic
            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

            Comment


              #7
              just drill out the door to get to the bolts......you dont wanna remove the whole regulator.....that's a pita

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

              Comment


                #8
                Holes were already drilled. Got the motor out and replaced the bushings. Motor's fried. Looks like it had been replaced already judging from the holes and the "remanufactured" sticker on the window motor. Anyone replace a motor and what brand you use? Read the thread, dont know if I want to bother fixing the motor if its the brushes. It looks like a cheap piece o crap.
                Last edited by 91 LTD; 11-03-2006, 01:00 AM.


                1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

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                  #9
                  So I ended up buying a new motor for the driver's side. The old remanufactured one just looked so cheap I figured why even bother trying to fix it. My question is w/ the motor out should the window be able to go down on its own? Cause right now it don't budge. Am gonna lube the crap out of everything while Im at it.


                  1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

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                    #10
                    I know on my Crown Vic, The windows were going up and down really slow... so I cleaned up all the tracks, They had MAJOR gunk, sand, and dirt on them... and put some lubri-plate (or you can use white lithium grease) on all the sliders, and tracks... and it went twice as fast.... This may be why the motor burned up in your car... it was having to work extra hard to get the window up and down.... Usually, you have to put a wedge in the window to keep it from falling when you pull the motor and regulator out... as there is nothing to keep the window up! Tom...


                    Agent Caitlin Todd… You know Tony, Statistics show that married men live longer…
                    Agent Tony DiNozzo… It only seems longer….

                    http://www.tomspolicecars.com/

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                      #11
                      Motor's in, window jumps up and down like a gazelle, smooth as silk. Went w/ the $60 motor. Works great. Tracks, etc., were all in good order, now lubed too. 1 down 3 to go, at least all their motors still work. Much thanks for everyone's advice and info.


                      1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

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                        #12
                        Those reman motors seem to kind of suck. The cheap motors also dont seem to work out so well. I've had better luck rebuilding old Ford motors than with new cheapie motors.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #13
                          Went new w/ a $60 Siemens, works great. Hopefully the others havent been replaced w/ remanufactured too. Thurs,= new bushing 4 front pass window.


                          1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

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