Originally posted by monterey1962
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Monty's 1978 Case 446
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1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
GMN Box Panther History
Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
Box Panther Production Numbers
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This is a fun/neat project. Looking forward to seeing more of your progress with it!-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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V8 swap you say? Hmm.
I pulled the rear main bearing cover off because I was concerned about the crankshaft journal that I had cleaned up. I don't know what to do with it, other than run it and see what happens. They sell downsized bearings, but I didn't really feel like messing with taking it to a machine shop. Hoping this doesn't bite me in the ass. Rear bearing has a few scuffs on it from when I originally test fit it before cleaning up the crank.
I was going to rebuild the carb tonight, but upon disassembly, I found what looked to be a recently rebuilt carb. Gaskets looked good and were not brittle. Everything is clean. I reassembled it, and plan to run it as is.
The mechanical fuel pump was bypassed by a previous owner. This tractor has an electric fuel pump mounted under the tractor, and a mess of wiring to go along with it. I have no idea how this mechanical pump works. Need to do some research on hooking things up.
Edit: This is a pretty good video on this carb. https://youtu.be/yaoJHdrl3kQLast edited by monterey1962; 08-26-2021, 11:38 PM.
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The guy in that video is right, the manual does show it assembled: plate, gasket, diaphragm, pump, rubber gasket, carb. The pump on my carb is assembled in the wrong order, and has an extra gasket installed. I'm thinking I'd better pull this carb apart again and make sure everything else is properly installed.
Edit: Btw, that mystery pin looks just like the pin that holds the float in the carb.Last edited by monterey1962; 08-27-2021, 12:07 AM.
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Confirmed, the mystery pin is a carb float pin. Don't know why it was in the timing cover.
Rebuilt the carb since things were done wrong. Adjusted to specs. Installed the carb, intake, and rear coupling on the engine.Last edited by monterey1962; 08-28-2021, 12:00 AM.
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in the carb, in the timing cover, same thing. Has to be in the engine, and any place is good right?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Degreased the underside of the tractor since the motor was out. Removed the electric fuel pump and wiring. Had to pull the fuel tank in order to install new 1/4" fuel line. Engine is in, and the majority of parts are assembled. Took a while to get the front belt drive clutch adjusted right.
Will try to wrap it up tomorrow and see if it runs.
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It runs, but I'm not happy with it. Spent HOURS trying to figure out a "no start" situation that ended up being fairly simple. Problem was, turning the key would only get one click from the solenoid. Went through most of the wiring, cleaned connections, replaced connectors, tested voltage, etc. Fu ... cking ... HOURS. Realized I was getting power at the starter, but the starter wasn't doing anything. Pulled a heat shield, and found that the starter gear was engaged, but jammed on the flywheel. After much more time of messing with that, I finally figured out that the starter gear was too tight when locked into the flywheel. It would spin the flywheel half a turn and stop. Starter bolts are in a very bad location to access, but I managed to loosen the top bolt. That made a big difference, but starting still requires putting the pry bar in there and nudging the starter away from the block a tiny bit for it to properly spin the flywheel smoothly.
A correction on info: I kept calling this a B43G, when it's actually a B43M. Well, a B43M-GA, to be more specific.
The reason I'm not happy is because this thing is LOUD. How loud? My neighbors closed their windows after I got it driving, type of loud. Ear protection is required to run this thing, and it's not the muffler that's bad. It's the engine itself. I can't tell if the motor is going to self destruct, or if this is how it's supposed to sound. It sounds like it did when the rear main bearing was bad, but with a more "rattling" sound. Kind of like loose heat shields banging. I'm disappointed in the outcome and myself, but that's the way it is. With parts, oil, and misc. items, I've got around $400 into it.
As of now, I'm thinking about selling it, but I want to mess with it more before making a decision.
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that sounds awful loud but high pitch like valvetrain noise. Is the tappet clearance OK ? Wrist pins also tend to be higher pitch like that.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Pulled the heads. Could not see anything that would be an issue. Intake valves were at spec. Right side exhaust valve was too tight. Adjusted to spec. Points breaker gap was close to where it should be. Adjusted to spec. Installed the new head gaskets that came with the gasket kit.
Got too late to start it and see if there is a difference.
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It might just be an old rattle trap and be in need of rubber mounts and resonator style intake and exhaust (those T pipes that go nowhere to help drown out the noise).
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Cranks, but won't start. With the exception of the three times that it fired up and ran for three seconds, then died. I'm getting spark at the plugs. Tested the coil and all seemed good. Fuel filter is full of fuel and is located about 5 inches from the fuel pump. I even tried pouring a little fuel down the carb, and it wouldn't start that way.
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