Originally posted by Bobcat
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1962 Jeep
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Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 05-19-2016, 07:40 AM.
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I would totally remove that bracket on the rear cross beam or at least cut it flush with the rear beam so that if some shit happens and you get rear ended, it doesn't instantly puncture the gas tank.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Jeeps with stock power aren't safe to operate on flat ground at more than 25 mph, so I don't know that concerns about extra power and making them less safe are overly valid. You're driving a tin can with no doors, seat belts, or roof. You should already be driving it accordingly.
That said, a turbo really doesn't serve any purpose on a Jeep other than "hey look at me" value. It would likely never wind up enough to make the turbo actually spin, or at least you probably shouldn't. An N/A 4 banger would do all thats needed.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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gadget73: Oh, it came with lap belts bolted in! Down the line I could maybe see putting some really good seats and 3 or 5 point harnesses in it, but the high back seats that came with it do slide a little, not that *I* need any forward adjustment at all. Gonna pick up some more tape and gloss black paint today, and see how much progress we can make this weekend.
Sly: no worries, the seam of the gas tank is resting on the back part of the frame/cradled in the skid plate. If I get rear ended, the seam edge will push in and probably split like a banana peel.
...Maybe I should get some life insurance so if I die, I'll get rich!
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Looks like the pinion depth is way the hell out of whack. You shouldn't have pecker tracks on the carrier, and it sure looks like the ring gear is rubbing on something. Not sure if its the carrier assembly is moved inward, or the pinion is in too far but something is not where it belongs.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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yeah, I think this is going to the shop to be re-set up, the pinion/yoke or whatever on the rear moves in and out some, 4.11 gears if I read the number soup correctly, one side looks like it has a 76 & other looks like 84, so are those the R & L axle years? Should I look at different gear ratio? I probably won't be off-roading or mudding much if ever, but it may be smarter to leave it 4.11 with the gutless Iron Duke. I think people will be understanding if they have to pass me if I'm only doing 60-65 max on the highway.
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The ratio probably isn't the problem, though it will of course limit your top speed somewhat.
The 10 12 65 on the ring gear sure looks like a date code to me though. The two digit number stamped into the bearing retainers also may be a year code. Or not.
Part of the problem is that its a Jeep. I think every one of them is built at least partly from random bullshit from other years and models. Figuring out precisely what you have always seems to involve taking it apart and then trying to figure out what it came from in the first place.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Yes I guess they are kind of like a panther that has been owned by a member of this forum in that you never know what parts you are going to find.03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Yup, the ratio is the "41-11" stamped on the ring gear, means 41 teeth on the ring and 11 on the pinion, so actually you got 3.73 gears in that axle. I'd leave them be, it's a good compromise between low-end power and highway speeds capability. And yes you got side-specific axles (obviously, since the pumpkin is off-center), however the stamps on the main caps should not have to do anything with that - the actual part number for the shafts will be on the shaft themselves. Actually, this being a Dana, it's gotta have a BOM number somewhere on it, typically it's stamped on the passenger-side axle tube on the back side (facing the gas tank on your case) near the pumpkin - if you can find that you can plug it in here and hopefully you'll find everything Dana knows about your axle:
Also, if you actually do plan on going somewhat fast with this thing, do consider reversing the shackles on the front springs - basically you move them from the front eye of the leaves to the rear, just like how the rears are done. Or at the very least add some sort of a Panhard bar (tracbar) to locate the axle laterally - '86-'97 F350 4x4s have the same retarded spring setup and they're well know for their horrible handling especially once the tracbar bushings wear out, can't imagine how bad it would be with no tracbar at all.
On the flip side of all that, it appears that you have a Powr-Lok limited-slip diff, those are rebuildable and very customizable and all-around pretty great diffs.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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