My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

[DerekTheGreat]

Wow, I'm surprised the headlights were still closed. I think Ford states "acceptable" as three days or something silly like that. Wait until it's like 5 degrees, everything loves when it's that cold.

I started my '88 last week, I think it was 20 degrees or so. It fired up but idled really low. I decided to see if it would correct itself, but after 8 seconds or so, the idle went lower and it died. Fired it back up and gave it a stab of the go-go juice. Drove it all day. Nice car.

[mercurygm88]

Due to weather and laziness it had been two weeks plus since I had started the Lincoln. So last night when it was 19 degrees I decided to go out to the garage and let it warm up. Headlights were still closed fully and it started right up. I’m having really good luck with EEC-III CFI so far. “Knock on wood.”

[DerekTheGreat]

Yah, as Vic said, the ole blue wrench is a good alternative. Good bye paint though.

[VicCrownVic]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I found someone with Snap-On impacts from 1/2” to 1” and impact torx sockets. I don’t know when I’ll get the chance to mess with it but that should get them out.

Hopefully, since the car seems to have been cared for, you won't have much issue. Even the easy ones take a good amount of force though.
I also put anti-sieze on the bolts I re-install like others mentioned because I know how bad they can get. Doing this should help the job to not suck as bad if there is a next time.

[Tiggie]

The Napa tool line did well for me on the torx bits. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHTS...pressionRank=5

[Mainemantom]

I have one frozen bolt in one of the Lincolns. I ended out stripping the bolt even with the proper tools. Don't know what I will do except leave it alone. All the others through the years have come out pretty easy. I do have extra bolts if you need one.

[mercurygm88]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I found someone with Snap-On impacts from 1/2” to 1” and impact torx sockets. I don’t know when I’ll get the chance to mess with it but that should get them out.

[friskyfrankie]

Some come out with no problem others don't. I've broken a few impact T50 bits within the past couple years on 2 cars using a 1/2 breaker bar and dad's old pneumatic impact. (Sunex bits, time to find another brand, open to suggestions, but these were cheap on Ebay, LOL). This was after applying Liquid Wrench top and bottom months in advance and then again the day before and day of the next attempt. I even hammered on that bolt like Derek mentioned.
Next step when it gets warm again (and after I buy a few more impact T50s) is to get the fire wrench out. All to replace the C-pillar interior panel in the Scab. (3-point belt goes through the panel and has to be unbolted from the floor). I even broke a bit on the same bolt on the JY donor car. For some reason the P-side came out of both cars with no issue, but D-side on the JY '90 and my '91 didn't and aren't budging.

Wow! Sounds like you did all the proper steps so as Dave said, the first time is the most difficult. Good idea about putting anti seize on the threads before re installing them!

[87gtVIC]

Yes. I have removed them before. First time hurts for sure. As said soak it from underneath. Broken a couple bits but eventually got them out. Been fine ever since as I cleaned up the corrosion and coated the threads in anti seize.

[VicCrownVic]

Some come out with no problem others don't. I've broken a few impact T50 bits within the past couple years on 2 cars using a 1/2 breaker bar and dad's old pneumatic impact. (Sunex bits, time to find another brand, open to suggestions, but these were cheap on Ebay, LOL). This was after applying Liquid Wrench top and bottom months in advance and then again the day before and day of the next attempt. I even hammered on that bolt like Derek mentioned.
Next step when it gets warm again (and after I buy a few more impact T50s) is to get the fire wrench out. All to replace the C-pillar interior panel in the Scab. (3-point belt goes through the panel and has to be unbolted from the floor). I even broke a bit on the same bolt on the JY donor car. For some reason the P-side came out of both cars with no issue, but D-side on the JY '90 and my '91 didn't and aren't budging.

[friskyfrankie]

Not sure about rear seat bolts but I've done the fronts (on a few Fords) with a REALLY old Craftsman powered Impact Tool and they did come out. Not easy but I didn't break anything - just let some PB Blaster soak on them for a few days prior to removal and all was well.

[DerekTheGreat]

I think I've done this on a GM car or Ford truck at some point. I put the correct size bit in on an extension that I didn't care about and then beat the shit out of that extension with a 3lb or 5lb hammer for a good while. The first bit broke and so that was my last ditch option. It worked.

[sly]

I use a half inch breaker bar and I've twisted some bits, but never managed to break any. I was using solid impact bits though. I have broken the impact swivel joints on that job though. My corded electric 1/2 impact couldn't get it out without the breaker bar to get it started. But then the impact made out ok. That was the first time. Each time since I've only needed a 3/8 ratchet.

[gadget73]

Spray the bolts from underneath first. Can't hurt.

but yes I've done it, and I've also broken bits. Its a bitch, I suggest good bits and an impact along with a reserve of good swear words.

[Tiggie]

I tried doing them by hand (as I have always done with every other seatbelt, ever). No dice. Broke the bit.

Tried my air impact and my dad's that has never let him down on anything. No dice. Broke another bit.

Got it red with a torch, repeated above. Nothing. I thought I was sunk.

Had a friend with a 1/2" cordless impact from his work. Don't recall the brand or the specs. With a long impact torx bit, they came right out.