Prudence, my 87 Town Car

[gadget73]

50ma seems like too much draw, and 12.4v is too low, especially if thats with the engine running.

[Lutrova]

The old battery was, in fact, toast. I've purchased a Motorcraft group 65 850 CCA to replace it, which I understand will require some modification to the battery tray. Is there a later battery tray that will bolt in to my car, or are the Aeros too different?

The 12.4v reading was with the engine off, but when cranking it fell somewhere below 10v. No good. I had read somewhere that 12.4v was something like 75% charge, which I could believe after making eight trips of five minutes or less in the previous two days.

50mA was a figure thrown out somewhere on the internet as an acceptable draw for a newer car, but I can see how a Box would pull less. What range should I be looking to hit? It's also possible that either I or my multimeter are somewhat defective.

[Tiggie]

I haven't tested either of my boxes, but my 94 Mustang and 99 S10 run 6-10mA. Both will still drain the battery sitting over three weeks, which I chalk up to weak batteries that are due for replacement.

[friskyfrankie]

The old battery was, in fact, toast. I've purchased a Motorcraft group 65 850 CCA to replace it, which I understand will require some modification to the battery tray. Is there a later battery tray that will bolt in to my car, or are the Aeros too different?

The 12.4v reading was with the engine off, but when cranking it fell somewhere below 10v. No good. I had read somewhere that 12.4v was something like 75% charge, which I could believe after making eight trips of five minutes or less in the previous two days.

50mA was a figure thrown out somewhere on the internet as an acceptable draw for a newer car, but I can see how a Box would pull less. What range should I be looking to hit? It's also possible that either I or my multimeter are somewhat defective.

If I remember correctly, you can use a dremel to trim down the piece on the bottom of the trey so the larger battery will fit. I did so on my friend's '88 CV and it fits with no problem. Good choice of battery you made as well. My friend has the same one and so far has over 5 years on it with no issues!

[gadget73]

86 used a goofy batt, I don't know what 87 had. 88+ should accept a group 65.

10ma or less is normal in most cases.

[friskyfrankie]

Yeah, 87 used a "small" battery and I think 88 did as well. My solution, above, does work. I know 87 used the smaller battery, for sure, as I also used this method to fit the Group 65 into it.

[sly]

I think the small battery was group 58?

[Lutrova]

Someone had already hacked up the tray, so the 65 dropped right in. After revisiting the current draw, I can safely say I have no idea what it really is. My multimeter reads 0.03 or 0.3 whether I'm on the 10A, 200mA, or 20mA settings. So I could be drawing anywhere from 30mA to 0.3mA, or my multimeter is broken.

The door chime ringing even with the key out and lights off is still strange, and something to figure out later, but probably not the cause of my battery dying.

My latest problem is a coolant leak somewhere above the front of the intake manifold. Coolant pools on the manifold itself and down in the two low spots over the timing cover. Hoses feel dry, though, so I'm thinking it's the little bit of pipe that comes up from the aluminum where the coolant temp sensor threads in. The service manual doesn't seem to cover this pipe, so I'm wondering if it's a serviceable part or if it's somehow integral to the manifold?

[87gtVIC]

That will thread out. They can be really tight in there but absolutely thread out.

[Lutrova]

I assume I'll need some heat to get it out or I risk cracking the aluminum?

Once it's out, are there any replacement parts?

[gadget73]

yep, just screws in. Assuming it doesn't just crumble to nothing.

For whatever its worth I've been using a 65 battery in my original 1986 tray for years. I removed the metal thing that the hold-down hooks to and knocked the studs out that held it in place. I've never had a hold-down in the car. I really should do something better than the bungee cord thats been in there for 10 years but whatever.

[friskyfrankie]

yep, just screws in. Assuming it doesn't just crumble to nothing.

For whatever its worth I've been using a 65 battery in my original 1986 tray for years. I removed the metal thing that the hold-down hooks to and knocked the studs out that held it in place. I've never had a hold-down in the car. I really should do something better than the bungee cord thats been in there for 10 years but whatever.

As John Candy said in "Splash", "If you've got something that works - just stick with it"!

[Mainemantom]

"The door chime ringing even with the key out and lights off is still strange, and something to figure out "

I have had that problem before. New good quality ignition switch fixed the issue.
My 96 CV does that occasionally. I just wiggle the switch and it stops.

[Lutrova]

A new ignition switch wouldn't be too bad, and it'd give me an excuse to get the doors and ignition on the same key. I didn't notice this issue before I did the heater core, so it's possible I pinched or jostled something in the steering column when putting the trim back on. That whole column is already a little wonky. Last I remember the turn signal will resume the cruise control, while some of the steering wheel buttons are inoperable.

As for the pipe coming off the intake, my concern isn't as much about whether it will come off, so much as once it does are there and replacement parts to put back on? I suppose at the end of the day it's just a T-fitting with different sized threads for the ECT sensor and manifold. But I suspect those threads are not the same size, or maybe even something you can find off the shelf.

[DerekTheGreat]

As John Candy said in "Splash", "If you've got something that works - just stick with it"!

Or as I've heard it, "A temporary solution is the most permanent solution known to man."