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I just cleaned two fuel tank filler pipes that were rusty and corroded. I used a furnace brush inside the tube to remove the scaly stuff, put the gas caps on and rinsed the insides with Acetone. I let them air dry and then filled them with Red-coat gas tank sealer. Poured the excess back in the can to save it for other gas tank jobs. I also dipped the bottom end of the filler pipes to cover the rust on the outside. WagonMan
Attached Files
89 Colony Park
90 Colony Park
70 HEMI Daytona Convertible
I've briefly looked into Red-Kote before, it's a product I'm intending to get some of in the future. For this filler neck, I got it as de-rusted as practical, sandblasted it a bit further, then just put it in...figured I'll start hoarding good junkyard filler necks as I find them and by the time this one is an issue again I should have a good one ready to go. I actually do have a spare sedan filler neck as it is, but it needs metal repair. Not rusty, just some sort of weird failure where the two pieces get put together near the gas cap.
Today, got the tank assembled and put into the car. Used a mostly-good (little jumpy but works) sending unit I had hanging around.
Swapped the rear springs out for CC817s, but finding the car is a bit harsh now (I may have just ruined the surprise).
Deleted a mouse nest from the air filter box, put a new filter in.
Starts, runs, shifts, drives, and stops!
Has a bad miss on probably only one cylinder. Drives like it has 2.73 gears, no door sticker so unsure at this time what it has, but it does drive like 2.73s. Some sort of nasty driveline shudder as well, might be a seized U-joint since it got better after putting some kilometres on.
Still a lot more to come, and soon. Finishing undercoating on the tank is coming quick. Just left the bottom clean to make installation suck less.
I've never seen a breaded and deep fried sender before.
—John
1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)
The headlights, IIRC, are Sylvania. Colour temperature makes me think they're Xtravision. They do not seem to be SilverStar. They're kind of crap to be honest, but that might be a voltage thing.
The deep-fried fuel sender amazingly does work, so I'm going to try to save it...I do of course suspect the metal is seriously compromised and may just fall apart but we'll see.
Progress for today @ 195,867km
Replaced the U-joints in pursuit of the driveline vibration noticed when driving it after the fuel tank went in. One joint was seized. New ones went in.
Replaced the spark plugs chasing the misfire. Autolite copper came out in decent condition. Motorcraft copper went in. Found cap and rotor are in poor condition and plug wire routing may be encouraging inductive cross-firing.
Inspected front end for play (found only a little bit of slop in bearings, which will be repacked), inspected rear axle for bearing play (found none), inspected rear brakes for condition (found they were rebuilt with new stuff including cylinders recently by mileage, they look fantastic). Swapped the original coil springs back in the rear to see if it fixes the rock-hard awful ride I noticed after putting on the cheap shocks and CC817 springs.
The trans mount is toast (the mount itself - not the crossmember, that is fine). I think I have one hanging around. Might also not bother, depending on how things sound and feel.
Test drive shows misfire remains, so will proceed with further ignition stuff.
Test drive did show driveline vibration is gone (coast at road speed in neutral to isolate it from the misfire).
Car starts easily with no drama and seems to run strong even considering the misfire.
I agree that #3 is the only one showing any potential reason/evidence of the misfire.
The layout is exactly as they appear in the engine, but laid out on the trunklid, which is why it looks weird to you but normal to me.
Sticking injector is totally possible, the car has sat for a long time, and was run (before I had it) with the garbage fuel before the pump died. I'll get into the diagnostics of that probably next weekend. Also looking forward to playing with my fancy code reader again.
I had the whole car up to do the u-joints, and just rolled around under the whole thing on my creeper. This thing is incredibly rust-free. The undercoating goo has done its job.
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