My 1968 Mustang Rustang

[Tiggie]

I posted over in the Vintage Mustang Forum. Among some of their ideas was too much oil in the system. I definitely went for the higher amount. Since the compressor is leaking, I think that will help itself over time. Another suggested to ditch the propane based refrigerant. Not ready to do that yet.

May go for a cruise this weekend now that the weather is a little more seasonable around 82 and see what it does. I'm not worried too much about it. It will work eventually. First time is never the charm when I am learning.

[sly]

I'll +1 the IR blocking tint. My 93 thanks me for changing to that this year. My AC works much less than it has in the past. I've not been sweating when I get home this year so far and we've had plenty of 100+ days with real feel in the 110 range. It's been on max, but it's been enough to keep me comfortable by the time I get home. And my drive is 10-15 minutes depending on lights.

[Giraffe]

We had the same experience in Wichita Falls when we had our 2012 Mazda 5 tinted. The AC definitely didn't have to work as hard.

[DerekTheGreat]

+1 For the special UV blocking tint. Did that on my Town Car years ago and no matter what it's like outside, I can get ice cubes on the inside. Was not like that before.

[matth825]

Another +1 for the tint. I have Llumar CTX ceramic 35% all the way around on my 85 CV. I was astounded at the difference it made. I used to have to keep the AC on recirc with high fan on 95 degree days. After the tint I’m down to the lowest fan speed after about 15 minutes. Even that still gets a little chilly.


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[Tiggie]

I've seen considering nice window tint for the F350. Maybe I need some here too. I don't want it dark in this car. I see Llumar makes a clear version that still blocks a significant amount of heat. I will certainly consider it.

[matth825]

My tint guy said the clear llumar works really well. He’s installed it on several classic cars where owners wanted a factory look but wanted to block not only heat but the UV. It stops 99% of the UV. I’m considering going that route with my windshield so the interior stays in good condition for years to come.


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[Tiggie]

Went on a picnic up on the mountain with the family. Noted some oil smoke from the Rustang upon arrival. About a 1500ft elevation change over a few miles. Fairly rigorous for this area but it didn't get hot.

Had dad follow me back down and I really let the engine hold it back. No smoke until we were back in town, upon which it continued to smoke for the rest of the drive.

Going to check out the (new) valve seals to see if something is going on there. Possibly when that pushrod wasn't seated in the rocker and it super lifted the valve. The valve seals were strange on here - one valve was normal, one had some hard plastic shield. The replacements looked the same as those removed. This is basically an 88 lopo, so hoping you all have some valve seal recommendations for me.

I hope it's not rings. Low mileage, but long sitting engine.

I did wind it up pretty tight for the first time. Dad said a lot of mess came out with the smoke. Maybe it just needs some abuse.

[gadget73]

I used valve seals from a 90s Explorer on my E7 heads. The 88 HO original type were an umbrella seal, but newer listings have an umbrella on the exhaust and a real one on the intake. 90s stuff lists real seals on intake and exhaust. I suspect you could run those seals on E6 heads with no fuss since they work fine on E7 heads.

If it wasn't huffing oil when engine braking its probably not rings. High vacuum will suck oil up if they are worn. When I wiped out the seals on the Towncar it was the classic oil cloud on startup and after idling. Basically it looked like an early 4.6 car

if there is any varnish or gunk on those valve stems it could have been enough to rip the seals. Pretty sure thats why mine failed after the cam swap. The valves weren't nasty at all but they did have that slightly brown coating that engine internals get after a while. I wiped the stems down with Brakleen when I put it back together and its been fine since.

[Tiggie]

Valve Seal Experiment:

Had a little time today so I put valve seals on the left bank (the side that was smoking the most).

Used FEL-PRO SS72683, which is the later small block seal.

Cautiously optimistic here. The left bank seems to have fixed the smoking. I will do the right side next week just to get rid of the stupid short umbrellas.

Here's the nasty little umbrella. They are way too short. The old school umbrella ones for even older small blocks are much longer (and more effective). I'd say this was a typo in the catalog, but this engine was untouched and this is what was there from the start on the exhaust valves. No wonder the Lopo has an appetite for oil.




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[massacre]

Wow
Glad you got that done, it will no doubt run better now

[Tiggie]

Spare time has been rare in the last month or so.

Got tired of the high, occasionally rough idle from the current carburetor. Tried an Edelbrock but it's too wide and hits a brace for the A/C. Rebuilt another carb for it, also a big block Autolite 4100 like the other, and was rewarded with a REALLY high idle. Took that off and reinstalled the carb that had been on it. It runs perfect other than the idle. I'm not wanting aftermarket because they just don't look right under the hood for what I am going for with this car.

The most recent install was speakers. Funny how when you are 16, the speakers are the first thing you think about, and at 35, this was literally the last system to complete during the restoration. Using the pretty unusual eBay find factory AM/FM radio with a pair of 6x9 speakers from http://www.turnswitch.com meant to work with the low power head unit, and some grills from California Pony Cars. Pleased to report no drilling or cutting other than the holes in the replaceable package tray. Also pleased to report it sounds very good considering for 1968. Reception sucks on the repop antenna, better on an old Ford one from a pickup.

To Do:
1.) source used antenna or different brand
2.) clutch linkage drags rag joint, Replace "z-bar"
3.) carb hunt
4.) fix a/c oil leak if it continues...

Odometer is over 700 miles now.

Took it out for a spin this evening. I was running 70mph in 60. A Chevy SUV was gaining ground fairly quickly in my mirror. I pushed up to about 78, still coming. Stayed in 5th but put the accelerator down. 85 was all the SUV wanted. 100 was a good cruising speed for the car. 110 got some vibes, not bad. 120 the speedo ran out, vibes gone, but I think it was about done. I was done regardless. It's good to know you can peg the speedometer.


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[DerekTheGreat]

Reminds me of a time when I had recently bought my 2011 Chevy Colorado. I did not know it had a speed limiter, but found out when I noticed some other late model Chevy SUV thought 85 wasn't fast enough. I got to 98mph before he did and that's where my truck stayed. There was more life in it but the electronicals were having none of it- neither was his truck, they essentially hit the same wall.

[gadget73]

GM limited most of their stuff just shy of 100 for a while. Not sure exactly why they picked that speed but my S10 had the same thing. Would get just shy of 100 and it would cut fuel completely until it dropped under 95. I haven't tried the Silverado, it would probably cost 30 bucks in fuel just for the experiment.

[Tiggie]

The carb idle problems continued to the point that I couldn't stand it anymore.

To refresh: Carb was a 1963 Autolite 4100 from a 390. Idled rough, a little high, otherwise flawless. Previously tried another 4100 and was met with an idle that wouldn't drop below 2000 rpm.

I swapped on the 1406 Edelbrock that came on the car when I bought it. I had previously rebuilt it in 2013. Idle problem cured. Throttle response not as crisp but otherwise its about the same (which is a good thing). Due to the wide body, I can't run this carb with the A/C bracket or factory air filter, but it will work for now.