My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

I'm looking to buy the door striker bushings and the window guide bushings at the same time. Foxresto.com has fair prices and most importantly, seems to offer international shipping
My pipe hunt failed miserably and the washers don't come off the striker bolts. As discovered by many others on foxbody and other forums. Though there's that one guy saying just hit it with a hammer...

So I need new strikers, I just want confirmation that the mustangs post and guard/hook style will work with my car.
Gadget said this a while back...

My 86 were post-only. Later ones are the hooky kind. There might be 2 different thread sizes but I won't swear to that. Something is tickling my memories and saying I tried using a striker from something on something else and the threaded bit didn't match up. Couldn't tell you any more than that.

I'm assuming the hook is just a visual thing. The doors or latch mechanisms wouldn't have changed right?

[gadget73]

I've used both the hook and non-hook type on the same car. Doesn't seem to bother anything. The latch did not change so far as I know. I don't honestly know what the purpose of the hook is.

[WagonMan]

The washers DO come off, they unscrew off the threads! WagonMan

[Arquemann]

4 window guides and 4 complete strikers ordered from CJ pony parts. The beforementioned foxresto.com wanted $75 for shipping, no thanks. CJPP did with $43.

And WagonMan, the washers don't come off on these atleast. I tried.

[87gtVIC]

There are different type of strikers...Some come off and some do not. Why?.who the hell knows.

[Arquemann]

I got impatient waiting for the strikers, so I made a couple of temporary ones from garden hose and duct tape, hose was just slightly smaller ID than the striker bolt, so I cut a slit in it and slid it over, held in place with duct tape.
Doors shut better, but not as well as with the proper bushings. We'll see if they last till I get the real ones from across the pond.
The strikers are marked as "ships in 5-7 days" on CJponyparts. Order status shows that one of four ordered has been received, ordered 8 days ago. And ofcourse they won't send the window bushes separately.

Front passenger doors power lock has been uncooperative every now and then. The lock cylinder is pretty stiff with a key, and today the power lock tab on the door panel didn't even flinch when I hit the lock/unlock buttons, but does move with key. The power lock actuator is functioning.
I'll be opening up the door again sometime soon I guess, a thorough greasing is necessary it seems.

[gadget73]

its usually the actuator getting stiff. The rubber boot fails and it gets water inside. If its not seized you can probably pull it and get enough lube in there to save it. Maybe. I'd probably go for light oil to make sure it gets down inside and work it to make sure any rust is out of the thing. If its real bad you can pop the retaining clip off, remove the cup, try to not lose the 3 balls that sit under the cup, and then pull the rod out to get access to spray down inside the actuator.

[VicCrownVic]

+1, actuator.
That's the reason on my last 3 boxes ('89, The Ice Car, The Scab) I just removed the actuators and had manual locks up front. It's really fun when they freeze in the winter due to the reason gadget mentioned.

[Arquemann]

Like I mentioned in the off topic thread, I now had to try out the dog dishes my dad had on the Tbird (originally from a '62 Ranch Wagon we had)

Those on and a coil or two chopped off each corner and I'd be set.

I like it quite a bit, doesn't look as conflicting with the granny trim and vinyl top as I thought.
Those first 2 pic are just the Tbirds steelies rolled next to it, as those are almost black and have the nubs for the dog dishes. Didn't expect to have those on the MGM's steelies anyways.
Last pic I quickly mocked up the cap on the original steelie. I had the backing thingy / lockbolt mount off as I welded the square nut back on it.

Can't attach dog dishes on my steelies, Tbird's steelies need new tires. I guess I have to shell out money either way.

[Arquemann]

I think I want to revert back to the original style amber parking lights in the blinker housings.

How should I go about accessing the headlight wiring and bulb sockets?
The sealed beam housings and adjustments seem kinda crusty...
Could the sockets be accessed from below?
The other header panel I had had one wire snipped that went to the blinker sockets. Current parking lights are separate bulbs in the low beam housings, which is good as I can just unplug those.

Also my front bumper is pushed in a bit on one side. Any real strategy for getting it slid out again? These have those 5mph shock absorber things right?

[87gtVIC]

There is a pinch bolt holding the “bumper shock” To the frame rails. You can loosen that and try to pull out the bumper.

I’d wager the bumper likely took a memory to the new shape and is bent too. May need to hook it up to something solid and gently drive the car away from it to pull out. Sketchy.

[sly]

I didn't need to bend anything out when replacing the bumpers on my 93. I did have to put the mounts in first and then mount the bumper to them.

[WagonMan]

I have knocked a lot of bumper shocks out to there original positions. I have a 6" X 6" X 20" block of wood that I smack against the outer bumper edge forcing the shock out again. SLACK came to my house to buy bumper shocks and I simply knocked his back out again. Just be sure to catch the end of the bumper and not hit the fender! LOL! WagonMan

[sly]

I have knocked a lot of bumper shocks out to there original positions. I have a 6" X 6" X 20" block of wood that I smack against the outer bumper edge forcing the shock out again. SLACK came to my house to buy bumper shocks and I simply knocked his back out again. Just be sure to catch the end of the bumper and not hit the fender! LOL! WagonMan

I've done this too, on the 88 I used to have, but I use a 4 pound hammer directly on the mount plate on the bumper shock. Took about 4 hits to get it back out the inch or so it had been pushed in.

[gadget73]

I think I want to revert back to the original style amber parking lights in the blinker housings.

How should I go about accessing the headlight wiring and bulb sockets?
The sealed beam housings and adjustments seem kinda crusty...
Could the sockets be accessed from below?
The other header panel I had had one wire snipped that went to the blinker sockets. Current parking lights are separate bulbs in the low beam housings, which is good as I can just unplug those.

easiest way is to just remove the headlights. Pull the outer bezel then the 4 screws holding the trim ring to the bucket. The lamp will fall out and the wiring will be in your hands at that point. I don't think there is quite enough room on the Ford/Merc models to get your hand in there to unplug it.

Put some oil on the adjuster screws (which do not need to be moved in order to remove the headlamp or the bezel) before trying to adjust them. They turn into a plastic thing so its not likely stuck but if the screws are dry and dirty it makes it much more difficult to actually turn them.