My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[friskyfrankie]

Oh definitely not! We eat things called "porilainen".

You boys love your jahtimakkara. Wonder what it would taste like on pumpernickel or rye bread?

[Arquemann]

New main bearings are in and the clearances Plastigauge'd.
Not quite 0.0015", but all are closer to 0.0015" than 0.0020".

Pretty happy with that, perfectly fine for a lazy cruiser engine. Dunno if I should go xW-30 or xW-40 oil from the start.
Mineral oil for the break-in, right? Atleast I have a roller cam, I don't want that flat tappet break-in anxiety.

You boys love your jahtimakkara. Wonder what it would taste like on pumpernickel or rye bread?

Threw me for a loop there, this is a pumpernickel here in Finland:

[friskyfrankie]

New main bearings are in and the clearances Plastigauge'd.
Not quite 0.015", but all are closer to 0.015" than 0.020".

Pretty happy with that, perfectly fine for a lazy cruiser engine. Dunno if I should go xW-30 or xW-40 oil from the start.
Mineral oil for the break-in, right? Atleast I have a roller cam, I don't want that flat tappet break-in anxiety.



Threw me for a loop there, this is a pumpernickel here in Finland:

Not sure what those bad boys are but I was talking about a type of bread (German style).

[Arquemann]

Not sure what those bad boys are but I was talking about a type of bread (German style).

Yeah I found out pumpernickel is a type of bread in other parts of the world. In Finland and Sweden it means a cookie.
Pretty sure that type of bread is called "saaristolaisleipä", or archipelago/islander bread here. Looks very similar.

Didn't expect to learn about bread on this forum, yet here we are.

[friskyfrankie]

Anything that expands our knowledge base is usually a good thing.

[Arquemann]

Crank and roller cam are in, thoroughly lathered with assembly lube and spin nicely. It's officially an HO now!
First piston is in, rod bearing clearance was again, between 0.0015" and 0.0020".

I was going to measure my push rods, but it seems I've misplaced them. I presume they won't fit as they're for flat tappet lifters.
Guessing that I should go with the ~6.25" push rods that seems to be the norm for roller engines.

I got one piston in it's hole and I already hate my ring compressor with a burning passion. It's even supposed to "the better one". Still absolutely no way I'm spending 70€ for a stupid 4" billet cone.

[jaywish]

Ya all know the story about Pumpernickel bread? Napoleon fed his horse Nicole this bread while on a campaign, so it means bread for Nicole. At least that is the legend I had always heard.

[gadget73]

Last several engines I put together were using an old basic style ring compressor that looked like a roll of sheet metal with a fancy hose clamp around it. Slather the inside of the compressor and the cylinder with oil, crank it down with a ratchet, use the wood or plastic handle of a fairly heavy hammer to drive the piston down into the hole. Get it set right and 2-3 whacks will send it home. Can't be so tight that the piston won't move, but it has to be tight enough that the rings are smaller than the hole in the block. Shouldn't require an excessively hard whack either, just a solid hit from a couple inches (say the thickness of one good hamburger including the bun). Don't want to break the piston, its just cast aluminum. Also can't hit it hard enough that there is any chance of snapping a ring if its not quite compressed enough.

I think the one I was using was a Blue Point brand, but they have all looked pretty much like this for 80 years or something. They make fancy tapered ones now that are bore-specific but I don't build enough engines to justify that. Last set of pistons I installed was more than 10 years ago now.

[Arquemann]

I knew things were going too well.
Nicked the crank journal on nr. 6 with the conrod stud...
Had a nice flow to my work and of fucking course I forgot to turn the crank journal further away. A couple smacks too...

I am not above admitting my dumb mistake.

Taking the crank to the machine shop tomorrow. They'll say what to do, sand the edges and polish or grind to undersize.

[jaywish]

It may turn out better in the end.

[gadget73]

Use pieces of rubber hose on the con rod studs when you put it together. That way if something hits, its just a piece of hose rather than a metal stud.

[Arquemann]

Machinist said they should be able to remove the sharp edges and do a quick polish to make sure nothing protrudes from the dings I.
Hopefully I got off easy, should be no need for oversize bearings. Since the bearings didn't get scraped, I won't need to buy new ones. Should be back to reassembly in no time.

And yes I will be putting some hose on the conrod studs.

[Arquemann]

The guys at the machine shop are just awesome. They cleaned up my shame and get this: the senior machinist doing the job said "it was quiet last evening so I smoothed out and chamfered all the oil feed holes, they looked sad", and then did a final polish.
Yeah I took the crank to them yesterday just before noon and retrieved it this afternoon as I couldn't be arsed to get up earlier today.

Crank is back in the block, lubed and torqued, and I even remembered to align the thrust bearings this time. Nr. 1 piston is in too, didn't remove that one from the bore when dismantling.
Situation is the same as 48hrs ago, minus 3 pistons and my pride.

[jaywish]

Heck, be proud you have improved oil holes now!

[Arquemann]

Heck, be proud you have improved oil holes now!

Oh I'm quite happy they did it, completely unprompted and pro bono. I did thank them courteously and paid a bit extra.