May want to get a CTEK Battery Tender/Charger. I have seen them work wonders even on "dead" batteries! Always good to have especially for bad weather and for parasitic draws until the reason is found.
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My '85 MGM, "Maisa"
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no better time to deep clean the engine bay than when its out.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I hooked a smart charger to the battery, it got about halfway the arbitrary scale and threw an error / fail, 10,5 Volts. Totally dead.
Decided to just get a new battery, as I was removing the old I checked for a date on the battery. It was, ahem, 8/2011...
No wonder it only took one time to drain it completely to kill it.
Euro-spec car batteries don't fit properly since they're 175mm wide, but I reused the previous owner's "adapter" aka a block of wood under the battery.
Now I've even got terminal covers so I won't be an idiot again and short out the posts by laying tools on the battery!
Today she got a proper wash, tires wire covers and windows cleaned and Qyeon wet coat applied. Whitewalls could do with a better scrub, tire shine has left streaks in them. A few cruise nights left before I'll yank out the engine.
A couple quick pics in the evening sunshine:
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Well, no time like the present. Engine removal process has officially started with putting the insurance on hold and removing the hood ornament since that'd be the first casualty when wrenching. Decided just to get to it instead of waiting for some arbitrary sign of when to start. Better now than when it's sleeting.
I've made a list of things to remove, so far I've got a couple questions:
- How does the radiator shroud come off? I see two bolts up top and the thing seems to be one piece.
- Do I need to remove the wiper linkage box off the firewall? Seems kinda close.
- No way to remove the PS pump without taking off the pulley? I was thinking about just moving it aside to not spill ATF everywhere when moving the car around.
EDIT: and where the hell do I access the frame side motor mount bolts from?
A quick audio clip of the curreny engine noise situation, sounds like a fcking diesel...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mzw...ew?usp=sharing
Can't believe how it sounds like that on idle but it's otherwise completely fine.
Took her for one last drive today and met a big buddy from the east. (MAZ-537G)
Last edited by Arquemann; 09-21-2023, 12:41 PM.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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It does sound diesel like in that sound clip. The shroud lifts up once the two bolts at the top are out and the fan is off the water pump (the fan comes out with the shroud IIRC). The power steering pump bracket can be removed from the engine and you can leave the pump hooked up if you so desire. Only pulled one box engine and that was in the junkyard. Seems like I took the bolts out of the block/motor mount bracket instead of the motor mount itself. The wiper stuff stayed put. I don't recall trashing it.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
GMN Box Panther History
Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
Box Panther Production Numbers
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Originally posted by Tiggie View PostIt does sound diesel like in that sound clip. The shroud lifts up once the two bolts at the top are out and the fan is off the water pump (the fan comes out with the shroud IIRC). The power steering pump bracket can be removed from the engine and you can leave the pump hooked up if you so desire. Only pulled one box engine and that was in the junkyard. Seems like I took the bolts out of the block/motor mount bracket instead of the motor mount itself. The wiper stuff stayed put. I don't recall trashing it.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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I guess I'm removing the lines off the PS pump anyways, not really enough give on the hoses to set it aside and I didn't find a puller to borrow.
Trans bolts, converter bolts, exhaust and motor mounts left, as well as the PS hoses.
Borrowed an engine hoist and a lift plate from a friend. Now to wait for a dry day. Meanwhile I can assemble the engine stand.
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View PostHey, there's a big ugly truck like that in Snow Runner.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Originally posted by Arquemann View PostWell, no time like the present. Engine removal process has officially started with putting the insurance on hold and removing the hood ornament since that'd be the first casualty when wrenching. Decided just to get to it instead of waiting for some arbitrary sign of when to start. Better now than when it's sleeting.
I've made a list of things to remove, so far I've got a couple questions:
- How does the radiator shroud come off? I see two bolts up top and the thing seems to be one piece.
- Do I need to remove the wiper linkage box off the firewall? Seems kinda close.
- No way to remove the PS pump without taking off the pulley? I was thinking about just moving it aside to not spill ATF everywhere when moving the car around.
EDIT: and where the hell do I access the frame side motor mount bolts from?
replacing the mounts is kind of a bitch with the suspension in place, super easy if the lower arm is out. If you're doing it with the suspension in, flex joints and curse words are your friends.
A quick audio clip of the curreny engine noise situation, sounds like a fcking diesel...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mzw...ew?usp=sharing
Can't believe how it sounds like that on idle but it's otherwise completely fine.
Took her for one last drive today and met a big buddy from the east. (MAZ-537G)
Last edited by gadget73; 09-22-2023, 05:10 PM.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postthe answer to the question you asked is through the opening in the frame above the forward lower control arm bushing. The answer you actually want is you leave the motor mounts in place and remove the single bolt that goes through the bracket on the side of the motor where it attaches to the mount. If you have a look down in there where the motor sits near the cross member you'll see a roughly C shaped thing bolted to the side of the block and one long bolt going through it. Pull that and the motor can be lifted off the mount.
replacing the mounts is kind of a bitch with the suspension in place, super easy if the lower arm is out. If you're doing it with the suspension in, flex joints and curse words are your friends.
does it make that same noise with the belts off? Honestly doesn't sound quite regular enough to be internal noise to me.
I do know how the engine mounts are supposed to be separated with the one longitudinal bolt.
I'd like to replace the engine mounts, I feel like they're pretty shot, engine moves around quite a bit IMO.
So, cursing and flex joints for me then.
I did check for the noise with the belts off earlier this year, no difference. It has to be internal.
Currently debating with myself if I want to remove the PS hoses so I can clean the pump and bracket way easier, or just hang the pump and bracket aside and make slightly less mess.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Pull the hoses and clean it. If you're pulling the engine you may as well do a deep clean on the engine bay and accessories.
something I'll warn you about on those aftermarket mounts, the threads aren't always well formed and the bolts don't go in nicely. Run a tap through them and it will fit together a lot better. Also probably will need to bend the bracket on the motor out a bit so it slides over them easy. Do that before you find the engine doesn't want to fit over them on re-assembly.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostPull the hoses and clean it. If you're pulling the engine you may as well do a deep clean on the engine bay and accessories.
Since I don't have a suitable puller to get the pump off the bracket, the cleaning is gonna end up halfassed either way.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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its a common puller, basically every US car used the same one for decades. No clue what Euro stuff ran.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Well, it's out.
Weird thing, everything went pretty smooth, not a single nut or bolt rounded or snapped or gave too much of a fight. Worst were the exhaust manifold studs/nuts to the midpipes, even though I used a meter long breaker bar with my feet braced against the frame rail the nuts came loose even though the studs are a bit skinny from rust. Weird working on non rusty junk...
Didn't even break anything, oil filter got a dent and my pinky got kinda mangled. The cat air pipes didn't want to come out so I cut them with a sawzall, they're not going back in anyways and the cat holes will be welded shut.
Stupid fugging U-nuts on the hood, two of them fell inside the hood. Will retrieve in springtime when removing the hood again.
Engine bay isn't as filthy as I'd have expected, and the motor mounts are shot, as expected.
I'm tired, off to sauna and then to bed. Clean up, engine stand assembly tomorrow. Will take more pics too.
There it sits:
Originally posted by gadget73 View Postits a common puller, basically every US car used the same one for decades. No clue what Euro stuff ran.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel
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Fun times.
I had an issue when I installed new motormounts on my car. I had to notch a piece of the motor mount bracket ears a tad to get the mounts clear properly and fully seat. May be worth test fitting your new mounts onto the engine before installing into car (when that time comes) just to avoid having to pull the engine out to do so afterwards.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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