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My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

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    Looked through all of my manuals and did not find a spec on this. In the NVH diagnosis it says to check it and replace the axle if excessive but it doesn't bother to give any measurements.

    Pop the axle and inspect it. if you see no damage to the machined surface, stick it back in and roll with it. If the area where the bearing rides on shows any kind of damage, replace the axle and the bearing.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      Axle shaft endplay I can find for the 93 is 0.762mm or 0.030 inch (30 thou). Not sure that's the one you're looking for, but that's what I'm finding.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        I found the endplay number, but thats the in-out movement. I couldn't find a vertical play number.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          I can't find any vertical play value in any of my 93/94 or 2000-2003 service manuals either.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            If I'm going as far as popping out an axle to check it, might aswell change the bearings there and then. There's a RA wholesaler closeout on SKF "axle saver" bearings. They're as much as seals and normal bearings together. Yes or no?

            I'm ordering stuff off RA anyways, so I guess it won't hurt too much to order new bearings whether I feel like replacing them or offing myself. Seems like the people who say 1mm of play is too much are the ones who scream the loudest.

            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
            2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

            Comment


              I'm in the camp of if it's not leaking, it's staying put.

              There is a very good chance at least one of the axles is worn and not the bearing itself. That's where the axle saver bearing comes in, as it puts the bearing in a different location on the axle to avoid the worn area. The results are decidedly mixed. I think kishy and gadget have both used them, so maybe they will give you some input. I haven't had to do any of my boxes yet but have done some others with a regular bearing/seal/axle replacement, and haven't had any of those fail.
              1990 Country Squire - under restoration
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

              Comment


                I have had enough overthinking this shit, so I went ahead and ordered stuff off RA.
                - SKF seal/wheel bearing combos for the rear
                - TRW sway bar end links
                - Denso platinum plugs for shits and giggles
                - KYB Excel-G rear shocks

                Dad found old unused front shocks for me in the garage, "USA shock" -brand. Couldn't find shit online, they're made in USA and they seem fine so in they'll go. If it turns out to be a mistake, atleast it'll be a free mistake.
                I'll pick up locally a diff cover gasket and probably an oil filter. Still unsure if I'll change the oil this summer or not.
                1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                Comment


                  Gadget has the best suggestion. I would replace the axle seals at that time in any case.

                  If you need to get the job done and have the car back on the road quickly and only do it once the best bet is to source at least one axle beforehand. Usually the right axle wears first so if a salvage vehicle is to be found pull the left one first. Then you could most likely use regular new bearings. If you need to be almost absolutely sure of getting it done in one shot then get two axles.

                  If axles are hard to get then get the savers and give it a go as tiggie states there is a good chance at least one axle is a bit worn. Based on my personal experience and other general commentary axle saver bearings have maybe a 75% success rate

                  It is a balancing act as to time and parts cost.

                  Option 1, Open it for inspection change seals, then plan your repair if necessary. Perhaps your local parts store can order seals?
                  Option 2. Get repair bearings and seals, then install them.
                  Option 3, Get axle or axles and install new regular new bearings and seals along with any needed replacement axles. Worst case you have an extra axle or two.

                  If you can leave it up on jacks while you potentially wait for parts go with option 1 as that involves the least labor and likely gives the best outcome.

                  BTW I usually use rtv on diff cover, let it setup a bit, install it just lightly torqued, let it dry then torque to specs before filling. Never had a leak this way. But that assumes you have the time to let it dry. otherwise there are gaskets.
                  Last edited by jaywish; 05-15-2023, 08:55 AM.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                  Comment


                    Well I got the axle saver bearings. They were the same price and they will work in any scenario. If the axles are good they will work, if the axles are slightly worn they will work. And if the axles are shot I didn't spend any more money than I would have with regular bearings. I doubt the axle savers are any more or less shit than normal bearings.

                    Oh yeah I test polished the trunk with a car care nerd friend. Paint is thin on top, suuuuper thin. A light pass with Meg's ultimate compound is all it can handle. The body line on the trunk is showing some primer already, even with the utmost care. Can't even go near with a machine polisher.
                    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                    2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                    Comment


                      I had problems with those on my car, but my axles were trash. Tried them twice, both times they leaked within a month and I gave up and replaced the axles. That was probably better than 10 years ago and haven't had a drip since.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        Well you have the repair units so see what happens. I can't remember, do the repair units incorporate seals?
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                          Well you have the repair units so see what happens. I can't remember, do the repair units incorporate seals?
                          Yeah they have the seals built into them. Much more surface area to bash them in aswell, no dinky sheetmetal like the seals usually have.
                          I saw some National version that had seals on both sides of the bearing and the bearing was greased instead of oil bath. Seemed kinda janky compared to the normally lubricated bearing on the SKFs I just ordered. Less likely to leak though, probably.

                          The "axle savers" just move the bearing a bit outwards, seems like not even the width of the roller. Seal is also placed a bit more outwards. If my axles are okay, they should perform fine, from a design standpoint atleast.
                          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                          2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                          Comment


                            New parts and bits coming next week, hopefully.

                            Topside is buffed to the best it can be. Hood, roof, a pillars, trunk and fender tops. Also removed the trunk badges and stickers for easier polishing. The weathered old stickers were more of an eyesore than having any sort of vintage appeal. The only one what would've been fun to keep has turned unreadable over time. It was a sticker from Finnfest USA 1998, Lake Worth FL.
                            Sadly removing the old glue pulled off some of the paint, even though I removed them as carefully as I could. I'll be putting the badges back on and I have a non-colormatched paint pen to lessen the shittyness. I also picked up a Palm Beach Lincoln Mercury dealership badge I found online, which I believe is the dealership the car was sold from. Dealership badges are kinda dumb imo, but I might slap it on if the paint touchup doesn't go well enough.

                            Middle of the hood is showing some gray since the paint is very thin, it was like that before polishing, now it's just a bit more apparent.
                            The paint is incredibly scratched, cracking, worn and every other negative adjective imaginable, but it's no longer cloudy, blotchy or matte. There's some reflection in it now!
                            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                            2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                            Comment


                              How does the C-pillar Grand Marquis emblem stay attached?
                              Pass. side emblem decided it didn't want to hold on and fell off. It's got 3 little studs on it, is there supposed to be some clips or something on the backside?
                              If so, how much of a PITA is to remove the C-pillar interior trim?
                              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                              2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                              Comment


                                yeah... speed clips IIRC. those slip over retention clips that go on bolts to keep them captured. But those are tiny. To get the pillar panel out, you have to remove the trim around it. IIRC, you may have to remove the lower trim first and the back seat needs to be pulled up to get that out. It's been several years since I've done this, so my memory is foggy on it. Last time was when I put 3-point belts in the rear of the 88 MGM I used to have.

                                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                                Originally posted by dmccaig
                                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                                Comment

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