My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

To use the CFI linkages, I need to solidly mount the throttle linkage to the carb arm, and have the TV linkage inbetween those and moving separately. Also I'll have to make sure the angles are similar to what it's on the CFI.
The pivot point of the primary bore axle will be a bit more forward in the engine bay vs with the CFI, did it cause any issues with the TV rod length?

Mostly I need to create a shaft for the TV linkage arm and set the CFI throttle arm angle correctly in relation to the carb arm.
If you have more pics to share, those would be appreciated.

Going with the rod would be a bit more complicated now (figuring out the bracket), but the end result would be overall better. Folks seem to never get tired ragging on the Lokar cable, and just as many praise it as a great solution, which is totally is, too.

IMG dump of the CFI stuff, same but not quite the same as the pieces you used:

[Brown_Muscle]

Actually from those images it does look like the same stuff. as I recall I used a large bolt for it to pivot around, I forget why, but it was necessary. If you take the throttle blades off and slide the shaft out, it should all come out and apart. It's really just re-using all the stock linkages, and mating them to a plate that bolts onto your carb. The more forward, or upward positioning of the new carb isnt a problem. That can be taken care of with the gross adjustment of the TV rod down by the transmission, no bending should be necessary, my carb is significantly higher than the old. I did have to make a different throttle bracket though as seen in my post... So that's one more thing to modify. I hope these pictures help:

[Arquemann]

Seeing the weld spots made it quite a bit easier to figure out how it's put together. Very much helpful. Not as intimidating any more, you literally have a piece of sheetmetal with some strategically placed holes and hot blue glue gun one shut
Dad has a welder and knows how to use it, me not so much. I still a bear a mark from the first time I tried to use it.

Do you happen to know what these tabs do/did?

I see those on mine aswell, but can't figure out what they do... Maybe a throttle stop or so?
If I'll snip those off, I should be able to get the rest of the arms a touch closer to the carb. Yours looks a bit funny when it's on the car.

On the throttle/cruise cable bracket:
I will most likely get an Edel performer and I already have a 1" phenolic spacer, so the carb is definitely going to be higher than stock. I quite like the factory bracket, seems sturdy. Once I get to mocking things up we'll see, but it should be easy-ish to space it up with a piece of pipe or something, or slot the holes. Something else can be fabricobbled if need be.

[gadget73]

honestly I'd rather mod the rod vs the Lokar thing. They're quite frankly shit. The brackets are really flimsy, the mounting didn't want to stay put, and it needed an extra spring to make the trans return correctly. That made the throttle extra heavy. The factory stuff might look a little clunky but its dead reliable.

[Brown_Muscle]

Perhaps they are stops? Your intact CFI unit might be the best bet to see. If they can be removed and the whole thing shortened, ill do that as well. it does stick out a lot. Here's a picture of my throttle bracket as i was making it. it moved things towards the drivers side fender more, and up.

[Arquemann]

From one thing to another:
-How much pressure does the CFI in-tank pump put out? I only have the one pump.
Do I need more than a clamp and barb fitting before a regulator? Probably will need to flare the cut end of the metal line.

[gadget73]

in-tank runs normally around 35 psi through the regulator, dead-head probably approaches 60.

If you are using a dead-head style reg you'll want more than just clamps. At a mininum the line should have a bubble flare or something so the clamp has something to hold. If you're using a return style regulator (which you really should) then nothing is going to exceed about 5 psi, so its all a lot less fussy.

[Arquemann]

Yeah I'll be getting a return regulator, the lines are already there so why not, but to fit it I'll need to cut the hard line at the engine bay. You think the pressure between the pump and regulator will be manageable with a return setup?
Hopefully the factory lines aren't too hard stuff so my flaring tool will function.

[sly]

If the return line flows properly, it shouldn't be an issue. You could always setup a surge tank and low pressure pump from there or replace the fuel pump with a low pressure unit. There's several ways to skin this cat.

[gadget73]

with a return reg nothing should be more than a few psi so not a big deal.

the other big advantage to a return system like this, nothing sticks around long enough to get hot. Fuel flow will be high so even if it boils off while parked it will flush cool fuel back through almost immediately.

[Arquemann]

Fiddled a bit more with the carb, secondaries now have the stock 68 jets and I managed to save the slightly bent fuel bowl gasket.
Primaries have the 65 jets that came with the carb, I think I'll roll with those for now, unless my friend happens to dig up a pair of the correct 64's from somewhere.

The thing that I specifically looked for today was the power valve, it's a 7.5, the factory one is supposed to be a 6.5.
Reading the guides on power valve selection, the 7.5 would probably be fine, since the CFI LoPo has like 20 inHg of vacuum at idle. Guides tell to check in Drive with an auto trans though, I've only checked the idle vacuum in Park. Surely it won't be drastically lower going from like 900 rpm to 600-700?

I'm debating between spending the money on a wideband O2 or just getting someone experienced to tune the carb for me, and I'm leaning towards letting someone else do it for me. Because once it's tuned, it should stay good.

[Arquemann]

I've only checked the idle vacuum in Park. Surely it won't be drastically lower going from like 900 rpm to 600-700?

Well it's about 18,5 to 19 inHg in gear. So I definitely should be fine with the 7.5 power valve.

[Brown_Muscle]

Well it's about 18,5 to 19 inHg in gear. So I definitely should be fine with the 7.5 power valve.

You’ll know If not, when you go to lightly to moderately accelerate you’ll have a power loss if the power valve isn’t kicking in. I’m a huge fan wideband tuning though, takes the guess work out. If jetting is wrong or even accelerator pump that can happen sometimes as well

[Arquemann]

You’ll know If not, when you go to lightly to moderately accelerate you’ll have a power loss if the power valve isn’t kicking in. I’m a huge fan wideband tuning though, takes the guess work out. If jetting is wrong or even accelerator pump that can happen sometimes as well

I'm not quite sure, but doesn't a 7.5 PW open sooner than a 6.5? So it would richen the mixture a slight bit earlier? I guess that's better than a lean bog, neither is good of course.
As much as I'd like to do carb tuning myself, it would take all freaking summer for me. Better for someone experienced to do it once and well.
I'll definitely do the basic setup myself, that isn't as fiddly, like idle adjustment, accelerator pump adjustments and most likely engine timing aswell.
Getting the idle mixture correct will be pretty easy with the factory narrow band O2 sensor. That'll get me through early May's inspection and emissions check (which is done at idle)

[gadget73]

higher the number on the power valve, the sooner it opens. 7.5" instead of 6.5". The ballpark suggested starting number is 1/2 your idle vacuum but thats just a place to start. If it opens too late you'll feel it running out of power and then it will start to go again when it opens. Too soon and it will bog as it goes rich.