My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

just for yucks, try plugging off the vacuum line running from the intake to the evap purge valve. Thats the white round thing with 3 hoses on it. One goes to a solenoid, one goes under the battery, and the third goes to the intake someplace. Closing off either of the two that don't go under the battery will make it stop working. I'm just vaguely curious if its opening that and causing it to run lean on decel because of some problem with the evap system.

I don't think it made a difference. Kinda running out of things to try out here...
But I did try unplugging the SPOUT again, and it did help some. It didn't make the jerkiness disappear at all, but seemingly reduced it a bit.
The timing is supposed to be correctly at 10° BTDC and it has a new-ish double roller timing set, a new TFI unit and reman dizzy.

[87GrandMarq]

Gadget or Sly you guys would probably know, did the cfi cars use a single common ground for all the under hood sensors like the efi cars did?

I was thinking op you could drive around with a vacuum gauge installed to see what’s going on with vacuum. Or you could even hood it up to the egr valve to see if it’s getting vacuum while decelerating.


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[sly]

Everything I know I've read here. I would expect it would be common ground, but I don't know for sure.

[gadget73]

Most of the sensors are the same on CFI as SEFI, they just screw into the engine block as the ground. There should be a wire somewhere in the ECM harness that connects to the engine so the block and all the sensors screwed into it are at the same ground potential.

[87GrandMarq]

Unless it’s been discussed earlier that could be something to look into. 36 year old wires are bound to have a little bit of corrosion on the inside.


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[Arquemann]

I've gone through all the engine bay grounds earlier. The TFI pigtail was replaced due to rubbing issues, but otherwise the wiring seems to be in good nick. It's a FL car anyways.

[Arquemann]

An assortment of random things:


Painted and buffed the spare grille I had and put it on. Barely makes a difference in photos, a bit better in person. Just quick coat of matte black spray paint, "maston makeover". Spent over an hour just masking the grille for paint...


Finally removed the vertical door edge guard "trim", it's so awfully grandpa-spec. Dunno if it was dealer installed or what but it had been there for a long time. Still, I'd rather look at the damage those left than the crappy faded strips of material senior citizen-ism.


Also tried to extend the tabs of the dome light lens with some epoxy. The damn thing keeps falling out of its place. So far it has stayed up a whole afternoon without driving...
I had an idea for a custom shifter knob, but the splines (see random questions thread) kinda put a stop to that. The stock knob is on there tight as fuck.

[Tiggie]

That grille looks nice!!

[Arquemann]

How big of a pain in the ass is to change the fuel filler seal? I'm presuming its the one between the filler tube and the gas tank.
This does have a metal tube between the gas door and gas tank right?

[sly]

4 bolts at the fuel door to get the neck loose. One bolt on a bracket at the tank if it's equipped, otherwise the first 4 bolts are all. Pull the filler neck out... this takes some force and twisting. While that's out, check the entire exposed length for rust/holes/etc. Patch where needed and paint. Remove old seal. Slather plenty of petroluem jelly or favorite slippery stuff that's rubber safe on the inside of the seal where the filler neck will go and install in the tank in the same orientation the old one was. Then slide the filler neck back in and bolt down. All done.

[gadget73]

What he said. Annoying, not especially difficult. The boot up at the fill end will quite possibly rip too but its not critical for stopping fuel leaks. Somewhere on here that part number has been posted so you can change both if you want to.

The only real hitch is if the fill neck is rotted out. If its just wasted, have another one on hand before you touch it.

[Arquemann]

Gave a look under there today, all looks fine, there's no obvious crapstain under the filler tube, but it has only leaked maybe twice or thrice from somewhere there. Gotta refuel today before a cruise night, so I might catch the leaky spot this time.
Ordered the filler neck seal anyways, it'll take atleast a week to come across the big pond, it was out of stock locally.
The filler neck tube looks pretty minty, it even had all the paint on it. FL car keeps me safe from your rust belt horrors.

Also ordered a pair of new rear tires, had enough of the vibrations. 225-70r15 Nankang 3/4 white walls, like the others except 10mm wider. Would've liked to go 235, but those were 27€ more per tire, 225s were only 93€ a pop.

[Arquemann]

Installed the new filler neck seal, turned out to be a pretty easy job. Though for a second it seemed like it's not gonna happen...

Just the absurd size difference in the hole size...
With some vaseline I was able to jam my pipe into the fresh tight hole, but it took some persuasion!


Also took a peek into the fuel tank, and it looks pretty nice.

[gadget73]

lube makes pipes fit into tight holes. Applies to many aspects of life.

[sly]

lube makes pipes fit into tight holes. Applies to many aspects of life.

This. Lube is definitely required for this job.