My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[gadget73]

basically the vacuum thing fights the spring in the hockey puck. Don't remember the specifics but basically the vacuum thing tries to pull the high idle cam out of contact, but the spring in the hockey puck tries to keep it there when cold. If the vac doesn't work it won't ever pull the high idle cam out of contact.

[Arquemann]

basically the vacuum thing fights the spring in the hockey puck. Don't remember the specifics but basically the vacuum thing tries to pull the high idle cam out of contact, but the spring in the hockey puck tries to keep it there when cold. If the vac doesn't work it won't ever pull the high idle cam out of contact.

It probably works just as it should, it just seemed that the vacuum pull-off was already bottomed out but it wouldn't pull it off the cam all the way.
The pull-off shaft won't go in so far as to click it off the lowest step.

It just rests on the little nub that the arrow points at. It had a little bit of pressure on the nub for a while, but when the spring starts warming up the nub eventually moves away from the pull-åff shaft.

[gadget73]

sounds right, just tweak the hockey puck if you need it to stay on high idle longer. Since you don't drive it in the winter its really not a major concern.

[Arquemann]

Well, the AC belt shredded itself coming home last night.
The belts were both old, but dang. Now I have an ugly hole in the hood insulation.

So that kickstarted the smog pump delete I thought about some time ago. I got both new belts. From the 3g belt size thread I got the idea that removing the smog pump pulley would be enough.
In my case, the pump casing was hopelessly in the way of the belt, so I took the whole pump and bracket off.
I routed the belt the "factory" way under the tensioner, since the adjustment slot in the bracket wasn't long enough to have the lower part of the belt go above the tensioner. I did have to remove the positioning bolt to slip the belt on the tensioner pulley.
Currently the belt bounces around about an inch or so between the crank pulley and AC, I want to get it a bit tighter, but I need to get a stubby 1/2" extension to get a breaker bar properly into the tensioner slot. Also another pair of hands would be great.
I went with a 1425mm (56,1") belt, if it was a tad longer, it would've been better to route it above the tensioner.

[87GrandMarq]

I had that bouncing belt issue on my 87 when I first put a compressor on it. I ended up putting a smog pump back onto it just to get the belt to not bounce around or come off. It threw the old belt a few times before I did that. Hopefully you have better luck and can leave the smog pump off.


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[matth825]

https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-smog-pump-eliminator-7993.html?utm_content=Engine%20-%20Pulleys%7CFord%20Performance&T5_Var4=50271&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+No+Vehicle+High&T5_Var3=blue&intl=0&dialogtech=ppc&gclid=CjwKCAjwzruGBhBAEiwAUqMR8DwROQgHqz9aOOM8EyXrHKhsFCtBwaQJ7Dy7iw-ecEDmoqM94yLrHBoC0NYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would one of these work on our cars?


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[87GrandMarq]

No, I tried one on my 85 and it didn’t work.


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[gadget73]

I've got an underdrive pulley on mine with no smog pump, and the belt works fine. There isn't a lot of room between the to and from sides but despite winding it out pretty far more than once it has never chucked or eaten a belt. Can't say why your car might not be working, but if its throwing belts I'd be looking at the pulley alignment and for bent or loose brackets. That long smog pump bolt that goes through the plate where the tensioner is probably ought to get re-installed with a piece of pipe to make up the distance of the missing pump. Stock there is a spacer behind the pump, just measure the length of that plus the pump and cut a piece of pipe to that size. Without the bolt (and mine is missing) the bottom of that bracket is not really supported by anything so it could be out of position.

[Arquemann]

For any interested parties:

The top smog pump bolt is 5" and 15/16, not including the head of the bolt.


The spacer piece is 1" and 7/16.

I don't think the belt bouncing on mine will be an issue, it doesn't jump around too much. I'm 100% sure the AC belt shredded due to it failing from age. The scraps that I ripped out of the engine bay were horribly cracked and hard.
My crank pulley has a very minor case of the weeble wobbles, the smog pump pulley was worse.

[Arquemann]

I'm thinking of ordering new sensors for the intake air temp and coolant temp, maybe those could help with how the car is running? Mostly the rich idle when hot.

Also I'm having a rather stupid issue, on hot days the dome light lens keeps falling off.
Last week and the last few days have been by far the hottest days this summer, and probably last summer too. Last week was around 29°C (84f) and the last two days have been 30-34°C (86-93f) I'm pretty much suffering unless I'm in an air-conditioned space. Might not sound too awful to some of you, but us Finns weren't designed for this!

[sly]

Yeah... if those sensors aren't working, it'll act stupid.
You can test them easy enough.

Engine coolant temperature sensor: http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page28.html
Air charge temperature sensor: http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page29.html

As for the temps... I'm good until about +5 of what you're dealing with. Folks up in the northern areas start having heat advisories at -5 of what you're dealing with. We don't get the heat advisories until the "what it feels like" hits triple digits (F).

[Arquemann]

Thanks for the links, should be able to check them out sooner or later.

In Finland we have 3 stages of heat warnings.
-Yellow warning (hot) at 27°C (80f)
-Orange warning (very hot) at 30°C (86f)
-Red warning (extremely hot) at 35°C (95f)

[sly]

Generally your orange is the up north level and the red is the down south warning. The difference is the prevalence of AC. The south has AC everywhere. The north... not so much.

[Arquemann]

The IAT and ECT sensors seem to check out.

I also plugged the EGR back in now that the car has more of it's shit together again. It seems to accentuate the jerky decel, otherwise it doesn't seem to make the car run worse as it used to before.
The jerky decel is probably the last actual annoyance that this CFI still has.

On the way home from the quick test drive I caught a gnarly summer storm rolling in:

[gadget73]

just for yucks, try plugging off the vacuum line running from the intake to the evap purge valve. Thats the white round thing with 3 hoses on it. One goes to a solenoid, one goes under the battery, and the third goes to the intake someplace. Closing off either of the two that don't go under the battery will make it stop working. I'm just vaguely curious if its opening that and causing it to run lean on decel because of some problem with the evap system.