My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[VicCrownVic]

I think the body/long pole of the bumper jack goes behind the metal tab in the center furthest to the front of the car and one end of that body/long pole also goes into the squared hole to the left. I'm not sure what the proper place to store the tire iron is, but I usually just put it in the body/long pole of the bumper jack. Yes, the tire iron is the handle for the jack. I'm also not sure if it matters where the ratcheting piece of the jack is, but if you move it up and down the pole it might be obvious if it's supposed to catch on something.
The tire itself is mounted by placing it over one of the two hooks in the shelf. The hook in the center is supposed to be for full size spare, while the one on the left is supposed to be for the donut spare. I've actually been able to mount the full size spare in the donut spot, but it takes some persuasion and the J bolt sits at an angle. Once the spare is over the hook, put the threaded J bolt hook through the center of the spare and hook it on the hook on the shelf. The threaded part of the J bolt then goes through the center of the base of the jack which is turned up-side down. Screw the large wing nut onto the J bolt and the up-side down jack base secures into the center of the spare.

[packman]

That is a nice MGM. Must be the only one in your area driving one of them.

[Arquemann]

Hah, I actually installed the spare the correct way then. I just don't have the huge wingnut, so I just used a regular nut. I won't be using that spare anyways, 30 years old and I'm scared to put proper pressure into it.
The jack is just squished under the tire so it doesn't slide around, I can't possibly figure out how it's supposed to attach to the forwardmost middle metal bracket-thing. Whatever works I guess.

I'd prefer having the spare in the middle spot so it'd be symmetrical, but with the donut there, it hangs over the edge awkwardly. I'll fiddle with this stuff more sometime, atleast it's secured down for now.

I have the tire iron ziptied up on one of the horisontal rods above the shelf, that way it's not in the way, doesn't slide around and can be accessed if need be. Now that I no longer have those stupid lockbolts in the hubcaps, (or hubcaps for that matter) changing a tire is actually achievably on the side of the road, if I had another tire.
Only thing I don't like is that the J-bolt is way too long and pokes at the carpet cover, but that might just be due to not having the big wingnut.

I kinda want a fullsize actually usable spare and a jack that's not of the bumperscratcher variety.

@packman
I haven't seen a single '79-'87 MGM or Vic sedan for as long as I know. I've seen one '89 Colony Park and one '88 MGM (tried to buy both). Seen a couple country squires and some box Lincolns.

[WagonMan]

Here is a pic of the proper wingnut and washer. The spare should have a cover in the same grey fabric used through out the inside of the trunk. Inside the cover is a decal showing the proper stowage of the spare and jacking instructions. WagonMan

[Arquemann]

I do have the carpet cover, never realized to flip it to see what underneath. Not that the tiny image really helped in figuring out the jack stowage.

[Arquemann]

I hit a bit of a snag while changing the oil: the oil filter is installed to approximately 788 ft lbs. I cannot get it off.

I've fought with it for 3 hours and I have literally only the base of the filter left on the block. I've used pliers to clamp vice grips tighter than hell, I've hammered it from the side with a chisel and screwdriver, to no avail.

Could I unbolt the oil filter bung? I mean the fitting that goes inbetween the block and filter, on what the filter screws on to.
LMR shows it having a big hex end on it, would it be the same on panthers?

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6890A/1979-95-Mustang-50L-Oil-Filter-Bung

[Arquemann]

Well, dad helped me get it off finally. Two of the least bendiest screwdriver stuck to two holes and a fucking crowbar to twist it loose.


To the US-specialist mechanic who changed the oil last time: Fuck you.

[Mainemantom]

I have had that happen a few times through the years. All because some lube monkey tightened the filter with a wrench after getting it hand tight or did not apply a tiny bit of fresh oil to the seal to the new filter before installing. Maybe even cross threaded the filter. Glad you got it off. I have had to do the screwdriver through the side trick when the filters were made stronger.
About two years ago I caught a "mechanic" over tighten the filter on my 75 Ford with a wrench tight ! I chewed his ass out right there in the shop. I was expecting a fist fight.( I would have maced him) He never touched my car again.

[Arquemann]

Got the oil change done. Rear drain plug wasn't very tight and was wet, along with the whole pan from the crossmember back.
I was also able to tighten the oil level sensor about an 8th of a turn without too much force.
In went some 10W-40 High mileage oil, nothing special but not cheap garbage either.

While I had the car on jackstands, I took off the brake calipers and took a look at the brakes to see why they might be pulsating. Rotors look good by eye, very slight grooves and lip, but no hotspots or discoloration. Pads have worn pretty evenly and have plenty of life left, they're old though. Cleaned and greased the slidepins and slapped them back together.

[gadget73]

not that it helps now, but yes the threaded part in the middle does unscrew from the block. I don't remember if its got an internal hex or not. There is an external hex that would sit between the filter and the block though, but of course with a filter in the way you aren't getting to that.

and yes people that crank oil filters on that tight should be whipped with a filter wrench.

Check the steering for slop. I had shaky brakes on the Conti and it turned out to be bad rack bushings. If you've got some loose thing in the steering its possible one of the wheels is allowed to flop around more than it should. Tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm are likely suspects. Try pulling the tire left/right while its on stands and see if things slop around.

[Arquemann]

Check the steering for slop. I had shaky brakes on the Conti and it turned out to be bad rack bushings. If you've got some loose thing in the steering its possible one of the wheels is allowed to flop around more than it should. Tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm are likely suspects. Try pulling the tire left/right while its on stands and see if things slop around.

Dunno about that... The steering feels surprisingly tight in this thing. There's some on-center vagueness, but I wouldn't expect anything less from a 35yo boat with a steering box. All the tierods are absolutely filthy and covered with greasy crap, but feel pretty tight when pried on.

I'm thinking about replacing the tierod ends and getting an alignment anyways, but I'll wait until the annual inspection next month.

[gadget73]

the other thing that can do it is out of round drums. If your parking brake releases correctly, pull the release handle and step on the parking brake pedal while moving. If you get the same shudder, its the drums.

[Arquemann]

the other thing that can do it is out of round drums. If your parking brake releases correctly, pull the release handle and step on the parking brake pedal while moving. If you get the same shudder, its the drums.

The brake pulsating is most obvious with light braking and lower speeds. Do the rear drums get nearly as much action at low brake pressure?
I have the automatic e-brake release so I don't know to go about testing the drums, as far as I know, the manual release isn't exactly easy to reach especially when moving.

[gadget73]

if the auto release works, then no issue. If it doesn't, maybe use a coat hanger to hold it released. Basically the idea is to not have the brake stay on and burn the shoes.

dunno, just trying to rule out possibilities here, and this is easy and free. I hate spending money and effort only to find out I have not actually fixed a problem.

[Arquemann]

Hmmm...
I had to pick up my sister and I did try the e-brake. But I'm not sure, it seemed to pulsate a bit once or twice, but couldn't really get a definite answer with the short drive. Needs more testing.
Gadget you might be onto something.

Initially I had ruled out the rear brakes due to brake bias, but since these have drums in the rear, things might behave a bit different.