My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[gadget73]

last ones I did were on my Continental. I cut the top piece so it went full length from the front channel to the rear one. The side pieces I simply butted up against that so it had no gap. Seemed to work out OK.

[Arquemann]

Driver's door is done. I tried to cut slits into the back side of the seal, but it just wouldn't sit nicely. Ended up doing pretty much what gadget said. Except I left the rear bit longer and stuffed the ends into the groove of the top seal. The window slides up all the way cleanly. The new seal is a lot smaller and stays completely inside the door. It seems a bit looser than the original, but locks in with the little "tabs" on both sides.
I can get some pics if someone wants to.

I've got to say, this thing has the most convoluted and complicated door panel removal/install of anything I've done. And those are '02 Volvo V40, '97 Volvo 850, '02 Audi A4, '09 Nissan Micra and '01 MB E-class.
How is the mirror knob supposed to be removed from the switch panel? I snaked out the panel out of the armrest with the knob and cables still installed. Took me a while to get it off and four times that to get it back.
Didn't even break any of the tree clips, they are a bit worse for wear but good enough. Versus the 8/10 clips I broke while removing the door panel off my Audi, and those clips were only 16 years old then.

Somebody has been in the door before, the moisture barrier was missing and everything seemed somewhat recently greased. I tried making a new moisture barrier but after struggling with the too thick sheet of plastic, I gave up. I'm not going to winter drive this anyways. What summer gets wet, it dries it too.
The loose and crooked window glass is obviously caused by this piece missing:

I suppose that's the guide bushings everyone's talking about. And no, I didn't have those, the round window bushings I had were for some other Ferd.

[Tiggie]

The manual remote mirror bezel unscrews from the top side. If it’s the power mirror, you can just unplug.

[Arquemann]

The manual remote mirror bezel unscrews from the top side. If it’s the power mirror, you can just unplug.

I thought so, couldn't get it to loosen even with pliers and rag over it. Didn't want to scratch the shit out of it by using only the pliers.

[87gtVIC]

OUt of curiosity, as I have not seen it in years, how did fords run channel look in the corners and edges?

[Arquemann]

OUt of curiosity, as I have not seen it in years, how did fords run channel look in the corners and edges?

I'm pretty sure the angle above the mirror was just bent, everything fell apart when I started yanking it out. The rear corner seemed to have been butted up at a 45° way too tight with some sort of glue. Maybe it was molded to 90°, not sure.
Maybe I can salvage the other side better and snap a few pics of the old and new for you guys. The drivers side remains I threw away since they were dirty, greasy/siliconey and falling apart.

Not sure if I remember wrong reading some discussion about the original seal having the felt only on the inside, but the seals I pulled off did have felt on both sides. The outside felt had just worn away from years of being exposed to the elements. The small strips inside the door itself still had most of the felt left on the ends.

[gadget73]

sounds about right. angle cuts and adhesive.

[Mainemantom]

Arquemann,"tried making a new moisture barrier but after struggling with the too thick sheet of plastic, I gave up. I'm not going to winter drive this anyways."
I have used Mylar that people use for boat covers when they store boats for the winter. It works real good. Easy to cut and easy to glue to the door.

[gadget73]

Same. Marina down the street makes for an easy source of scrap.

Too thick and it won't cut, too thin and its like trying to cut bubble gum. Its soft and stretches or tears instead of cutting.

[Arquemann]

Opened up the passenger front door today, all the moisture barriers were in place, some kind tar paper and clear plastic.
In my infinite wisdom, I inspected the run channel after removing the door panel. The seal is in way better shape and is kinda soft still.
It's the same stuff as on the other side, but done way nicer. The 90° angle seems molded or bent extremely cleanly.

I ended up not changing it, the one I did on the driver door is kinda iffy. I haven't driven faster than about 50mph, but the wind noise didn't really improve. And that's exactly why I bought these new seals...
The stuff I got was the WC3396 recommended in the dew wipe & run channel thread.

Also both of the striker bushings my dad found from the garage have fallen apart. Driver doors wasn't there anymore at some point. I wanted to take measurements of the bushings for making DIY from pipe. The passenger front door still had it left. I got the ID and OD measurement and the damn bushing crumbled away the following door openings.

Question: are the window guide bushings the same for top & bottom and front & rear doors? I'm thinking about sculpting some from a block of plastic or I might be able to get some 3d printed. The hole in the middle ought to be the same atleast?
Or alternatively link somewhere I can get them new, but that's not likely eh?

[87gtVIC]

Bummer on the weatherstripping. I am happy with my results, especially after wasting hundreds on NOS pieces that turned out to be dried out turds within a years time before trying the WC3396.

The window guide rod bushings can be found....these should work:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-22292A/88-93-Mustang-Window-Guide-Bushing-For-Convertible

May have to fully remove it for install. Been quite some time since I did this.

I think on my vic the guide rod bushings were different top to bottom. My car is a two door done know if that changed anything for comparisons sake. I am fairly sure I just replaced it with two of the same that I could find like a above.

Visually it appears as if you would have used two of the same....based on hole size. Cannot comment about rear doors..dont have any.


EDIT: more info here from yesteryear...http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...g-Installation

Mustangs unlimited is now out of business....hence no links work in the linked thread above.

[Arquemann]

I don't need any for my rear windows, but as I need to open the right rear anyways because the window stopped working, I wanted to make sure that the rear bushings are the same were I to make my own or get ones 3d printed.

Looking at the picture I took, the top one looks slightly rectangular, but not as much as the "rectangular ones" in the linked thread. The bottom one looks to be about the same.
Brown_Muscle said the square ones fit his 4d and the rectangulars didn't. You linked the rectangular ones here.
LMR has a 4-pack of the square ones 17.99 vs the 9.99 for one of the rectangulars you've linked.

I dunno maaan...
If I can figure which I actually need I might try to wrangle with LMR to get them shipped internationally, versus carving my own out of a block of plastic or getting some 3d printed. It's a simple shape that can be made in 3d easily without expensive 3d scanning. Making them myself would give some "creative freedom" to make it easier to carve out and install: it's a piece of plastic with a hole in it and it needs to go around a hole in a metal bracket and stay there.

On monday I'll pop into a couple local industrial stores if could get some plastic pipe with a fitting outer diameter for the door strikers. ID isn't as important as I can drill out the pipe or wrap tape around the striker pin if need be. I'd like to diy and probably save money on those since LMR doesn't have international shipping. Also I definitely wouldn't worry about slamming doors if my hinge bushings can be fixed with 50 cents worth of pipe

I'll still have to do a highway test with the new window channels, and preferrably with intact striker bushings so that won't affect things.

[87gtVIC]

I don't need any for my rear windows, but as I need to open the right rear anyways because the window stopped working, I wanted to make sure that the rear bushings are the same were I to make my own or get ones 3d printed.

Looking at the picture I took, the top one looks slightly rectangular, but not as much as the "rectangular ones" in the linked thread. The bottom one looks to be about the same.
Brown_Muscle said the square ones fit his 4d and the rectangulars didn't. You linked the rectangular ones here.
LMR has a 4-pack of the square ones 17.99 vs the 9.99 for one of the rectangulars you've linked.

I didnt even notice that the singular one I linked was rectangular. In my head I thought it was a single square one (quick glance and it looked square to me) and was bummed that they only sold the square ones. lol Reading.....


Maybe other outlets produce these things as well as the strikers and ship overseas? I just reference LMR as it is quick and easy for me to find.

[gadget73]

If you use the Ford OE number it will probably turn up some source that will ship to you there. I'd be very surprised if there are no sources of Mustang parts for EU owners.

[Arquemann]

The part no. brings up a nice selection of sellers, even one in France! I can't order in french though
Atleast a couple have international shipping.
LMR's 4-pack is priced competitively and two of those would be enough to fix all of them.

E3AZ-5422362-A being the square one, that's the one I need right?