My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

Things circle back around to the rear sway bar, as I expected.
I don't have one and acquiring one might be a bit harder. Or the shipping will cost a fortune.
A stock rear would pair up nicely with the stock front bar? Or a police rear bar/whatever preferrable?

Also there's like 3 sets of american racing outlaws with correct bolt pattern for sale in Finland, cheap too. I guess those things are out of style nowadays. Perfect for me since I'm always out of style!

[gadget73]

anything in the back is better than nothing. These cars tend to understeer somewhat anyway so you can get away with the larger rear bar and a stock front one. Huge bar up front and nothing in the back makes them plow really bad in a turn. The problem is just finding any of them now. There isn't anything remarkable about these things. I'm surprised there isn't an aftermarket source of something, even if it was semi-generic with some janky brackets to make it work. Not exactly sure how the GM B body stuff mounts in the back, but maybe even one of those could be adapted.

[Arquemann]

Are all box rear sway bars similar dimensions?
Sedan, coupe, wagon and LTC?
I'm guessing aeros and whales are different.

Also are the rear sway bars mounted to the axle with the end links on the frame or vice versa?

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Aeros and Whales have end links that mount to the frame and then attach to the sway bar. Boxes used a sway bar that attached to each control arm.

[gadget73]

box rear suspension is the same no matter what the body was. There are 2 bars that I know of, the skinny and the fat. Both bolt up the same. Only real trick is that some cars have the holes in the rear control arms, some do not. Nothing you can't fix with a hole-maker but just be aware of it. There are spacers that sit inside the arm so the bolts don't flatten it, but they can be subbed with bits of pipe or solid bar with a hole drilled through and cut to the right length.

fat bar, taxi/police/HD 1 1/16" D9AZ-5A772-C or E7AZ-5A772-B
skinny bar, 11/16" D9AZ-5A772-A or E7AZ-5A772-A

[Arquemann]

New AC clutch is installed, AC works again.

Jeeeeesus that was one worst jobs I've done on any car.
What is supposed to be the correct procedure to take off the AC/air pump belt and put it back on?
I fought quite a while to get the belt off and thrice that to get the belt back on. New clutch is different than the old but goes together the same and looks better, it did come with a handful of different sized shims, I used the one old and 2 new.

The AC compressor isn't long for this world, it makes a lot of "krrrrr" noise when it kicks on.
The noise seems sharper than last fall when I heard it last. Also the compressors underside was really really filthy, so it probably leaks aswell.
If the thing goes out, I'll be ordering the kit with the drier, orifice tube and compressor and the retrofit valves.

[sly]

Removing/installing belt: loosen the pivot bolt that the belt tensioner rotates on to allow it to move and then loosen the set bolt on the back side of the bracket that holds the tensioner in place. Sometimes have to remove that bolt to get the belt to clear the original pulley due to the high guides on it. Reverse the process for installing a belt.

[Arquemann]

Removing/installing belt: loosen the pivot bolt that the belt tensioner rotates on to allow it to move and then loosen the set bolt on the back side of the bracket that holds the tensioner in place. Sometimes have to remove that bolt to get the belt to clear the original pulley due to the high guides on it. Reverse the process for installing a belt.

Well that makes sense, I tried to see behind the bracket but I guess the bolt head was so caked with crap I couldn't see it.

[gadget73]

yeah, 2 bolts, one where you can see it, one where you basically have to feel for it. 15mm head I think? Its pretty hard to see back there but maybe with a light and a mirror. usually pretty filthy on the back side of that bracket too.

The FS-6 compressor clutch exists in 2 styles. The early one has the flat front, the later one has 3 round things on it. Those compressors also have an oil weep wick on the front. If you can see up from the bottom side of it you'll see what looks like a bit of string sticking out. The compressor oil is meant to weep out of there just a tiny bit to lube the seal. They're all pretty nasty on the bottom, and it just gets worse with age and seal wear. They're also kinda noisy even when things are right. I think its something with the internal valves that makes that buzzing noise. If the pressures are good and it has the right amount of oil in it, run it till it quits.

[Arquemann]

Last few days have been too hot to work on things, I still need to polish the hood and that definitely requires atleast a cloudy day.
But the AC works great, so far For some reason I don't have high hopes for it lasting long. The compressor has quieted down a considerable bit, maybe the oil wasn't flowing well at first with the AC being non-functioning for a long while.

As mentioned by someone in another thread, the trunk release button is the culprit, as expected. It opens the trunk pretty violently, since the seal is new.
How is the button supposed to be removed? Doesn't seem to twist or turn. Didn't use force since the whole dash creaks along with the glovebox.

[sly]

it's "wing clips" you have to pinch the thin plastic clips in from the back side. A small mechanic's mirror will help you see that. There's a picture of one on the listing from LMR:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-19542A/80-04-Mustang-Power-Trunk-And-Hatchback-Release-Button

That should help you figure out what I'm saying.

[gadget73]

yes, all you need are the eyeballs on the ends of your fingers along with the extra long double jointed hands to remove it.

or drop the glovebox door all the way open and its not so bad.

[Arquemann]

The glovebox opening-stopper-screws were unbelievably tight, so my hands looked like after a cat attack just getting the glovebox out of the way.
I got the button out and cleaned it out since it was full of red grease. It works now.

Also finished buffing the car with the Auto Glym SRP, the hood I had left was the worst part. Last time this car has seen any sort of wax was probably in Florida last millenium. The SRP just like bakes on and solidifies as soon as the layer gets thin. It gets really difficult to buff off and leaves shitty residue streaks anyways. Took 3 passes to get the rag going smooth over the paint.
As the car is kinda glossy now, every single imperfection/dent/rock chip shows well, and boy is there alot of them. Which is kinda okay since I don't like my cars that shiny and mint. If you're scared of dirty roads and rain, you're doing it wrong lol

Dad was organising the garage a bit and found 2 door strikers with the bushings intact, I installed those in the front doors and now they shut nicely, no more slamming necessary.

It rained heavily last night and today morning, and the passenger front door sloshed. Probably over a litre of rusty black water poured out. Just to be sure I cleaned the drain holes in every door...

[Arquemann]

I finally received the window run channels, after they sat 4 days at the customs for no apparent reason. I can already feel the 90° corners are going to be a pain in the arse, scared to do relief cuts or the sort. Maybe just jam it in, window up and apply heat?

I'm trying to jam everything together at the same time: the window run channels, the driver door needs the glass guide bushings (I may have the correct ones, never seen 'em), passenger front needs the lock mechanisms greased, keybarrel is stiff and power locks get uncooperative without regular use.
Also I have to open up the right rear door as the window stopped working and the lock is kinda stiff.

Otherwise, the car has worked pretty well for quite a while. AC works, cruise works, doesn't die anymore, runs almost smooth. Both front tires lose air slowly, doesn't help that it sits most days.
I want to do things to this car! Wheels, tires, stance, but I don't exactly what to do... And TBH I haven't gotten anything done as I can't be arsed to do anything even though all I do is lounge around all day everyday. Haven't heard back from the Mustang wheels -guy either.

Dad did take the 18" wheels off the Tbird, sick of how it drove with the worn tires. He got some "new" tires for the stock steelies.
So I confirmed my opinion of "ew, no".

[87gtVIC]

For the corners or any transitions point with the run channels you can just cut slits nice and close to each other from the back of the material towards the leading edges BUT NOT GOING THOUGH the faces of the window run. This will make it flexible in corners.