My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[gadget73]

the only reason to do all that would be specifically to avoid the electric blend door servo. If not using the vacuum thing, may as well just use one. That gives both precise control of the door and feedback on position. Using vacuum with pulse width modulation for the regulator is very much an annoying way to get the job done.

and i wouldn't use the fan speed thing for position, I'd want a pot that could really track it. It could possibly double to drive the later blower motor speed control setup too. May as well eliminate the 3 speed limitation if making it all way too complicated.

[sly]

true enough.

[Arquemann]

I've had some daydreams about a diy hvac system, though in a manual config. Using servo-controlled butterfly valves for air control. Two large ones as blend doors and a large plenum with a valve for each air direction. Blend doors could be attached to a simple hot-cold knob and the air direction could be controlled with buttons that have 3 programmed positions for the valves. Open-halfway-closed to have more control over the amount of air.

Here's a pic of the door locks I got, has anyone else seen ones like these? Because I haven't. Supposedly off an '80 Colony Park.

[gadget73]

not familiar with off-center locks. No visible part number ?

[Arquemann]

not familiar with off-center locks. No visible part number ?

Both say D3BB 5421970-AA, they're mirrored off eachother, one had the PN facing inwards, so I didn't see it originally.
My google skills come up short.

[DerekTheGreat]

For what it's worth, I've seen them on early cars.

[Arquemann]

Gonna go take a look at the part-out Colony Park next Friday. Dunno what to pick, what's left and if whatever is worth taking. Maybe an indicator stalk, window switch panel, wheel arch trim, opera light lens, a headlight bucket and retainer ring for the header panel on the wall... I think he said the park/indicator lenses are gone, maybe the headlight bezels too.

What’s the interior color of the Colony Park? I might need some interior bits if it’s the grey interior, happy to pay for shipping in that case.

Unfortunately the interior is brown/beige.

[Tynnerstroem]

Both say D3BB 5421970-AA, they're mirrored off eachother, one had the PN facing inwards, so I didn't see it originally.
My google skills come up short.

D3-part number should mean it's from a 1973. D for 1970s, 3 for 1973. Shame about the interior color on that Colony Park!

[gadget73]

D3B should be '73 Bronco if I'm reading the chart in the master parts manual correctly. The last "B" is for "body", which makes sense.

[Arquemann]

D3B should be '73 Bronco if I'm reading the chart in the master parts manual correctly. The last "B" is for "body", which makes sense.

Yeah, I got that far too. But I highly doubt a first-gen Bronco would have illuminated locks. You'd be hard pressed to find any vehicle in the 1973 FoMoCo lineup to have illuminated locks. Also according to some online resources the 54 in 5421970-AA could mean a 4-door subcategory. And as far as I know, 4-door Broncos are a pretty recent thing.

For any of you guys with parts manuals, what would the correct PN be for an '80 Colony Park door lock?

[Tiggie]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364168002642?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=A0-7QI5_SQy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=soV3li9vT6C&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My 82 had center hole lighted locks. Guess the very early cars did offer offset ones by this part number. Didn't dig out the catalog yet.

[Arquemann]

Went to check out the part-out CP today, a rather rainy, muddy and miserable experience. Timing could've been better to say the least.
The Colony Park was a woody so the wheel arch trim is wrong, indicator lenses and headlight bezels were toast. A tree had fallen on it so the trim around the left A-pillar was mangled.
Was a pretty nicely optioned car, cream/beige over dark wood trim, dark brown plush interior, ditch lights, manual AC, cruise. Leather door panels that had Mercury crests and huge pieces of "wood" trim. Had the remnants of a hitch, no sway bar, I checked

Anyways, I took home a headlight w/ the bucket and adjusters, 2 opera light assemblies (one broken), a little U-shaped glass guide for the front door, a spare voltage regulator, and the core support cross bars that wagons got.

Might go back for the window switches and panels, maybe the driver side dash "wood" piece if I can figure out how to remove the headlight knob. On the CP the stalks are rusty, but on mine the chrome is flaking off. Again, might pick the indicator stalk if I can figure out the removal. On mine the pass. front window frame trim is a bit mangled, might be able to get it off the CP.

The guy who bought the car picked apart the wiper mechanism, all worn out and sloppy. Though for some reason mine hasn't slapped the a-pillar even once this summer.

Eh, I don't really need anything and a most little bits in my car are in pretty nice condition. Don't really want to hoard either. Window switches might be a smart thing to have a spare of. Gotta think about the manual blend door, I will definitely not just come across one accidentally. Hell I'd stash away a whole heater plenum if I had space to hoard stuff to.

[GM_Guy]

The headlight knob comes out by pushing a spring loaded button in behind the dash. Push & hold it in and pull the know out. See arrow...

[Arquemann]

Windshield washer stopped spraying yesterday, could hear the pump but nothing on the windshield. Investigations were short: out of washer fluid. Low fluid level warning never came on.

How does the turn signal stalk come off? Doesnt seem to twist off or thread out, unless its really on there on the part-out Colony Park.

Also taking the MGM to winter storage next month, probably 2 or 3 weeks left for cruising.

[Arquemann]

She doesn't like cold weather, it's been around 5-10°C and with a cold engine its a bit of a struggle. Lean and bogs on throttle tip-in, I definitely didn't tune this for cold weather use. Oddly enough even though if I drive the thing to full operating temp, it's still kinda unhappy in cold weather. But if I stop and shut it off for a few minutes and let the engine soak in it's heat, it runs nicely afterwards. Seems like the carb isn't heating up when driving.

We've had some sand-dust come down with rain recently, making an absolute mess of my cars. Washed both cars today, decided to try out a new car soap. Bought a bottle of Auto Glym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner. I explicitly wanted a soap with wax and something that's easy to measure out into a bucket. Very little suds, which I don't mind. Not quite as potent as the stuff I've used before, but it's obviously more suited for maintenance washing, instead of the disaster removals that I do. 2 capfuls into a 10l bucket, easy to dose and the bottle will last pretty long.

Really put some more shine into the old Oxford white, even though I waxed the car somewhat recently. And for some reason it made my windows insanely clear, except in straight bright light, then it's evenly a bit cloudy.

A new squeak appeared today, drives me mad, volume was inconsistent, which initially made me think the squeak was intermittent. Sounds exactly like the squeak that the front seat armrests do. But after realizing the squeak has a consistent interval, it was pretty easy to diagnose; it's the freaking tape deck! It might be the cold weather, but whatever. What could be causing a squeak inside the tape deck? Are there spots I could spritz a bit of light oil into?

And I'll ask again, how does the indicator stalk come off?