The Crown Shit. The never ending story.

[sly]

Hmm... sounds like it may be connector gremlins. The female ends may need a little squeeze on the relays.

[frankenstang]

no fuel pump codes today.

though is here a way to bypass bank 1 sensor 1 for the O2 sensor? or just bypassing the O2 sensors in general? that's what i think is causing the system to lean out

[sly]

The exhaust leak due to the open header would be the main "lean" in the system.

[frankenstang]

The exhaust leak due to the open header would be the main "lean" in the system.

The lean code is on bank 1. Bank 1 is passenger side?

Still doesn't explain cyl 5 and 7 misfire
P1151- Heated Oxygen sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 switch point indicates lean
P0305- Cyl 5 Misfire
P0307- Cyl 5 misfire
P0171- System Too Lean Bank 1

Disconnect pass side O2 sensor for the time being? Attempt to close the gap on the header?

Might consider doing all injectors soon too, then I'll give in and do wires.

[frankenstang]

i'm noticing a lot of blue tinted smoke lately too. been checking oil, not noticing any level decreases. I put in a full can of SeaFoam on its first full tank, that tank is almost empty now, 225 miles later.

[frankenstang]

in regard to the last post...

definitely burning oil. that was full when i checked it yesterday.

[sly]

Bad PCV valve could be the oil burning issue.
You actually have lean codes on both banks. This indicates you have a vacuum leak or exhaust leaks near the oxygen sensors. Open headers, cracked exhaust manifolds, will cause that. And if the code is caused by bad exhaust, the car may be running pig rich and might be pooling gas in the cylinders causing high carbon buildup and possible misfires. If the injectors aren't working right on 5 and 7, that could cause the misfires too. If the connectors are not locked into the coils or the injectors, that could cause misfires too. If they just pull off, put a zip-tie on to hold them down. This may require 2 zip-ties (one around the body of the coil and one from that zip-tie between the wires on the connector and back around to hold the connector on - at least that's how I did it). I kinda wish we could put hands on this car and diagnose it directly. Kinda hard to really pinpoint the issues when there's so many.

[frankenstang]

The Crown Shit. The never ending story.

i can probably pull all plugs again tomorrow and maybe get injectors into 5 and 7 before i have to head back to school, then get it up in the air and see if i can get a better seal on the header.

There is an apparent backfire when it's cold, i've only heard it twice ever, both of them were on my drive home, engine still cold. I'll check the pcv before i take off tomorrow morning, didn't notice the smoke until yesterday after putting the intake back on. probably just a case of rushing and not doing something right.

last thing. How hot do these transmissions run? after getting it in the air yesterday someone pointed out that the trans was really warm... and a very small atf leak from the bellhousing, not from the TC drain plug... don't think this started until my first drive yesterday. keeping my eye on atf level now.

... got impatient and just took a look at a couple things, the pcv wasn't completely pushed on, don't know how much that really affects that but i took it off and pushed it all the way on again just to be safe.


anyone know what this sensor is for? I've looked around for it trying to figure out what exactly it is but haven't had any luck... it was disconnected before i first brought it home, but i plugged it back in.

[sly]

Trans can run at the same temp as the engine... about 200-220F. They should be running around 180-200F though. Check fluid in park with engine running. They shift slow from reverse to drive when they get about a quart low.

If the car is backfiring... it's probably running pig rich and loading up the cats with raw fuel. More and more this is sounding like a vacuum leak somewhere. Also, leaks around the bell housing are typically from the valve covers leaking. Trans leaks would be around the pan areas or around the torque converter drain area.

The loose PCV valve could be a source of a lot of issues as it will add unmetered air (vacuum leak) along with allowing the car to suck oil up the breather tube (blue smoke) and may cause rough idle, misfires, and lean conditions. With the PCV valve seated properly, things should improve. We'll see how it does.

[sly]

Just thought of something else... If the PCV valve works it way back out again, either the grommet is bad (if it's a good snug fit, this isn't an issue), the valve is plugged, or you're getting excessive blow-by and crankcase pressure.

[frankenstang]

the leak is around the TC drain area, but not at the drain plug.

[frankenstang]

cylinder 5 is where the problem lays.

got into it with a colonoscopy type camera stick and... a pool of oil, metallic oil nonetheless. tons of blowby. cylinder 7 was completely dry. no fuel, no spark. gonna scrap it most likely instead of selling it, might just keep it as a little project car with some friends.

[gadget73]

must have had a meltdown on #5 somewhere along the way. A quart of oil in one drive is a huge amount.

[sly]

+1 Cyl 5 with that much blow-by sucks. Someone nuked that thing and sold you a bill of sale.

[frankenstang]

Or it's just a result of having it sit for so long in a back yard. it's all good. cutting our losses and it'll be gone this weekend unfortunately. it didn't burn before we parked it. Sucks it actually has to come to this though, i'll take another look inside the cylinder and snag a couple pictures for you guys to gaze at in amazement.