The Crown Shit. The never ending story.

[DerekTheGreat]

Told ya

Why I hate and refuse to buy rusty vehicles any more. Uphill battle as everything fights you & most of it breaks in the process. Another thing is, since I don't have a lift and am getting old, laying on my back all contorted is starting to suck more and more.

[frankenstang]

made new brake line today, at least flared one line completely, FR lines. just need to bend that to shape and start wrenching again, then see if i can do anything with the tool i have at home.

[frankenstang]

okay, the line i made today was way too short, then i realized that bending it by hand doesn't really cut it up front. rears were passable, fronts are a no no. at least got the FL line just about set, need to re flare in the morning.


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[Tiggie]

Cheap tubing bender are decent. Not awesome but usable. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tu...yABEgKdcfD_BwE

[jaywish]

Are you using steel line or the newer NiCu ?

[frankenstang]

Are you using steel line or the newer NiCu ?

NiCu I think. I know it's not the same as what's on the car already, it's coated, that's all I specified.

I've got a line bender tool at home too, got the FL line bent to shape. just have to re-flare it to a bubble flare... Ford.

[jaywish]

Coated steel is common now. The Nickle stuff is easier to bend which is a big help for convoluted areas. Plus it is supposed to last longer than even the coated steel.

[DerekTheGreat]

What do they sell over the counter at parts stores? Some of the brake lines are pretty crusty on Ashley's new truck, going to replace them with that ultra easy pre flared stuff because it's not a show car and I'm lazy & lack the right tools.

[gadget73]

You can get green coated steel or the NiCOPP which is sort of brassy color. The NiCOPP hold up a lot better and bend easier. Steel is, well, steel. Anywhere the coating gets nicked, which tends to happen whenever it gets bent or shoved up over a frame spot, it rusts.

[BigMerc96]

Parts stores usually carry both the coated steel and the NiCopp. I have a bit of both on my Town Car. Like the OP in this thread, once I fixed one line, another popped, and I later discovered the shitty work that'd been done on the rear lines before I bought it. The LF had a pinhole, or at least I think it did, it was very crusty and had a spot that was always damp but I never saw it leak until after I started removing it and it crumbled. Got that done, its the easiest line on the car. I made and flared the line with the NiCop because...well I'm not really sure why I bought that in the first place.. But I got it done and bled and then went under the car to change the oil, barely bumped the line to the RF where it runs under the engine and it crumbled. That was where I was glad I had that roll of NiCop because I dunno if I could have made that line in one piece with steel. My rear lines as i mentioned had been done prior to my ownership, whoever did it used pre-flared bulk lines from the parts store with unions every several feet. Not ideal IMO, but passable and at least there weren't any compression fittings. However, where they run up over the frame above the wheels was REALLY sloppy, likely cuz they were using pre-flared lines and they were slightly too long. So I bought a couple pre-flared coated steel lines and disconnected the crap that was there at the union(s) ahead of the rear wheels and ran everything from there to the wheels myself, cutting and flaring to the correct length and fitting type rather than using the SAE to Metric adapters at the rear hoses like what was there before.

[frankenstang]

ok yeah they were just coated steel


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[frankenstang]

LF line is bent and flared, waiting until it's dry again to put it on. i really hope the RF line is going to go ok in one piece, and i hope i made it long enough this time.


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[frankenstang]

Lines are completely done. Still just a tad soft, though i think that's how it was right before the line blew, only bled 3 calipers then, just bled the fronts this time because i didn't want to get all 4 wheels off. gonna drive about 10 miles to my vocational class, re-bleed all 4 brakes, then drive another 10 back to my home school. Fingers crossed.

plugged in those O2 sensors again too, check engine light is still there, are these OBD2? or are they still OBD1? i'm almost positive it might still be some O2 sensor related problem but i would like to be sure.

and the speedo works! did a half ass job with the repair but it works for now and therefore, i don't complain.

and i forgot to put the TC inspection cover back on, the one that goes here

should i put that on real quick before taking it out? can it wait about 10 miles?


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[Tiggie]

“Let ‘Er rip tater chip”

You are fine to go 10 miles without the inspection cover.

[frankenstang]

how quickly can plans change...

decided it's probably a better idea to give it a couple days of 5+ mile trips instead of jumping back to my normal commutes.


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