1990 F-150 XLT Lariat

[sxcpotatoes]

Hey, here's the truck I mentioned before, may be getting this if it all checks out decent with my mechanic. 117k, 5.0, 2wd, dual gas tank, pw, pl, cruise works, horn works, may need u-joints as it has a kick anytime you are at speed and give it any gas.

[sxcpotatoes]

More pics, good dash, ford tape deck like the Crown Vics got, some sort of glue on the driver side seat I was told. 3.55 open rear (I didn't post the vin sticker pic)

[sxcpotatoes]

Riding mower, push mower, and Ariens snow blower came free, with wood board ramps, and there's a bedliner in it. I have to go back to get the tonneau cover soon. Probably need to research how to install it, there's a bunch of clamps for it in the bed.

[sly]

Single drive shaft or 2-piece? 2-piece may need a carrier bearing as well.

[sxcpotatoes]

Sly, I think they only have 1 piece driveshafts, there are only 3 lengths listed on Rock Auto for the '90 F-150.

Anyway, the list from my mechanic, needs:

1. Oil Pan Gasket $500 (doesn't need it right away, it's not a gusher, seems someone replaced the valve cover gaskets thinking that was the issue, just gotta keep an eye on it)

2. Brake lines $300 (they all need replaced, but the brakes all look great/new, pads and rotors, etc, just some rust from sitting)

3. Belt $50 (serpentine or whatever, I'm sure I can do this myself, it's a belt)

4. Exhaust pipe (no estimate, cheap exhaust pipe shop here $50 to replace the bad section or sections, not whole thing)

5. Spare tire mount is diiiiiiiicked. All the bolts/hinges are seized and only option is to torch it out/off (he said he'd be worried the spare was going to drop and destroy a car behind me on the road)

6. Rear U-joint is crusty, starting to go.

7. The GOOD. Frame is nice, radius arm bushings are great, header panel is perfect, overall solid truck, one of the best he's seen recently. AND someone had tuned it up, new plugs wires cap rotor, etc. Did mention the front wheel bearings were a little worn/loose or something but the front end was tight enough. I found records indicating it had a transmission power flush at 112k in 2010. Yes, that's right, it was driven 5000 miles in the last 7 years . On the paperwork is says "customer complains about intermittent clunk when slowing up/letting off gas like at the top of a hill" whereas now, it's clunk/jolting every time you get on the gas while you are going 25-55mph (which lead me to guess U-joint).

Anyway, Dave (my mechanic) mentioned something about the old early EFI 5.0 PCV valve causing a hole to be blown in one of the rear pistons or something, and the fix is relocating the PCV feed location on the intake to somewhere near the center. Does anyone know anything about this, should I be concerned? Also, if anybody knows the weak points of the brick generation (2wd specific), and fixes if there are any? I know all the old Ford trucks had a recall for the cruise control starting fires. I think it has an E40D trans, because it has an OD OFF button/light up thing (haven't tried it yet). And my dad was wondering about the dual fuel tanks, is there anything I need to do to ready the valve or whatever switches it over. This truck has obviously sat, only getting 5k in 7 years, so who knows what condition the other tank and fuel is in, if it even works. Thanks.

[BigMerc96]

If I remember right, those things have 3 fuel pumps, 1 in each tank and 1 on the frame, but it may just have the in-tank pumps. Either way, there's the switch on the dash (duh) that switches which pump and sending unit gets power, as well as controls a valve on the frame rail that switches the fuel line. It is not at all uncommon to find that the valve is stuck and/or broken and/or one of the pumps is bad, its slightly unusual to see one with both tanks working still.

That PCV thing is new to me. Never heard that. I wouldn't think the truck 5.0 is much different than a SEFI Panther 5.0 aside from having a taller upper intake and maybe a different cam for better torque.

Wheel bearings in a 2wd truck are stupid easy. Its exactly like a box Panther or any other older RWD car/truck. If they are a bit loose, it could be as simple as cleaning and re-packing them and resetting the preload on the spindle nut. Then again, the bearings are very cheap at ~$40 for both inners and outers and grease seals so it may be worthwhile to just replace them. My neighbor's old 2WD '00 F150 went 185k on the original front bearings. He called me over because he couldn't get the preload right after putting new front rotors on, he had already repacked them. Pull them out, the rollers were about 1/2 the diameter they are supposed to be so I yelled at him for being cheap then drove him to the store for new ones..

Make sure you inspect the rear leaf spring shackles. That gen up to the '04 redesign love to snap the rear spring shackles. Thats common to those trucks, Rangers, Econolines, and 1st/2nd gen Exploders as they all use the same shackle design. The shackle and sometimes its frame bracket rots away, but both are easily sourced, its just not a fun job replacing them.

[sly]

I couldn't remember if the regular cab long bed had the 2-piece. I know the extended cab regular bed 93 I had used a 2-piece.

[BigMerc96]

FWIW, my buddy's 300-I6 powered '90 standard cab, long bed, 5-speed 2WD truck had a single rather long driveshaft. I know some did get the 2-piece drveshafts, but IDK in what configurations.

[gadget73]

Someone did post a TSB about re-locating the PCV. I don't think it was a burn a hole in the piston issue, but apparently it made the plugs foul more quickly or something.

Looks pretty solid overall. A lot of those things are like swiss cheese at this point in time.

Also, LOL at the "not an ambulance, you're going to explode" sticker.

[79lincolnlover]

This body style looks even better with tu-tone paint.

[sxcpotatoes]

Looking at Rock Auto for U-joints, I guess they have 2 piece or 3 piece shafts, Sly. I dunno. Will worry about it when the deal is done. I have no idea if the A/C works, can't really test it without a special machine, or at least a gauge kit when the temperature outside is 22 & lower.

[a_d_a_m]

For an Ohio truck, it looks damn good!

[His Royal Ghostliness]

E4OD truck, so 1-piece driveshaft. Takes "1330" U-joints, use Dana-Spicer if you can, the rest are junk.

Front wheel bearings are like a box Panther. Use only brand name bearings - Timken, Koyo, SKF, etc. Synthetic grease is nice.

The 3-pump setup was last used in '89, this runs two Panther-like high pressure pumps, one per tank.

If driven in winter the exhaust behind the cat will only last 2 seasons. The more stainless you use, the longer it will be trouble-free. Factory-replacement aftermarket pipes are shit, same with the mufflers. Have good exhaust shop run at least 2.5" stainless from the cat back, 3" would be better - either way the 302 will notice the difference, and so will you.

No cruise recall on this, that's a '92-up thing - tis uses a vacuum dump valve instead of a brake line pressure switch for cruise disengage backup, just like a box Panther, so nothing to leak and short out and catch fire. There is a recall on the ignition switch tho, again just like a box Panther (same switch actually IIRC).

E4OD needs a cooler. This is a 2nd production year E4OD, so it can also make use of a shift kit. Torque converter has shit for lockup clutch, so keep that in mind. The dash switch just shuts OD off, you still have 1-3 and converter lockup in 3rd.

Oil pan gasket is a bitch of a job, requires unbolting the mounts from the frame and lifting the engine till the trans hits the floor of the cab, Y-pipe may also need removal. Might as well install a new oil pan at the time if the factory one is questionable, Spectra-brand ones are made in Canada and are good.

Panther non-JBL radio/cassette unit is direct bolt in, if you want 4 speakers. You'll have to run your own wires for the extra pair of speakers tho. '92-'97 truck will have the factory setup for actually installing said speakers, it's all in the B-pillar interior trim pieces. Or you can cut holes in the plastic you got now, and use 6.5" or smaller speakers.

No inherent weak points in that truck, other than the dash will develop cracks if you drill holes in it and use self-tapping screws in them, use machine thread bolts and nuts instead and all will be well.

[sxcpotatoes]

No inherent weak points in that truck, other than the dash will develop cracks if you drill holes in it and use self-tapping screws in them, use machine thread bolts and nuts instead and all will be well.

Thanks a bunch, mangs! I think the non-JBL radio cassette is already in it, it has four or five twisty knobs. It looks just like the stock panther 88-91 head unit (Bass, Treb, Fade, & Balance in whatever order) The Fade to rear just makes the radio quieter until it's silent. Volume bottom left, twists from off-on, push for clock.

Oh, and I GOT KICK ON BRIGHTS! I thought my Jeep project was going to be my first vehicle with kick on brights, but then this fell into my lap. I know the switches can need periodic replacement because wet/salt exposure. Should I have something done about the rust starting at the rear wheel wells? I could probably have my mom drop it with my uncle down in WV before the end of the year if I have the cash for the body work (after home repairs).

My old neighbor has a '92-94 that the front frame busted on, I think it's still parked in his back yard. This may give me a good source for some parts (at a minimum, I remember he had good newer tires on it, the ones on this are dated 0708).

I did hear a water flowing noise in the dash (prob. heater core) when I drove it home after the oil change. I don't think it's leaking at all, it was just really noticeable with the radio off. Hopefully that's nothing to be concerned about.

I may try to switch the tank with the key in the accessory position so it doesn't pump to the motor, just to check the level for any gas that may be back there.

[sxcpotatoes]

AND in googling around I found this really awesome step by step walkthrough of the complete fuel system setup, wiring, pumps, valves, lines etc for '84-'96 F-150/Bronco here: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/950180