Mine are part number 60269. At ride height, they touch, but just. I am still at stock height though. They are supposed to be left at 5psi to keep them snug and prevent rubbing holes into them. I leave mine at 8 just because I don't check them when the temps drop.
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kishy's 1991 Grand Marquis
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Last night, filled the axle with 80W90. Then turned the car around and changed the engine oil and filter.
Out came the Rotella T6 5W40. In went the Rotella T6 15W40. Motorcraft filter. 8207km change interval.
Studied the condition of my drain plugs. Recall this was a new oil pan recently...8207km ago, in fact.
Decided to change from copper washers to the steel washers with molded rubber on them. The copper washers encourage (well, me at least) to overtighten the plugs and that's not good.
I had transferred a magnet from one of the old, to one of the new drain plugs. At this oil change, it was covered in a very fine slurry of metal. I do not have much of a point of reference for how good or bad this is because I don't think any of my others have magnets (not for engine oil), and it's been so long since I was doing routine maintenance on this one that I don't recall if this was a pattern or not. I will note that this is not a quiet engine - for much of my time with it, it has sounded tired. One of the most revealing tells was when I took off the noisy smog pump but the noise didn't change. This is all merely observation, and part of the ongoing process of accepting that nothing is forever.
It was a cool evening and the initial noise on startup (routinely, not just the first start after the change) with the 15W40 seems maybe just the slightest bit more pronounced than it was with the 5W40. But I also drove the wheels off it since the last oil change so it may be meaningfully more worn, too. Cause/effect.
I'm sure most of it is in my head but the car felt smoother on the highway, between the rear end stuff and the oil change. It's not a bad car for NVH at all but it was transmitting something into the interior before that seems to be gone now. Oh, and the brakes are buttery smooth again, not the slightest hint of undue grabbiness. So if nothing else, cleaning them helped, and the re-seal job should prevent that coming back.
As an aside for the math and/or currency nerds:
Canadian vendors sell a 5L jug. 64.99 CAD = 13 CAD per L = 14.69 tax-in
US vendors sell a 3.78L jug. 24.98 USD = 6.61 USD per L = 7.01 tax-in = 9.65 CAD
Bought two 3.78L jugs from Walmart US via the website for store pickup since I was going to Detroit anyway. The in-store price is higher, IIRC.
Originally posted by sly View PostMine are part number 60269. At ride height, they touch, but just. I am still at stock height though. They are supposed to be left at 5psi to keep them snug and prevent rubbing holes into them. I leave mine at 8 just because I don't check them when the temps drop.
My ride height is below stock but there are a number of factors here. My body mounts are all super squished, particularly the rear ones (seems like the rear ones always are trashed first on these cars). The springs that went in seemed to position everything about how I wanted, which was mild mild mild rake with the front slightly lower - but very nearly level, using the rocker panel bright trim as the reference point for this. But any sort of meaningful weight brings it down below where I want it. Without clicking back a couple pages, I'm sort of theorizing that maybe the sedan cargo coils (which it had before) plus the Air Lift bags might do what I want. Sit a little lower to begin with, plus the option to stiffen as required.Last edited by kishy; 10-16-2024, 01:54 PM.
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wow, basically a 50% price penalty just to get oil across the border.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postwow, basically a 50% price penalty just to get oil across the border.
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still kinda nuts.
I seem to remember reading something about why you shouldn't use diesel oil in a gas engine a while back, something about the additive packages not dealing with the same problems since the combustion byproducts are different but I don't honestly remember the fine points. My diesel gets diesel oil, the others get gas engine oil.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Poststill kinda nuts.
I seem to remember reading something about why you shouldn't use diesel oil in a gas engine a while back, something about the additive packages not dealing with the same problems since the combustion byproducts are different but I don't honestly remember the fine points. My diesel gets diesel oil, the others get gas engine oil.
My Cars:
-1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
-1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser
-1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
-1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
-1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)
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When they make a 40-weight oil that isn't marketed as a diesel oil, I'll gladly do that. Until then, Rotella it is, as long as this one can't keep its oil pressure up when hot, which isn't likely to fix itself.
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Originally posted by kishy View Post
Originally posted by sly View Post
Mine are part number 60269. At ride height, they touch, but just. I am still at stock height though. They are supposed to be left at 5psi to keep them snug and prevent rubbing holes into them. I leave mine at 8 just because I don't check them when the temps drop.
60769 maybe? That's what I've got.
My ride height is below stock but there are a number of factors here. My body mounts are all super squished, particularly the rear ones (seems like the rear ones always are trashed first on these cars). The springs that went in seemed to position everything about how I wanted, which was mild mild mild rake with the front slightly lower - but very nearly level, using the rocker panel bright trim as the reference point for this. But any sort of meaningful weight brings it down below where I want it. Without clicking back a couple pages, I'm sort of theorizing that maybe the sedan cargo coils (which it had before) plus the Air Lift bags might do what I want. Sit a little lower to begin with, plus the option to stiffen as required.
Airlift is a pain to figure out whats what since they do not publish all the specs for all their kits or bags. Royal pita trying to figure out what bags are in some app specific kits (I've been looking at ones that come up on the local auction houses to try and figure out what other applications may use the same bag).
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Uh, ok, so the 15W40 has to go.
This engine does not sound happy at all, whereas it sounded quite happy with the 5W40.
It also spends considerably more time with my oil pressure gauge sitting around 50psi even when moderately warm, which tells me the relief is probably...well, relieving.
I'm not sure that I fully understand the problem since at 60-ish degrees F it isn't cold enough outside (as I understand it, and "on paper") to really be making use of the "15" part of the number, but this engine is making a lot of valvetrain noise, even after it's up to temp. Either it has coincidentally worn a great deal more at the same time as changing the oil, or it's having issues getting oil in sufficient quantities into the heads.
Car's parked until I sort this out. Thanks to some changes in how I insure my vehicles, they're literally all legally 'on the road' at the moment so minus known mechanical problems, I can just pick whichever and go, which is nice.
edit:
I paid ludicrous Canadian pricing to pick up a 5L bottle of 5W40 Rotella T6, which is what it had previously.
Drained the 160km 15W40 back into its clean original bottle with a clean funnel, should be fine to use for topping up various cars I guess.
With 5W40 back in it, the engine's previous noise level has returned and all seems well.
I also greased the u-joints, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm. Everything looked and felt about right.
Did discover a rust hole in the driver floor pan. Appears to have originated on the inside, ate away the steel, then the undercoating gave out revealing the problem. It's not enough to present an actual safety issue but certainly requires attention. I'm sure salty boot water from winter driving the car soaked into the carpet and had a fair bit to do with this developing.Last edited by kishy; 10-20-2024, 07:49 PM.
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I concur on the 15w-40, or 20w-50. No gas engine I have is happy with that stuff. 10w-40, sure my old worn stuff likes that. The 15w+ makes the valve train unhappy.
I am running Quaker State "Euro" 5w-40 in the S10 and it likes it.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
GMN Box Panther History
Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
Box Panther Production Numbers
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Originally posted by Tiggie View PostI concur on the 15w-40, or 20w-50. No gas engine I have is happy with that stuff. 10w-40, sure my old worn stuff likes that. The 15w+ makes the valve train unhappy.
I am running Quaker State "Euro" 5w-40 in the S10 and it likes it.
Rotella ended up being my answer to this particular problem because it was readily available, full synthetic, and had the lower 'cold weather' weight while still having higher-than-30 warm weather weight. I knew I was about to make the engine work rather hard for quite a while, so an option that would keep my pressure up when thoroughly hot, and stand up to abuse seemed to make the most sense.
Originally posted by friskyfrankie View PostI always use what the car calls for unless there is an extremely good reason not to.
Lifters collapsing when you're stuck in gridlock for an hour...been there, done that, no thanks.
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Originally posted by friskyfrankie View PostI always use what the car calls for unless there is an extremely good reason not to.Originally posted by kishy View PostZero PSI of oil pressure when hot is exactly such a reason, and the low-output 302 is well known for it.
Lifters collapsing when you're stuck in gridlock for an hour...been there, done that, no thanks.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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