Yeah run that turd until it blows up I say! If you got it running, that's good enough. Once it starts getting driven expect all kinds of shit to start leaking!
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kishy's 1985 Country Squire
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postfor Duraspark, yes. For TFI it just doesn't have any +12v without it on the 85. In 86 they just tied the "crank" input on the TFI module to the start wire so its powered both ways. Sometime prior to 85 it was wired that way too. I honestly have NFC what they were doing with it most of the time.
The fuel pump is normally powered via a resistor in order to operate it at "normal speed". The fuel pump is given full battery voltage only during cranking.
I've had this harness apart in my hands and yet I can't positively place that terminal at the end of the fuel pump wire. Oh well.
It does mean seeing voltage drop at the fuel pump when running except cranking is normal and expected...
This could be done via the ignition switch but the EVTM really makes it look like it goes through a wire to the starter relay, and the only way to do that is the 'I' terminal (or the main switched stud for the big cable to the starter).Last edited by kishy; 09-24-2017, 11:06 PM.
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they resistor the fuel pump? What? That seems amazingly stupid. You'd need a big ass resistor that chugs out a lot of heat to make that work. Can't see the point of it, its got a fuel pressure return line and a regulator to handle that.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postthey resistor the fuel pump? What? That seems amazingly stupid. You'd need a big ass resistor that chugs out a lot of heat to make that work. Can't see the point of it, its got a fuel pressure return line and a regulator to handle that.
On the Start/Ignition page, the diagram shows the starter relay having a second switched output terminal. That seems to be the I terminal.
It indicates a fuse link hanging off it, pk/bk wire off that numbered circuit 787, then going to the EEC-IV page.
Following it on that page, circuit 787 comes onto the page from a "hot in start" label, splices together with the end of a "resistance wire" that goes back to a "hot at all times" source (so the splice is hot at all times via resistance wire, and hot in start without resistance).
The pk/bk wire continues to the fuel pump relay where it is the switched power source to the fuel pump.
Accordingly, the fuel pump is powered via resistance wire except when cranking.
Weird.
I've found a lot of references online to them doing that to the dual-pump CFI Fox cars (to slow down the lift pump?) but I really don't know what the hell they'd be doing it here for. It's entirely possible the writers of the EVTMs mixed things up and pieces of circuits from one car end up wrongfully in another.
Certainly, I understand why you would want to boost it with the full battery voltage during a start attempt. The question is why reduce it to begin with.
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Originally posted by kishy View PostWeird thing is I don't think either the original harness, nor the '85 Vic harness in my Lincoln now had that wire. And the wagon will start and run with it disconnected...
Originally posted by Birdofprey View PostJust got caught up on the progress up to this point, very cool. Keep it up.
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Originally posted by TecNickal View Post...Make sure your tailgate check strap Is still there...
Am I missing a piece?
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I seem to recall a hinged rod thing being normal. I want to say its only on the driver's side since the gate has to swing that way.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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^Yes you want one of those.
Otherwise, when the tailgate is dropped down like a tailgate it'll over extend and bend the sheet metal. Strap stops it from hitting the bumper etc.-Nick M.
Columbia, SC
66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD
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Well, apparently I'm completely oblivious...
Check strap: check! Oddly, considering the condition of everything else, it's intact...
I also picked up a cute little triple gauge set with the wagon in mind. Typical 2" gauge shown for scale.
I think I spotted a good windshield donor at the junkyard, going back with the tools for it next weekend hoping it's good...
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Box Panthers are CAKE to do a windshield on in comparison to some more modern vehicles. Not really much of any cowling to remove.-Nick M.
Columbia, SC
66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD
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Originally posted by TecNickal View PostBox Panthers are CAKE to do a windshield on in comparison to some more modern vehicles. Not really much of any cowling to remove.
I have the Harbor Freight piano wire thing, and two suction cup handles to lift the glass with. I've watched videos and read stuff, it seems straightforward enough, but I'm concerned about the cowl area and all the wiper junk that's in the way.
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I have pulled many box windshields. The top and sides are easy to cut, the bottom NOT! Some cars they only used an inch wide strip of sealer, some three inches wide! I hope you get lucky! Some junkyards will charge you if you break it! Best if its warm outside and use the wire type kit with two handles to cut it out. WagonMan89 Colony Park
90 Colony Park
70 HEMI Daytona Convertible
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Originally posted by WagonMan View PostI have pulled many box windshields. The top and sides are easy to cut, the bottom NOT! Some cars they only used an inch wide strip of sealer, some three inches wide! I hope you get lucky! Some junkyards will charge you if you break it! Best if its warm outside and use the wire type kit with two handles to cut it out. WagonMan
Not that the plan is to shatter a bunch of windshields, of course.
Come to think of it I've never seen one that had been pulled at all, but that's probably because Safelite does it installed for only $100 more than the price of the the glass used. But in my quest to be cheapy cheap I'm willing to be frustrated for a while.
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