My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

[Brown_Muscle]

Good to hear you like the torque converter! Mine just came today lol.

Ohh cool, was the wiring similar to a 3g? I imagine there are higher output 6gs that could bolt right in. 180+ amps. Might be the new thing to do since 3Gs are getting old

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Good to hear you like the torque converter! Mine just came today lol.

Ohh cool, was the wiring similar to a 3g? I imagine there are higher output 6gs that could bolt right in. 180+ amps. Might be the new thing to do since 3Gs are getting old

Which stall rating did you go with? We’re you preferable to the 2500 RPM stall, or something else?

Wiring is very much the same, just a different connector, and one less wire. Essentially the plug just has the yellow sense wire and green/red lamp wire. Given the install is very similar to the 3G, it wouldn’t be a hard thing to do if someone opted for it. I figure the only folks that would be out of luck are large case folks that had an externally regulated unit, since I don’t think Ford made a 6G that would fit a bracket like that.

[mcb82gt]

Seems to work fine now. If anyone is wondering why I opted for the 6G over the 3G considering it's rated at 110 amps vs the 130 amps 3G can offer, and its the fact the 6G design works a bit better at low speed for improved charging. I swapped from a 3G to a 6G on my '97 with good results, so I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to do it here.

What did you use for the charge wire and fuse? Looks like a nice install.

[87gtVIC]

Just guessing here. Looks like the factory ford taurus charge wire...Distinct color...been there did that.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

What did you use for the charge wire and fuse? Looks like a nice install.

Just guessing here. Looks like the factory ford taurus charge wire...Distinct color...been there did that.

87gtVIC nailed it. I installed it when I first put the 3G on the car before I even officially owned it. I do need to go back and re-loom and clean up the cable routing as it goes. The old loom cracks like crazy and it looks bad.

Drove the car today and verified with the battery tester output and function. Puts out a good 14.2v fully warm at idle and only showed about 9.3mV of ripple, considerably more acceptable number to the ~103mV when the 3G failed.

[87gtVIC]

Did you use the Taurus Fuse? If so how did you incorporate it? Direct to solenoid, battery or a fuse holder then solenoid or battery?

[87GrandMarq]

How would a 6g be wired in? I’m thinking of making the switch once my 2g dies.


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[87gtVIC]

How would a 6g be wired in? I’m thinking of making the switch once my 2g dies.


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One large charge cable with mega fuse

New voltage regulator plug. One wire to charge post and another to the red/green wire that exists on your current voltage regulator.

Disconnect old charge cables from everything.

[87GrandMarq]

Cool seems easy enough. When mine finally takes a dump I’ll post on here if I need more help. Thanks.


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[Kodachrome Wolf]

Did you use the Taurus Fuse? If so how did you incorporate it? Direct to solenoid, battery or a fuse holder then solenoid or battery?

Yeah, it was the Taurus mega fuse. 175 amp deal, IIRC. I went up to a Vulcan car, and just kinda started yanking and pulled the whole thing right up to the fuse block, then took the mega fuse with the cable. I did the "ugly" install and put a bolt through the cable end and one eyelet of the fuse, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The other fuse eyelet was just jammed onto the solenoid stud.

Admittedly, I'll probably redo that setup with a proper fuse holder when the Aero fuse block goes in. The cable install was done in that fashion out of convenience and functionality, but not appearance. The only thing I will say that I prefer doing in my charge cable routing that some might argue against is I have always run my cables between the gap of the engine and radiator support, then across the support, and then to the solenoid. When TecNickal and I fitted the Explorer engine in his '89, I tossed a 3G on his car and ran it the same way. I used a Taurus alternator on his, so I chopped down his two regulator wires down a fair bit and trimmed the loom so it looked more appropriate since the regulator comes off the side instead of the top.

[Brown_Muscle]

Which stall rating did you go with? We’re you preferable to the 2500 RPM stall, or something else?

Wiring is very much the same, just a different connector, and one less wire. Essentially the plug just has the yellow sense wire and green/red lamp wire. Given the install is very similar to the 3G, it wouldn’t be a hard thing to do if someone opted for it. I figure the only folks that would be out of luck are large case folks that had an externally regulated unit, since I don’t think Ford made a 6G that would fit a bracket like that.

Yeah I got one that’s rated at 2400-2600

That’s good to know! I just ordered a large case 3g

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Got started on that underhood fuse box job. I've already partially vented my frustrations regarding some of the brilliance to the design of the fuse links in the "What Are You Doing?" thread, simply because it's so strange that so many wires are all sharing the same darn color, but all power their own respective circuits. I get maybe from the standpoint it's to indicate, "Hey, this is constant hot 12v power!", but it's not indicative to what it's powering.

Anyway, I've been using 87gtVIC's photos to get the most mileage out of this since the original thread had the photos nuked out of it.

I had to get creative to rule out some circuits that I couldn't prove out under the hood:


I managed to get lucky a few times on the massive bundle of yellow cables. Had to determine who went to the trailer tow, defroster, and air suspension relay circuit. Similar to 87gtVIC, I had a random wire not labeled anywhere, but mine was a thinner gauge yellow cable.

I've also probably made a mistake in fuse box selection. I wound up with an early Aero Town Car box, which is fairly chonky. I have already configured it to my specifications. I just need to re-label the inner lid. I've got all my circuits written down in the back of my EVTM.


I'm doing the smart thing and moving the horn relay over into the box, and I'm also putting my headlight and e-fan relays in there too.

About 75% filled in.


I've got the other relays and the red base already fitted. I've just got to get more 30 amp fuses. I've already added extensions to most of the wires to get them to clear the bottom of the box, however I need to get some heavier gauge wires for four remaining circuits. Also need more wire loom.

Fitment in the car is gonna be the next fun part. There's an area I can land it where it'll be right up on the brace bar, but clear of the battery hold down and the hood. Definitely will have to remove that bar to open the lid since this one is hinged. I've also got to make a bracket to hold it level on the fender liner. The only thing I already know I don't like about where it needs to sit gets it all up on the A/C lines. As long as I've got some abrasion protection over there, it shouldn't really be an issue though.

I'll be much happier once everything is wired in, it works, and I never try this job again.

[Brown_Muscle]

Lot of work, but worth it in the end. I’m interested to see your placement of the box and what you come up with for a bracket. I hope to do this myself some day

[87gtVIC]

Its definitely worth the hassle.

Cleans things up nicely under the hood, allows you to add and modify existing wiring like placing the horn, headlights and fan relay inside and easily get back up and rubbing if a circuit has a hiccup. No tracking town a fuseible link..just a fuse.

Kinda annoying if you have to remove the fender brace to access the lid but not annoying if you never have an issue. Honestly how often down one even open up a underhood fuse box in their newer cars?

I think I did it once in my mercedes to swap a cig lighter to switched power instead of constant (it has that option) and never since.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Finally got the darn fuse box patched in today.



And it's about 98% functional. Something is not right with the horn relay, since it engages (but does not sound the horns) when power is applied. I didn't fuss with that circuitry when I was re-pinning the blocks since it appeared to be correct. Essentially I was left with two wires coming off that relay, which is one to the horn pad to ground the circuit, and the other for output to the horns themselves, which those ground to the chassis.

Only thing I could imagine I did was somehow mislabel the two wires........................................... maybe I answered that right now. Horns = Ground on the trigger side means that relay is gonna engage and mashing the horn pad grounds the circuit and blows the fuse. I'll check that tomorrow. Definitely too late now to try and be honking the horn.

Otherwise, it hasn't caught fire yet, none of the other fuses have popped, and everything seems to work okay. The headlights and e-fan relays were moved into the housing and those seem to work just fine.

As far as mounting this one went, I was very lazy, got some rigid exhaust strapping, bent two legs into a shape where it kept the box level and then attached the strapping through preexisting holes in the fender liner. It can't move much like that, and when the brace is down, it literally cannot move since the brace sits right on it.