My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

[gadget73]

I remember going through the EGR / VSS thing on my car. Tried for a long time to figure out why it never worked like it should, asked questions, got nothing but crickets. Finally figured it out, basically I connected the VSS to see what it would do because I was totally out of ideas. Posted my findings, and of course got that one smarmy dickbag responding "well of course its required, only an idiot doesn't know that, blah blah blah".

the specific problem I had was the EGR wouldn't open when driving. It would pass a self-test. I don't remember if it set codes though. When I fixed the wiring, the EGR went full open just off-idle. That was a sticky EVR. A snort of WD40 in the solenoid got that to behave, but I did replace it. Now the EGR works and doesn't make the engine stumble.

[87gtVIC]

Found this...looks like the radio you had..



from this ebay add: https://www.ebay.com/itm/27470432844...EAAOSwpe5gPnkC

[Mainemantom]

I have one of those radios from an 84 LTC. I bought the LTC at a salvage auction around 1989. That was the first thing I got out of it. Stereo has been in storage since. I should sell it.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Every time I start a project...






Anyway, back at the radio project again with the analog tuner AM/FM Stereo model. This one works fine, no weird shutoffs or anything, and after working the balance slider a fair bit, that seems to have started working without fuss. Of course though, this radio is the common ground style, so there's gonna be some weirdness going on as I magic stuff together. After salvaging the connectors I swapped onto the electronic unit, I matched everything accordingly for output based on how things were wired originally, save for the fact that all the return wires travel to a central point.

It makes noise like one desires from a radio, but some of the speakers sound great, but some sound muddy. The door speakers had not worked until a few years ago, and upon swapping polarity today, found I had them both wired backwards. That cleaned up easy. Dash speakers seem fine, so that's nice. For some reason, the right rear speaker isn't going at all. The left rear speaker also has a muddy tone, but does not clear up with swapping polarity. With the system switched off, both sides do not show an open circuit according to my multimeter, but I'm wondering if one could inject power on both sides of the speaker and get some function? I have to look more at that one to verify that the RR+ is not actually also feeding the LR.

Hopefully this unnecessarily obtuse project comes to a conclusion soon.


Moving away from the radio topic, the craptastic patch job on the H-pipe has failed again (didn't expect magic there), a hanger broke away, and the mufflers sound like more rusty bits are ratting around inside... No more piecemeal jobs. Time to do this system right, and with improvements in mind. The only non-HO thing that hasn't been fitted have been headers. Seems like a great time to do that since I've ordered a Mustang down/H-pipe with the O2 bungs. Just need to order 2 Mark VII O2 sensors for the harness length. I'll have a shop take care of fabricating up the intermediate sections and possibly redoing the over-the-axle sections if they're not suitable. For mufflers, I'm thinking Magnaflows, but I've got to determine a type that's going to have a nice tone, but not cause drone.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Rechecked wiring out the back of the radio, yup, I managed to put the rear output feeds to a single speaker. Flip flopped the connection around and it makes considerably better sound on both sides.

It's definitely not as odd as the Electronic AM/FM model, but at least its reliable, and still looks right.



I have managed to retain aux support, but not in the "correct" way. After going over the schematics Gadget was kind enough to provide, I wasn't trusting myself to attempt to properly de-solder enough to separate the necessary components and get it back together again. I opted to sample an antenna feed inline FM adapter with adjustable gain. It works quite well and provides quality playback. It's on a switch and essentially kills any FM bands from passing through, save for the higher stations past 106.1 FM, and even those are static-y and faint. It locks strongly on 87.9 FM where I have the selector switch set (can opt for that frequency or 88.3), and if you tune off of that band, you just get dead air until you turn the adapter off.

I think I'll get another one of these adapters for my roommate's Town Car since he's been using one of those FM adapters you just plug into your phone, and it's pretty bad, especially while traveling and you start picking up conflicting bands. I cannot see that really being an issue with this device.

[slack]

The analog radio looks good! I think I missed in the thread, where was that radio from?

2.) The radio doesn't like the heat. It'll work for a minute or two, and then it's out. Doesn't matter how much you fiddle with it, it won't go. Shame since it looks kinda neat, but I like my tunes, so I'll have to find a replacement.

The analog stock radio in my 78 does the same thing during the hottest months of summer. FM takes a crap when it's super hot out but works fine for the rest of the year. AM seems to still work though.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

The analog radio looks good! I think I missed in the thread, where was that radio from?


The analog stock radio in my 78 does the same thing during the hottest months of summer. FM takes a crap when it's super hot out but works fine for the rest of the year. AM seems to still work though.

Both the electronic and analog radios were eBay specials.

[gadget73]

I've now got a pair of tempermental circa 1990 radios on my bench. The caps are visibly leaking in both. FM went out once the temperature warmed up some. Its just a thing that happens. I just put in the order for all the parts to overhaul both.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Just got an e-mail from Jegs, the Mustang down pipes I ordered have finally shipped.

Guess its time to figure out this job and get the right parts so I can call the exhaust shop to get all the important parts made, since the most I'm gonna do is fit the headers and down pipes. I'm particularly bad at exhaust work for things after that point, and I know this is gonna need custom pipe work done, since I want to retain factory style exits after the rear axle.

How much work is particularly needed to make factory style Mustang shorty headers work? I know plenty have been fitted to these cars, and I'm not against dimpling a set for clearances. Outside of just getting a cheap set of used Mustang ones, I've seen Flowtech and BBK ones that look similar to factory.

Also, any good suggestions on mufflers that aren't gonna drone? I've been looking at Magnaflows lately. The current mufflers have got rusty bits rattling around, so they're good as gone.

I know I need to order O2 sensors for a Mark VII so the wires will reach.


Unrelated to the exhaust project, Nick found a set of turbines at the junkyard. One has a little curb rash, but they all need refinishing just from age and exposure. I'm thinking sand the rough edge and try and true that up, along with a sanding on the face to remove the old clear coat, then polishing and clear coating them. I might also consider just doing a full paint job instead with the argent silver finish. I do need to source a set of pre-'88 caps though.

[87GrandMarq]

I have a set of eBay special shorties that I ran on my 87 to get it down the street once lol. They fit fine. If you want them they’re yours for shipping. I don’t need them anymore.


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[gadget73]

I'm really starting to suspect the drone source is the Mustang front parts, not so much the mufflers. I keep thinking I ought to have the exhaust re-done on my car yet again. it drones to the point where I've basically not driven it in like 3 years. Peak drone volume is the speed of all the local roads and it just gives me a massive headache to drive it for any length of time these days.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I have a set of eBay special shorties that I ran on my 87 to get it down the street once lol. They fit fine. If you want them they’re yours for shipping. I don’t need them anymore.


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If they'll fit factory style Mustang H-pipes, I'll gladly put them to use. Hit me with a PM and we can take care of shipping and payment details.

[jaywish]

What mufflers are you using? Are you running the vibration dampers? I always wondered if headers, which are thin walled compared to heavy cast manifolds are any louder.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

What mufflers are you using? Are you running the vibration dampers? I always wondered if headers, which are thin walled compared to heavy cast manifolds are any louder.

The car still has the old factory-esque stuff bolted on. I am running what looks like Walker or some basic muffler presently since they came to me with the H-pipe. They're quiet, which is not a problem. The vibration dampeners are fitted between the converters and H-pipe.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Man, it doesn't feel like the 4th was almost three weeks ago, time seems to be doing a good job of slipping past me.

Obviously recent adventures with the car included tossing on a '83 or '84 Country Squire tailgate with Nick that weekend along with addressing a dew wipe concern.


What an absolute bear it is trying to hang one of those. That was a project that I kinda expected to be a one day thing, that definitely stretched into a two day thing trying to get it lined up well enough to close properly. Both hinges have similar slop, except this one does its drop almost immediately upon opening it as compared to the other one that would give you several inches, then sag and make really cool noises. This one is at least quiet and smooth. I suspect the striker "bushing" (read: electrical tape) might need to be replaced with the real thing since the two way function worked once and didn't afterwords, but I noticed a deep gouge in the tape. I recall the original one had the same issue until some more tape was wrapped on the striker.

This one also has some rust concerns about as equally bad as my old gate, so it got rust treatment all along the bottom, and will get some seam sealer in a few spots, then painted in the jambs. The inside received FluidFilm along the inside bottom and on critical moving parts, like the regulator. The window guide slides all got well greased, and physical glass slides were also addressed. I did cut an access hole for the window motor, but made a "service panel" by cutting a larger sized plate out of the scrap gate. I'm going to drill four holes and using tapping screws to make service easier for any future endeavors. Doesn't sound pretty, but the old gate had a "flap" cut instead and it looked bad. The only real component that needs to be re-installed is the power lock actuator; the bushings were fighting me and I had no desire to bother with it at that moment.


I also decided to address another got dang transmission leak, because of course it's leaking again. Where? Looked like the cork pan gasket was all damp after I brake cleaned much of the surfaces around it and there was fluid dribble towards the bellhousing. I had noticed a very small patch of fluid before I left on the 4th, and when I returned home, the rear glass was spattered with transmission fluid droplets. It was not losing enough fluid to really make a worrisome note on the dipstick, but I'd like for this AOD to stop ejecting fluid. I did note that the pan looked different when I got it back from the shop, and I suspect it was slightly warped towards the front.

I opted to toss on a 4R70W pan (with drain plug) and rigid, re-usable type gasket. I am well aware there's a bolt hole that doesn't line up on the AOD, but if I see a leak from that corner, I'll drain it, remove the pan and drill a hole that's lined up properly, and use a replacement rubber gasket for an AOD. I will note that at the moment, it isn't leaking. On that note, I'll also mention my '97 is missing two bolts to its pan, and it seems to have been that way out of the factory since the time I drained it personally, the little bobber was still inside the pan and no witness marks on the pan where bolts may have been. It also doesn't leak. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯



I also took the time to find some neat info about AOD filters, and that given this pan is deeper, one can use the 4WD type filter that has the "snorkel", so I opted to give that one a spin. Reminds me of how the one for the 4R70W is styled. It does fit just fine in this application as reported.



I've got to get more fluid though. I had 5 quarts of ATF, and apparently that wasn't enough. Following the correct fluid check procedure, it's still about 2 to 2-1/2 quarts low. Guess I'll get some more tomorrow. I'll also continue to watch that corner and make a future note if it does leak.